Miuccia Prada has, over her 36 years in the industry, established an idiosyncratic authority. Her decisions are not guided by the same metrics as other designers because, as she has demonstrated season after season for almost four decades, she operates in a league of her own. Take Spring/Summer 2025 as an example. Those watching the collection unfold might have been perplexed as the 49 looks appeared on the runway. There seemed to be a lack of a clear "point"—the kind of poignant statement we’ve come to expect from Prada’s collections. Our best guess while observing in real time was "superhero." Yet, even then, we knew to wait for the intellectual purpose that fuelled the collection.

Echoes of the previous menswear collection appeared in trompe-l’oeil printed polos, wired collars, and a metallic miniskirt reminiscent of the sunglasses worn by male models just over three months ago. Oversized eyelet-filled—or rather, emptied—skirts and dresses caught the eye in bright metallics and shiny blacks. Headgear and extravagant eyewear were the main evidence in the superhero indictment, further fueled by a multitude of colourful tights. Confusion reigned as we tried to make sense of it all. Then, as soon as Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons spoke backstage, the pieces of their clever puzzle fell neatly into place.

In a time of plurality, where the world is shaped by a powerful, Orwellian-like force, the duo chose to comment on the era we live in. Always an astute observer—though not a critic, as Mrs. Prada herself clarifies—the collection feels like a reflection on the blurring boundaries between real life and algorithmic control. Unpredictability itself is the catalyst for parka-covered feathered dresses or belted leggings.

This concept pervaded the entire collection, from the way the looks were created—completely different from any of their previous collections, as the duo explained backstage—to the smallest details. Shoes were all different, all somehow inspired by previous collections —perhaps a comment on the AI recreations we’ve all become a bit too accustomed to. Despite the high standard the duo has set for themselves, the ability to constantly raise the bar is ever-mesmerizing to witness.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

PRADA SS25

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