“I still believe in love.” Diana Ross’ voice echoes through the courtyard of Palais de Tokyo. Through incessant repetition, Ross’ words become a chant. Yellow and fuchsia smoke, along with rose petals, fill the air. For his Spring Summer 2024 show, Rick Owens turned the Parisian venue into an archaic temple.

The show opened with characteristic pieces. High-waisted jeans, bra tops and impossibly narrow fishtail gowns all in the typical black. But, as the collection progressed, its inspiration grew clearer: love. Shades of pink, red and orange gave the pieces a romantic essence.

Pointed shoulders on bomber and leather jackets grew every time they came down the runway, eventually transforming into Venus fly trap collars, ready to consume the model’s head. Their black contact lenses added to the sensation that the procession these models were on was a sacrificial one.

Impossibly draped dresses in shades of pink and red were magnificent, creating alien-like silhouettes. The collection ended with billowing bodysuits whose flowing capes meshed right into the colorful atmosphere of the show.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

RICK OWENS SS24

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