The word chic has largely been banned from fashion speak. Online, the anti-chic sentiment relies on it being a cliché. However, it’s hard to avoid it when looking at Celine Spring/Summer 2027. Michael Rider seems to understand that chic isn't necessarily about looking particularly polished. It's actually about the complete opposite. His third womenswear collection for the maison is a study in the possibilities of getting dressed, with a wardrobe that moves between Parisian restraint, American sportswear and bohemian eccentricity.
The collection opened with a black dress. Cut with a plunging V-neck and a gently defined waist. From there, Rider built on the idea of a wardrobe through pieces that felt individually considered but never overly styled. Tailored jackets came with pronounced shoulders, while trousers shifted between narrow chinos, wide-legged shapes and voluminous, almost balloon-like silhouettes. Some were pleated, others patterned, including printed gaucho-style trousers that brought a certain nonchalance to an otherwise refined proposition.
The tailoring was particularly strong. Jackets had enough structure to give the body presence without restricting it, and were worn with fluid trousers, simple tops and belts that ranged from discreet to deliberately exaggerated. There was a looseness to the proportions that kept the clothes from feeling too correct. A blazer could be worn open over a simple dress or paired with trousers that seemed to have a life of their own. Nothing felt particularly complicated.
Rider understands the value of a little disruption, which, in his visual language, comes in the shape of a 1970s sunny disposition. A butter-yellow dress came with a faded, scarf-like print. Floral patchwork appeared on an oversized bag, while long beaded necklaces and decorative headpieces introduced an eccentricity to otherwise timeless silhouettes. Colour was used with similar restraint, although restraint here doesn't mean playing it safe. Black, cream and muted neutrals provided the foundation, interrupted by solar yellow, vivid fuchsia, magnetic blue and flashes of red. Sheer gloves revealed unexpected colour against otherwise sober looks. One beaded minidress announced itself through its movement and sound, the wood clinking as the model walked.
There are traces of the different lives Celine has lived, from the intellectual sensuality associated with Phoebe Philo to the sharper Parisian attitude that has become part of the house's more recent history. But Rider isn't interested in recreating either. His approach feels more instinctive, drawing from familiar references without becoming trapped by them. The result is a collection that makes a convincing case for chic, not as a rigid set of rules, but as a way of making decisions.
Words by Pedro Vasconcelos
