Three were the main references used by Andreas Kronthaler before designing his Fall/Winter 2026 collection for Vivienne Westwood, a lineup of over 40 looks crafted to embody joy and establish continuity, despite the complexity of ongoing grief and the state of the world. Dame Vivienne Westwood died three years ago, in December, leaving a legacy that Kronthaler has been committed to honouring ever since.
Rooted in theatricality and – good – chaos, Kronthaler’s F/W 26 mood board was firstly inspired by German and French screen actor Romy Schneider, known as one of the greatest of all time. Schneider’s fierceness and eclectic acting choices were used as a tool to convey emotion through the season’s pieces.
Still in the cinematic universe, Kronthaler was equally inspired by 1972’s The Canterbury Tales, Pier Paolo Pasolini’s film adaptation of the namesake medieval poem by English author Geoffrey Chaucer. The film's costume design, developed by Italian costume and production designer Danilo Donati, was crucial to conveying the show’s intentional smorgasbord aesthetic. Finally, Chaucer’s literary work also served as the final piece for Kronthaler’s trio of muses, adding a touch of historical humour to the final result.
With the three elements combined, the broad collection had Kronthaler’s characteristic eroticism always present, teamed with Westwood’s classic 1980s punk flair. Checkered and tartan prints were seen on wide-shouldered coats, corseted dresses, and skirt suits. Masculine and feminine traditional codes were purposefully blurred, with ballet flats, stockings, and garter belts garnishing both women's and menswear looks.
Corsetry work, striped gowns, and cinched waists, yet still relevant, were a secondary focus of the collection, which mostly featured loose structures over rigidity. Voluminous shapes with open seams and drapes, as well as slouchy footwear and vibrancy in colour, led the way. The playful aspect came through the use of headpieces, often oversized and purposefully mismatched with the looks.
A bridal ivory satin skirt suit closed the show, carried by a model with yellow-polished nails and smudged red lipstick – in case anyone has forgotten, there’s nothing strict about being a Westwood bride. With a radish-red bouquet in hand, she had an ultra-tall cylindrical hat crowning her head. Her name is Vivienne Rohner. In the end, we always go back to Vivienne.
Words by Ketlyn Araujo
