showreport

BOTTEGA VENETA SS24

Through the direction of Matthieu Blazy, Bottega Veneta has become one of the most consistently exhilarating luxury brands. Its Spring Summer 2024 collection proved that exact point, rooting itself in the book “On the Road” by Jack Kerouac. The inspiration was clear. Blazy intertwined classic house codes with aesthetics from all over the world, keeping enough distance to avoid cultural appropriation accusations while creating a diversified yet cohesive collection.

 From fringed leather dresses to the extremely shareable pom pom dresses, the collection felt more adventurous than usual. But its unusual boldness was balanced by smarter looks, like the drool-inducing office wear accessorized with oversized bags.

 The leather pieces were, as always, a standout. Blazy continues his exploration of leather as a covert fabric. This season, this idea is expanded to oversized leather sweaters and coats woven to emulate tweed.


Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

GCDS SS24

Giuliano Calza’s latest collection was an homage to the Southern part of his homeland and more specifically, the hot nights in Naples. The palette was complimenting sun-kissed skin – light blue and yellow and warm brown – and the silhouette was sexy (a GCDS signature).  Particular standout designs were the elements created out of flat ironed raffia – a reference to his grandmother’s classic wooden furniture. As for the accessory of the season? The beaded ballet flats for men, worn with frilly lurex socks, are what our Neapolitan dreams are made of.


Words by Martin Onufrowicz

FENDI SS24

The front row has become the focal point of fashion month, eclipsing the original intent of a runway show. Kim Jones’ Fendi proves that there’s no need to choose between them. For its most recent show, the room was filled with the typical paparazzi bait (Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss, etc.). And yet, the collection was the subject of the headlines.

 For his Spring Summer 2024 collection, Jones’ muse was the sculptural beauty of Rome, observed in both its classical statues and its women. Long dresses are devoid of any draping, revealing its columnar inspiration.

 Sleek shapes are paired with color blocking that intertwines neutral browns with vibrant hues. Jones often references Karl Lagerfeld's legacy at Fendi, but this season, the intention was clear, particularly in looks that reworked Lagerfeld’s geometric prints.

 Beautiful dresses were adorned with reasonable heels and ladylike gloves. The show had an air of timeless elegance, with simple and chic styling.


Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

PRADA SS24

For the Spring Summer 2024 collection of Prada, Miuccia Prada was clear: it’s about the clothes. Speaking to reporters backstage, the designer expressed her animosity towards the cryptic conversations about her creations. Thankfully, the collection had plenty of clothes worth talking about.

 Despite the assertiveness of Prada’s statement, there was a fun act in the show. The slow dripping slime was revived from the menswear collection shown in June. That wasn’t the only similarity between the presentations - the emphasis on silhouette and movement was another common denominator. Like in the men’s show, light blazers with bold shoulders were smoothly tucked in A-line shorts. 

 However, the show had a much lighter - dare we say feminine - feel. The fringe featured in the menswear collection was now embellished with crystals. Movement was explored in different ways, but most strikingly in shift dresses with panels of silk organza that flew tenderly as the models walked (an effect that has made the internet name them “jellyfish dresses”).

 The show ended on an emotional note when Prada and Simons were joined by Fabio Zambernardi for their finale bow. Zambernardi is leaving his position as design director after four decades with the brand.


Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

BURBERRY SS24

With his new collection for spring, Daniel Lee presented a playful and inspired play on one of the house’s most recognisable signatures – the knight on a horseback logo.

The detail was explored in the form of prints covering dresses and shirts – which sat on the body in the most elegant way – as well as more straightforwardly in the show’s final look: suit trousers (worn sans shirt) cinched with a belt with an oversized buckle, which is sure to become a bestseller item.

The desire to experiment with house codes was also present in Lee’s take on outerwear – particular standouts included trench coats with a dropped waist and a shearling military-inspired jacket in the now instantly recognisable Burberry blue.


Words by Martin Onufrowicz