The Emporio Armani Fall/Winter 2026 collection showcased silhouettes rooted in early 20th-century European menswear. The pieces are deeply imprinted with British country codes, with tailoring as the backbone, filtered through a contemporary and gender-fluid lens. Reminiscent of power dressing, the looks feel strong and assertive, yet intellectual and subdued.
Three-piece suits, structured overcoats, double-breasted jackets, waistcoats, ties, and long coats that elongate the body appear repeatedly throughout. Flat caps are present in myriad ways, creating a sense of mystery while adding a stylish finish to every look.
There is a subtle interplay between masculine and feminine synergies, with masculine structure commanding the styling of the looks. For women, the tailoring borrows heavily from menswear – oversized blazers, pantsuits, structured coats, and buttoned vests – while playing with femininity through pieces such as knee-length skirts, which create a sense of subtle sensuality.
The colour selection revolves around calming tones, ranging from charcoal and slate grey to muted brown and deep navy. An occasional pop of deep Bordeaux stands out, while denim interrupts the severity of the palette. Velvet is also present, adding softness and luminosity, and breaking the collection’s continuous rhythm.
Words by Carolina Benjumea
