Upon a sea of darkness, a light suddenly shines. The Emporio Armani Fall/Winter 2024 show starts before any clothes make it down the runway. A black lighthouse shines as Loredana Berte’s voice sings “Il Mare D’inverno”. The first look reveals the nautical theme isn’t a mere set decoration, it’s the through line for the collection we’re about to witness. A thick navy coat with precious gold buttons is topped with a stylized sailor hat.
The theme is prevalent in the first section of the collection, with sailor collars and white and navy stripes galore — all through the lens of Armani’s sophistication. Eventually, the nautical narrative waned, giving way to boxy jackets in tones of grey and taupe.
After a brief excursion into skiwear, the Italian house’s staples appeared. Beautifully tailored suits and leather ensembles appeared, with neckerchiefs that tied them to the lighthouse still radiating in the back.
Speaking on the collection, Mr. Armani references the Atlantic crossing, taking inspiration from the bravery necessary to crossover. Perhaps a parallel to the journey he made to turn him into a legend of menswear. A status that is reinforced with his latest collection.
Words by Pedro Vasconcelos
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