An extreme heatwave hit Paris during this menswear fashion week, making Pharrell Williams’ beach-themed show space for his Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2027 collection a timely match. With sandy floors and an impressive replica of breaking waves serving as a magic sea portal, models emerged onto the catwalk, capturing Williams’ mood for the season: surfwear at its finest, but still essentially Vuitton.
A more literal approach to the theme was shown through actual surfboards and wetsuits, both crafted in monogrammed and logoed versions. Pocket chains, keyrings, sea-themed bag charms, beaded necklaces, and a palm tree print, spotted on summer shirts, slouchier trousers, knits, and short shorts, all added to the vision.
Besides paying homage to surf culture, sports and streetwear influences equally merged with Williams’ modern-day LV dandyism. Skateboarding-style trainers were styled with suits and tailored trousers, and all sorts of baseball caps and hoodies were seen on most looks. Wearing a brown Vuitton wetsuit, one of the models walked the runway carrying a matching bike, also Louis Vuitton-themed.
Pharrell’s effortlessly upbeat, joyful ethos wasn’t left out of the show, now highlighted by his choice of colour and use of animal prints and textures, especially electric-hued crocodile and snake and classic leopard, the latter featured on a few trainers. Handbags in mini and maxi proportions naturally stood out, ranging from bubble-gum and hot pink to black-and-white chequered styles, the pattern also used on a knitted long cardigan.
Zooming in, micro-sequins promoted a glistening effect on wool vests, while patches were placed on jackets, nodding to skateboarding signifiers. Denim was doubled, embroidered, slightly faded and ripped on the hemline.
The Louis Vuitton leather trunks, a historical maison element and one of Williams’ revived signature pieces since the beginning of his tenure as menswear creative director back in 2023, appeared six times during the show. In different iterations, they were all carried by models wearing an ecru Louis Vuitton 'Équipe' uniform-style buttoned jacket, with one of the trunks featuring an underwater landscape. Diving into Vuitton’s spectacle is always a refreshing way to escape the heat.
Words by Ketlyn Araujo
