showreport
Martin Onufrowicz
CELINE SS25
showreport
Martin Onufrowicz
LOUIS VUITTON SS25
showreport
Martin Onufrowicz
LACOSTE SS25
showreport
Martin Onufrowicz
MIU MIU SS25
showreport
Martin Onufrowicz
VALENTINO SS25

showreport

BALENCIAGA SS24

The Balenciaga show was a festival of icons – from French national treasure Isabelle Huppert reading an instruction on how to tailor a jacket in the soundtrack to fashion über-critic Cathy Horyn and queer legend Amanda Lepore walking the runway. In a similar spirit, the garments created by the house this season were a play on Demna’s instantly recognisable design codes – jackets were built with hyper-sized shoulders, trench coats were deconstructed and sneakers larger than clown shoes were paired with the tiniest of sweatsuits. The models seemed to be on a journey – carrying big travelling bags, wearing hotel bathrobes and furry slippers or even holding onto their passports and train tickets with the destination of Geneva (Demna’s home base). The purpose of their excursion? Yet unknown. But the clothes they are wearing will keep them protected whatever the reason might be.

Words by Martin Onufrowicz

VALENTINO SS23

For Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli, exploring the power of the feminine body was the focal point of his latest collection. In the show, presented at the Ecole des Beaux-Arts in Paris, the Italian designer showed his stance against the recently rising conservative moods in his home country of policing women’s bodies and blaming their appearance for harassment they may face.

The presentation opened with a series of intricate laser-cut dresses which strongly addressed this point. In these stand-out pieces, the decorative elements were treated as the basis of construction, with three-dimensional lilies and doves being interwoven together to create a garment.

The raw feminine energy was also felt in the fabrics chosen throughout  – thick linen was used to create a mini dress with cut-outs on the sides and a spectacular cape embellished with sirens, while silk became the basis of tailored suit jackets and floor-length t-shirt gowns with a slit going all the way to the hip bone.

As the models walked around the performance by Piccioli’s close collaborator, FKA Twigs – an artist so well-known for using her athletic physique in her hypnotic productions – his vision could not be clearer. At Valentino, the goal is to give women the ultimate freedom to express themselves in any way they please.

Words by Martin Onufrowicz

RICK OWENS SS24

“I still believe in love.” Diana Ross’ voice echoes through the courtyard of Palais de Tokyo. Through incessant repetition, Ross’ words become a chant. Yellow and fuchsia smoke, along with rose petals, fill the air. For his Spring Summer 2024 show, Rick Owens turned the Parisian venue into an archaic temple.

 The show opened with characteristic pieces. High-waisted jeans, bra tops and impossibly narrow fishtail gowns all in the typical black. But, as the collection progressed, its inspiration grew clearer: love. Shades of pink, red and orange gave the pieces a romantic essence.

 Pointed shoulders on bomber and leather jackets grew every time they came down the runway, eventually transforming into Venus fly trap collars, ready to consume the model’s head. Their black contact lenses added to the sensation that the procession these models were on was a sacrificial one.

 Impossibly draped dresses in shades of pink and red were magnificent, creating alien-like silhouettes. The collection ended with billowing bodysuits whose flowing capes meshed right into the colorful atmosphere of the show.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

CARVEN SS24

There’s something magical about the start of a new era at a brand, an exciting limbo where everything is possible. These expectations are responsible for the frequent disappointment with the first collection under the new creative direction. Fortunately, Louise Trotter has nothing to worry about. For her debut at Carven, the British designer successfully presented her vision for the Parisian Maison.

 Ahead of its Spring Summer 2024 collection, Trotter had voiced her desire to start the brand anew. Luckily, that didn’t mean total erasure of the brand’s identity. Established in 1945, Carven was known for its hourglass silhouette. The new creative director referenced it through powerful shoulders and nipped-in waists.

 Throughout its 40 looks, the designer is redefining simple wardrobe essentials. Cinched trench coats, transparent white shirts, elegant black dresses. Carven’s new aesthetic is thoroughly refined.

 Simplicity does not mean boring. Trotter made sure to explore different textures to add interest. Sheer skirts and tops were a standout in the collection, especially when layered on top of heavyweight short dresses. Similarly, the beading of the accessories didn’t go unnoticed, adding an element of fun to an utterly chic collection.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

LOEWE SS24

Simplicity runs through most collections in the ongoing Paris Fashion Week. As designers read the proverbial room of the times, the trend seems to be to pull back. But Jonathan Anderson proves that the shifting aesthetic sensibilities don’t necessarily mean tedious clothing. The designer focuses on daywear in Loewe’s Spring Summer 2024 collection, taming his usual surrealist approach.

 The fluidity of beautifully draped skirts was at odds with the constriction of interesting cocoon knits that immobilized the model’s bodies.

 Anderson brought back fan-favorite designs. The Polly Pocket like rubberized pieces made a comeback, this time in less amusing silhouettes and colors. The cotton candy palette is replaced with drearier colors: gray and dark green t-shirt and shorts sets are the natural evolution of sickeningly sweet skirts and polos.

 It’s clear the designer envisions a unisex season, with some crossover pieces from the men’s collection presented earlier this year. Both dress shirts and heavy-knitted jumpers are tucked into extremely high-waisted trousers, distorting the body’s proportions.

 But, besides the inspiration of previous designs, Anderson also introduced the next it silhouette a (literal) boxy top with flowy bottoms. An astounding yellow gown has a post it like neckline, contrasted by a cascading skirt of the same tone.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

TODS SS24

The Tod’s show was a brilliant exercise in exploring interesting ways of accentuating the waist – the opening looks showcased vests with a deconstructed detail paired with incredibly elegant knee-length pleated skirts and the bags in luxe black and burgundy leather were worn as belts. The garments played with the idea of a fantasy wardrobe of the chicest gallery owner in town – from day dresses and oversized knits worn with skirts cut below the knee to razor-sharp suits perfect for a buzzy exhibition reception. This was the last collection from creative director Walter Chiapponi, who is leaving the brand after four years, and his final take on the Tod’s woman was definitely a goodbye on a high note.

Words by Martin Onufrowicz

ACNE STUDIOS SS24

This season, Jonny Johansson succeeded in creating the most desirable and no-fuss garments with maximum effect. The aesthetic sat at the intersection of ladylike and naughty – the dresses were long and decorated with feathers, the coats were paired with see-through garments worn underneath and short daytime suits were constructed in leather – creating a wardrobe that will seamlessly take you from a luncheon to a rave. The silhouette was tight-fitting and accentuated the figure – a quality that was definitely appreciated by two big fans of the brand sitting front row, Rosalía and Kylie Jenner (who both wore looks straight from the runway). From Calabasas to Neukölln, you’re sure to see a lot of Acne’s brilliant take on sexiness next spring.

Words by Martin Onufrowicz

THE ROW SS24

The past year has been riddled with conversations on quiet luxury. The Row is often cited during these discussions. With its Spring Summer 2024 collection, the American brand proves it's not a part of the movement - it leads it. Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen continue to be the authority on the art of the effortlessly chic.

 This season, the clothes felt more relaxed than usual, ideal for a Summer spent hidden away in a seaside town. The silhouettes were slouchy. Even the tailored pieces had a relaxed feel, the jackets were oversized, the trousers were drapey and the dresses were lightweight.

 The collection also marked the closest we’ve seen to The Row athleisure. Trench coats, shorts and even t-shirt dresses had a dignified casual feel.

 A multitude of elegant windbreakers paraded down the runway - we’ve never wished to be caught in a summer storm so badly.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

COURRÈGES SS24

The invitation for the Courrèges Spring Summer 2024 show was hidden within a slim stone. Under it was a request: “break to reveal.” As the stone crumbled in our hands, the invite was revealed. The venue’s floor had the same texture, and as the models walked through, it too began to slowly disintegrate. The use of this stone was not just a gimmick (even if a fun one) it bared the inspiration for the collection: a desert road trip. And what a trip it was. 

 Nicolas Di Felice created a collection with a specific point of view that managed to stay close to the brand’s DNA. Flowy shirts took the edge off crocodile leather trousers and skirts. Leather jackets resembled open shirts, somehow structural and light at the same time. 

 Towards the end of the collection, Di Felice infused the Space Age aesthetic most associated with Courrèges. Metallic and plastic bras had an almost astronautical edge. High-neck corset tops had an extraterrestrial feel. The show ended with a jarring embellished silver dress, the type we’d expect (or hope) an alien would wear to lounge in. 

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

BALMAIN SS24

The Balmain collection made headlines even before Paris Fashion Week started when the brand’s creative director Olivier Rousteing announced on Instagram last week that over 50 pieces from the show were stolen during the transport. Despite this disruption, the clothes shown yesterday managed to bring the drama in its best kind. For the past couple of seasons, Rousteing has been presenting a more streamlined look for Balmain and the SS24 show was no exception. The aesthetic was deeply rooted in the glamour of the 1980s with a running motif of roses explored throughout the garments – from leather basket bags in the shape of wrapped bouquets and delicate polka-dotted pieces with big flowers sitting at the collarbone and waist to long high-shine trench coat and mini dresses covered in a vibrant print. In a way, the events of the past week really evoked the true powerful nature of the Balmain woman. As the models walked down the runway, they looked like heroines of Pedro Almodóvar’s classic films, ready for anything that comes their way.

Words by Martin Onufrowicz

SAINT LAURENT SS24

 It's customary that the Eiffel Tower illuminates the Saint Laurent show but for the Spring Summer 2024 show, Catherine Devenue’s voice articulated it. The actress’ voice reverberated through the marble venue as the collection was shown. Devenue’s presence is inferential in a show that heavily references Yves Saint Laurent’s take on femininity. The actress and the designer had a long-lasting friendship.

 Following the steps of Saint Laurent himself, Anthony Vaccarello presented a reflection on unapologetic strong femininity. The show opened with a pair of boiler suits that prophesied a collection filled with utilitarian-inspired garments. The iconic safari jacket was reconfigured under Vaccarello’s vision, with a looser fit and cinched with a powerful leather belt. The collection was inspired by women in male-dominated fields. A fact that became wildly apparent when aviator inspired fits drifted down the runway.

 As the show concluded, softer silhouettes and transparent textures appeared, diversifying the collection’s range. Even through completely distinct pieces, there was a unifying undertone, a slightly austere aesthetic — a departure from last season’s exaggerated power suits.

 The accessories contrasted with the more restrained pieces. Geometric earrings that mixed gold and silver were ostentatious. Sky-high heels complemented deliciously supple leather gloves, proving that, to the Saint Laurent woman, elegance and strength are synonymous.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

CHRISTIAN DIOR SS24

“My body is not a product. It’s not a bargaining chip,” graphic words fill the venue of Christian Dior’s Spring Summer 2024 runway show. “I am not a space between your pages,” they continued. “I am not her,” read throughout the show, not coincidentally the name of the immersive video collage created by the artist Elena Bellantoni. Similarly, to the images that framed it, Maria Grazia Chiuri’s collection was an analysis of femininity and feminism.

 In contrast with the LED walls that contained the show, powerfully illuminated in shades of pink and yellow, the collection’s color palette was undoubtedly neutral. Black and white pieces were only broken up by the occasional beige in the shape of pleated skirts and tailored suits.

 Throughout the 78 look collection, there were quite a few standouts. From blurred Paris city maps to X-ray versions of the iconic Mille-fleurs, the prints featured in dresses and long coats were remarkable.

 The collection had an overall darker and edgier feel than past Christian Dior collections, frequently evoking the imagery of witchcraft. A midi skirt and oversized jacket set appeared to be burned off at the edges, a nod to the fires that burned the witches of the past. Full-length lace gowns possess a vintage appeal that somehow appeals to the supernatural. The message is clear. Maria Grazia Chiuri is addressing the patriarchy directly.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

BOTTEGA VENETA SS24

Through the direction of Matthieu Blazy, Bottega Veneta has become one of the most consistently exhilarating luxury brands. Its Spring Summer 2024 collection proved that exact point, rooting itself in the book “On the Road” by Jack Kerouac. The inspiration was clear. Blazy intertwined classic house codes with aesthetics from all over the world, keeping enough distance to avoid cultural appropriation accusations while creating a diversified yet cohesive collection.

 From fringed leather dresses to the extremely shareable pom pom dresses, the collection felt more adventurous than usual. But its unusual boldness was balanced by smarter looks, like the drool-inducing office wear accessorized with oversized bags.

 The leather pieces were, as always, a standout. Blazy continues his exploration of leather as a covert fabric. This season, this idea is expanded to oversized leather sweaters and coats woven to emulate tweed.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

GCDS SS24

Giuliano Calza’s latest collection was an homage to the Southern part of his homeland and more specifically, the hot nights in Naples. The palette was complimenting sun-kissed skin – light blue and yellow and warm brown – and the silhouette was sexy (a GCDS signature).  Particular standout designs were the elements created out of flat ironed raffia – a reference to his grandmother’s classic wooden furniture. As for the accessory of the season? The beaded ballet flats for men, worn with frilly lurex socks, are what our Neapolitan dreams are made of.

Words by Martin Onufrowicz

FENDI SS24

The front row has become the focal point of fashion month, eclipsing the original intent of a runway show. Kim Jones’ Fendi proves that there’s no need to choose between them. For its most recent show, the room was filled with the typical paparazzi bait (Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss, etc.). And yet, the collection was the subject of the headlines.

 For his Spring Summer 2024 collection, Jones’ muse was the sculptural beauty of Rome, observed in both its classical statues and its women. Long dresses are devoid of any draping, revealing its columnar inspiration.

 Sleek shapes are paired with color blocking that intertwines neutral browns with vibrant hues. Jones often references Karl Lagerfeld's legacy at Fendi, but this season, the intention was clear, particularly in looks that reworked Lagerfeld’s geometric prints.

 Beautiful dresses were adorned with reasonable heels and ladylike gloves. The show had an air of timeless elegance, with simple and chic styling.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

PRADA SS24

For the Spring Summer 2024 collection of Prada, Miuccia Prada was clear: it’s about the clothes. Speaking to reporters backstage, the designer expressed her animosity towards the cryptic conversations about her creations. Thankfully, the collection had plenty of clothes worth talking about.

 Despite the assertiveness of Prada’s statement, there was a fun act in the show. The slow dripping slime was revived from the menswear collection shown in June. That wasn’t the only similarity between the presentations - the emphasis on silhouette and movement was another common denominator. Like in the men’s show, light blazers with bold shoulders were smoothly tucked in A-line shorts. 

 However, the show had a much lighter - dare we say feminine - feel. The fringe featured in the menswear collection was now embellished with crystals. Movement was explored in different ways, but most strikingly in shift dresses with panels of silk organza that flew tenderly as the models walked (an effect that has made the internet name them “jellyfish dresses”).

 The show ended on an emotional note when Prada and Simons were joined by Fabio Zambernardi for their finale bow. Zambernardi is leaving his position as design director after four decades with the brand.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

BURBERRY SS24

With his new collection for spring, Daniel Lee presented a playful and inspired play on one of the house’s most recognisable signatures – the knight on a horseback logo.

The detail was explored in the form of prints covering dresses and shirts – which sat on the body in the most elegant way – as well as more straightforwardly in the show’s final look: suit trousers (worn sans shirt) cinched with a belt with an oversized buckle, which is sure to become a bestseller item.

The desire to experiment with house codes was also present in Lee’s take on outerwear – particular standouts included trench coats with a dropped waist and a shearling military-inspired jacket in the now instantly recognisable Burberry blue.

Words by Martin Onufrowicz

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