showreport
Martin Onufrowicz
CELINE SS25
showreport
Martin Onufrowicz
LOUIS VUITTON SS25
showreport
Martin Onufrowicz
LACOSTE SS25
showreport
Martin Onufrowicz
MIU MIU SS25
showreport
Martin Onufrowicz
VALENTINO SS25

showreport

RICK OWENS FW24

Rick Owens remains in a lane of his own. For his Fall/Winter 2024 show, the designer presented a pared-down collection — a reaction to what he calls the "barbaric times we're living in." Unlike his previous shows, often staged in the grand Palais de Tokyo, this season the designer invited a select few to his Paris home, where he showcased an intimate offering.

Guests were invited for a metaphorical and literal homecoming. Named "Porterville," the collection shares a name with the town where the American designer grew up. The show featured Owens’ staples: bulbous puffer jackets, massively disproportionate leather jackets, and restrictive hairy loops. However, the immediate standout from the collection was the inflatable boots. These extraordinary pieces, which brought an added futuristic spirit to the collection, were prophesied by the designer as utopian hopes.

The monstrous proportions of Owens’ designs were magnified, in response to what the designer states as "the most disappointing human behaviour we will witness in our lifetime."

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

LOEWE FW24

Muses are often perceived as female figures. Leave it to Jonathan Anderson to subvert this notion. For Loewe’s Fall/Winter 2024 show, the venue transformed into a sanctified space, adorned with moving stained glass windows depicting Anderson’s greatest muses.

The effervescently colourful moving displays were mirrored in bags, trousers, zip-up hoodies and maxi dresses — all crafted in collaboration with the artist Richard Hawkins, renowned for his vivid homoerotic collages.

Anderson’s omnipresent surreal twists manifested in the form of all-in-one looks that seamlessly combined pants, socks, and shoes. Speaking backstage, the Irish designer referenced the inescapable impotence of modern media as his inspiration for these pieces. This concept was further explored in extraordinarily elongated pussy-bow blouses that challenged modern definitions of masculinity.

The collection delivered the final blow to the notion that we must wear pants in wintertime. Building on the absence of trousers from this season’s JW Anderson’s show, models strutted in coats that just reached above the knee, baring their legs. Bundle up, it'll be a cold boy winter.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

DIOR MEN FW24

In Kim Jones' Dior, collaborations reign supreme. However, for the Maison’s menswear Fall/Winter 2024 collection, inspiration came directly from the British designer’s bloodline. Renowned photographer Colin Jones often collaborated with ballet dancer Rudolf Nureyev. Sixty years later, his nephew referenced the performer through the Dior lens.

Ballet flats, crumpled berets, A-line shorts: the collection felt like a luxurious take on the imagination of a ballet dancer. Inspired by Nureyev’s style both on and off stage, the offering exuded an elegant simplicity. It was wonderfully neutral, except for the occasional pop of colour. Jones’ interpretation of a dancer’s wardrobe is ironically vivid.

Arguably the most exciting aspect of the collection came at its tail end. No, not the rotating structure that had the models centrifugally spinning, but its couture capsule. After seasons of teasing a couture collection for men, Jones finally pulled the trigger. Crystal-embellished knit cardigans, unbelievably ostentatious kimonos – it was a definite feast. In an industry that still ties men’s elegance with ties, Jones dared to dream a little bigger. The collection's pinnacle came with Debussy gown-inspired embellishments on transparent blouses and matching sets.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

LGN LOUIS GABRIEL NOUCHI FW24

If there are two things we can expect from a Louis Gabriel Nouchi collection, it’s literary references and sexual tension. His Fall/Winter 2024 show was no different. Titled BEL AMI, the French designer drew inspiration from the classic Guy de Maupassant novel of the same name. The story follows Georges Duroy, a journalist's corrupt rise to power through the manipulation of his sexuality.

The show’s theme was taken to heart, from its location – a hollowed-out bank – to its accessories. The symbol of the coin was central to the collection, featured in ties, shoes and rings, but perhaps most effectively in bracelets that, when tucked into trousers, gave the illusion of coins spilling out.

Besides the literal interpretations, the opulence of the social climbing story was shown in clever ways. The luxury of fur was evoked through patterns that cleverly mimicked it. Long, thick coats dragged on the floor as the models walked, often with nothing but underwear and a tie underneath.

The brand's classic tropes were on full display. Tailored pieces emphasized the shoulders of their wearers while reducing their waists. Loungewear pieces were translucent, even sexy. The strong hints of sexuality throughout the collection were only enhanced by the impeccable casting LGN is known for. In an industry that often skirts discussions around male body representation, the Parisian brand leads by example.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

DRIES VAN NOTEN FW24

Dries Van Noten's Fall/Winter 2024 Menswear collection appears as a quite minimalistic stance from the designer, known for his mixes of animal patterns and usage of shimmery materials. This season, Dries reflects on contrasting notions and explores the bridges between tradition and modernity, rusticity and refinement. Indeed, the Belgian designer tends to reference techniques and imagery from the past to create contemporary design, finding elegance in the unexpected. In this collection, the clash between dichotomic concepts resulted in harmony. 

The show started with neatly structured looks. Coats are long, layered on top of shaggy oversized knits and paired with black leather opera gloves, elongating the silhouette. Heritage fabrics from British mills and military materials are used together in the tailored looks of the show – once again, contrasting. The second half of the collection introduces colours and modern textures such as light-blue washed denim, used in a trench coat or a double-breasted blazer. The colour palette is surprisingly composed of muted tones. Acidic hues of corals, yellows and greens slowly appear alongside pixelated prints which feel aged and distorted. Safety pins are used as brooches, referencing the underground scene of the nineties – the era of the emergence of the Antwerp Six, and Dries himself.

Words by Marien Brandon

ACNE STUDIOS FW24

Acne Studios Fall/Winter 2024 Menswear collection, shot on American musician Yves Tumor, is a celebration of denim culture. The street-tough, masculine, leather-wearing archetype of the biker is transformed into a cyber-biker. In a Tom of Finland-esque turn of events, this traditional figure of masculinity becomes androgynous, shapeshifting and grunge. Leather jackets are seen throughout the collection paired with t-shirts featuring kitten prints or psychedelic patterns. This take on the grunge aesthetic is a signature of the Acne style which playfully gives a vintage or used appearance to new garments. Denim trousers seem worn out, covered in dirt or printed with chains, bows and accessories in a style reminiscent of DIY. Denims are adorned with prints, while on the flip side, UGG-like boots and leather bags are made of denim trompe-l’oeil. That’s the Acne paradox.

The collection is provocative and sexy, as well as cool and comfortable. “Denim, inherently, has a rebellious aura. It’s provocative, it’s rugged,” says Jonny Johansson. It is always appreciable to see a designer stick to what they do best. In Acne’s case, the styling is very unique and thoughtful, almost confusing sometimes. Fluffy faux fur hats with cat ears, mittens and scarves are inspired by Kawaii street-style culture while biker looks are influenced by sporty ski elements in the way they are worn. This avant-garde mix of references takes a trained eye to understand. If you know, you know…

Words by Marien Brandon

GIVENCHY FW24

In the first Givenchy show after Matthew Williams’s departure, the in-house team designed a collection inspired by the founder of the Maison, Hubert de Givenchy. For the Men’s Fall/Winter 2024, the brand gave us modern classics with a couture twist. 

It wasn’t just the clothes themselves that took inspiration from Givenchy’s founder. Its presentation saw a return to form to shows of his time. In the historic salons at 3 Avenue George V, men’s fashion editors sat at café tables, noting the absence of celebrity appearances that have become the standard. 

The collection opens with a direct reference to Mr. Givenchy himself. The blouse blanche, the designer’s uniform in his studio, is reinterpreted. Elegantly minimalist, the first look sets the tone of the collection. Tailored coats and jackets with added twists followed. If some suits reveal the model’s bare arms, horse tails cover some coats.

Despite some hints of camp, particularly with the cat motifs that honoured the founder’s pet, the collection is proudly minimalist. So distant from Matthew William’s vision for the brand, might this be an omen to Givenchy’s future?

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

BURC AKYOL FW24

Burç Akyol’s collections are always filled with genuine emotion and his latest offering for Fall/Winter 2024 was no exception. Titled “Made in Dreux”, the show is a reflection of the designer’s 90s upbringing in the town located about 80 km outside of Paris. Growing up in a place where fashion was not nearly as present as in the nearby metropolis, Akyol’s affection for finding beauty in everyday life was stronger than the instinct to fit in – leading him to move to the capital and successfully climb the steps of the fashion ladder. The collection became a love letter to this desire, expressed through his ingenious creativity. Classic garments are developed into statement pieces. The opening look – a black wool coat – is cropped and constructed with a dramatic elongated front panel. A shearling jacket is transformed into an asymmetric cape. A zip-up knit is given a long tail reminiscent of black tie tuxedos. Alongside the more avant-garde pieces, Akyol also shows that he’s the master of creating desirable daytime garments with a twist, with a deconstructed Oxford shirt and jeans with black panelling being particular standouts.

Words by Martin Onufrowicz

LOUIS VUITTON FW24

On the first day of Men's Paris Fashion Week, Pharrell Williams took us on a journey to a different Paris — Paris, Virginia. For Louis Vuitton’s Fall/Winter 2024 show, the American artist drew inspiration from his home state to present a particularly thematic collection.

It was a celebration of Americana, featuring cowhide Speedy bags, cowboy boots, and bolo ties, all viewed through the lens of Louis Vuitton’s savoir-faire. While the inspiration was obvious in some looks, it was more subtle in others. Turquoise buttons punctuated the more classic ensembles. Mindful of the proximity of Western aesthetics and Native American culture, Williams ensured an approach of appreciation rather than appropriation, collaborating with creative Dee Jay Two Bears of the Standing Rock Tribe on the accessories for the collection.

Despite its thematic focus, Williams' third collection for the Maison reaffirmed the house codes under his direction. Colourful Speedy bags appeared in aquamarine, orchid, and a sweet pink. Damoflage adorned classic trunks, suits, and trucker jackets.

As is customary for a Pharrell Williams production, the show was precisely that—a spectacle. The set projected images of the desert, and as the collection unfolded, the scenery gradually transformed, eventually releasing fake snow from the ceiling. The set list was impeccable, featuring four new songs with Pharrell and a host of other artists from the Standing Rock Tribe to Miley Cyrus.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

ZEGNA FW24

In Zegna’s latest show, models walked as cashmere flakes floated down from the ceiling, soothingly gathering in a pile at the start of the runway. Titled “In the Oasi of Cashmere”,  Alessandro Sartori’s latest collection was a masterclass on threading the fine line between design innovation and classic elegance. Recreating the “sala delle mischie”, a room in the brand’s headquarters where cashmere is blended, both the set and the name of Zegna’s Fall/Winter 2024 show was an ode to the luxurious fabric. 

One look after the other, Sartori’s ability to effortlessly layer fabric was beautifully illustrated. Tank tops were covered with layers of cashmere. Shirts were tucked in light jackets. Turtlenecks were paired with oversized ribbed coats. These combinations created interesting yet classic silhouettes, feeling effortlessly light despite the overlaying of garments. Lush jumpers with three-quarter sleeves stood out, paired with long thick gloves, perfectly hiding any evidence of skin.

The leather was buttery. The cashmere was soft. The colour palette was delightful, ranging from wonderful warm neutrals to colder pastel tones. Organically evolving from his previous work, Sartori delivered one of the standouts of Milan’s Men’s Fashion Week.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

JW ANDERSON FW24

If there’s one thing Jonathan Anderson masters, it is the ability to transform an artist’s work and translate it into wearable garments. Just in the past seasons, he’s adapted the work of choreographer Michael Clark for his namesake label’s Fall/Winter 2023 and sculptor Lynda Benglis for Loewe’s last menswear collection. So, when hours before JW Anderson’s Menswear Fall/Winter 2024, the designer posted an Instagram story with a screenshot of Stanley Kubrick’s “Eyes Wide Shut”, our ears perked up. Might it be a teaser? Well, obviously. What walked down the runway was a collection that was brimming with the movie’s sexual tension but that retained the designer’s signature flair.

For the show’s first look, the Irish designer fulfilled an inescapable prophecy: the no-pants trend has reached menswear. Models walked out in oversized knit jumpers and sheer black tights with what some call built-in shorts that suspiciously resemble control top pantyhose. The otherwise simple sweaters are paired with enormous poinsettia flowers on the lapel. 

If only the sexual tension of the movie is conveyed at first, the source material becomes increasingly apparent as the collection progresses. The paintings seen on the walls of the movie’s set, all done by the director’s wife, Christiane Kubrick, find their way into pompous blouses and knit dresses. 

Anderson’s surrealist flair isn’t absent, playing with extremes on the runway. Looks that consist only of the aforementioned tights are followed by cartoonishly oversized outfits. There’s a return of one of the brand’s favourites in the ruffled skorts, this time in fine knit with contrasting silk hems.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

JORDANLUCA FW24

For JORDANLUCA Fall/Winter 2024 show, Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto tapped into their respective heritage to weave references together, merging Italian tailoring with nods to subcultures and punk Britishness. From the techno soundtrack to the industrial location, the tone is set: it will be a celebration – a rave or a birthday party perhaps? Balloons featuring artworks from Dominic Myatt fill the room and act as the starting point of the narrative. Indeed, balloons are synonyms of nostalgia, an object linked to childhood memories, a fragile momentum which quickly vanishes as they pop or fly away. Here, they inform us that the party is over, but hope remains.

The show is opened by impeccable tailored silhouettes. The strictness of those looks is balanced by details borrowed from British subcultures. Cufflinks are dangerously spiky and trousers can be unzipped all the way to the back, while some are fully backless. As the show progresses, tailoring fades away as rave staple looks appear. A leather coat paired with leather boots is modelled by a mohawked Andreas Kronthaler, Vivienne Westwood’s partner and current creative director. Circular cutouts on the garments are mirroring the polka dots from the balloons. The silhouettes are oozing nods to subcultures, rough around the edges, but the mood of the collection isn't dark. It’s a party after all. JORDANLUCA invite us to live in the now with a collection filled with cultural references. London meets Milan, resulting in an ode to the outcasts, to vulnerability.

Words by Marien Brandon

MSGM FW24

Massimo Giorgetti latest offering for his brand MSGM was an ode to the fast-paced rhythm of his home base, Milan. The show took place at Porta Venezia, a metro station celebrating 60 years since its inauguration in 1964. In an Instagram post released before the collection, Giorgetti spoke about the resonance of the transportation network in the context of the city’s social landscape, writing: “It is the moving space where the city’s energies converge like invisible rivers, the great social equaliser where differences dissolve, in the constant noise of trains travelling towards a shared destiny.”

 

When it came to the clothes, Giorgetti’s nods to his favourite mode of transportation were in abundance – from the vibrant colour accents that referenced the signage of the metro lines to the prints on silk shirts and shorts showcasing images from the stations. The collection was an exercise in excellence when it came to desirability, with roomy wool coats in red and camel, glistening fuzzy knits and shiny puffer sets being particular standouts. Giorgetti’s signature humorous approach to accessories was this season explored with chunky Mary Janes, furry scarfs and speedy sunglasses – perfect for making you look a lot more alive during your next morning commute.

Words by Martin Onufrowicz

DOLCE & GABBANA FW24

For the past couple of seasons, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have been going back to their roots and presenting a more streamlined vision of the D&G man. This tendency continued with today’s FW24 show, aptly titled ‘SLEEK’ – the double-breasted coats were cut to perfection and the tailoring was as sharp as ever. Even the jeans – worn with silk blouses, velour jackets and a decadent (faux) fur coat – were crafted with incredible precision, making them appropriate attire for refined evening occasions. Many of the looks were adorned with an accessory that is quickly becoming one of the items of the season – a silk tie, here paired with wool coats and sequined jackets or used as a bow on top of a button closing the blazer. With their latest offering, one thing is clear: D&G remain the masters of creating garments filled with elegance and sensuality.  

Words by Martin Onufrowicz

GUCCI FW24

“Ogni tanto, lo so, sogni anche tu, e sogni di noi” (“Every now and then, I know, you dream too, and you dream of us”). The artist Valerio Eliogabalo Torrisi’s words painted a wall in Milan in preparation for the Gucci Fall/Winter 2024 menswear show. Coincidentally, that’s all we’ve been doing for the past few days, dreaming of Sabato De Sarno’s second collection. Or rather, after Gucci’s new (Ancora) red-hot campaign, wet dreaming. 

We hoped De Sarno’s first menswear offering would carry the same sensuality. Our prayers were heard. But, much like his earlier debut, the Italian designer defines sexy on his terms. Heavy chains grasped the models’ necks while their chests were exposed under heavy coats. Jackets were worn with nothing underneath except for ties with clasps that gave them a collar-like quality.   

The show opened with a familiar sight, a male counterpart to the opening look of his debut womenswear collection. Between cement pillars of the venue, a similarly neutral palette emerged, interrupted only by subtle pops of colour. Leather gloves, both in muted lime green and the now characteristic cherry red matched the bags they grasped. 

Despite the sensual sobriety of the collection, there was an underlying opulence. Whether on the collar of oversized cardigans, on trousers or drowning a sailor collar, sparkle is a definite neutral in the designer’s book. 

De Sarno furthers his creative narrative with his second collection for the Italian heritage brand. In a show that acted as the brother to his womenswear debut, the designer reaffirms the new Gucci codes.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

ACHILLES ION GABRIEL FW24

When it was announced that Achilles Ion Gabriel would launch his namesake brand, there was a sense of general excitement. The Finnish designer has become synonymous with surrealist footwear throughout his tenure in the industry. But would he be able to expand his point of view upwards on the body? The answer: objectively yes. 

His Fall/Winter 2024 show was a natural extension of the creative vision he’s familiarized us with. The accessories and footwear were, as expected, a standout. Long belts adorned both the model’s waists and shoulder bags. Cowboy boots had metal tips that read “Move Bitch”. 

The Finnish designer started from the ground up, introducing wardrobe essentials with a Gabrielian twist. Wrinkled suits, shirts with detached collars and fur-lined denim jackets. Additionally, we got to see the birth of the brand’s codes —arguably the most compelling aspect of a debut collection. CAMPERLAB fans might recognize some of Gabriel’s staples: painted leather, cowhide and the grey-blue shade that now acts as the brand’s official colour, appropriately named AIG blue. 

If last season the industry’s game of moving chairs had set our standards low for debut shows, Achilles Ion Gabriel moved them back up.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

ANN DEMEULEMEESTER SS24

Change is in the air. Sabato de Sarno in Gucci, Louise Trotter for Carven, Peter Do in Helmut Lang. This season is one of fresh starts. The last new beginning of the fashion month came through the courtesy of Ann Demeulemeester. After last season’s controversy (Ludovic de Saint Sernin produced one collection before parting ways with the brand), it’s Stefano Gallici’s turn. The creative director has been with the house since 2020, working as a menswear designer.

 It’s clear that Gallici has different strategy than his predecessor, relying heavily on the brand’s DNA. For its Spring Summer 2024 collection, the designer made sure to reference Ann Demeulemeester’s tropes while adding a utilitarian flair. The presentation’s point of view was rooted in the brand’s 90s aesthetics.

 The bare skin of last season was replaced with the transparency of fabrics that mysteriously revealed the models' bodies as they moved. Sheer gowns, gender-neutral tailoring, satin dresses: all under a black and white palette only interrupted by bold blues.

 Gallici seemed to reply directly to Saint Sernin’s critics. The creative director’s debut collection is undoubtedly Ann Demeulemeester

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

LOUIS VUITTON SS24

The venue for Louis Vuitton’s Spring Summer 2024 presentation was wrapped in orange tarpaulin, a material often used on hot air balloons. And it didn’t just look cool. The scenario was also an allusion to the show’s inspiration: the old glamour of traveling. Nicolas Ghesquière took the theme to heart, producing clothes that can easily be packed in one of Louis Vuitton’s emblematic trunks.

 It wasn’t just the weight of the clothes, everything down to the way the fabric creased was considered. With that goal in mind, the collection opened with multi-layered chiffon skirts, the type of piece that remains flowy no matter how wrinkled it might get in a suitcase.

 Flowy tops, statement belts and shoulder pads: the collection was undoubtedly Ghesquière. The white tights used to accessorize some looks were a fan favorite online. Could this mean a renaissance for the piece?

 The standouts were the heavily embroidered yet somehow lightweight shirts and dresses. Bugle beads were used to create sophisticated patterns, most notoriously in two slip dresses towards the end of the show. The thin glass beads create a wet brilliance, giving the pieces a trance-inducing shine. Now all we need is a holiday as an excuse to pack them.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

CHANEL SS24

One thing was abundantly clear for Chanel’s Spring Summer 2024 collection: Virginie Viard is reinstating Coco Chanel’s legacy. The legendary designer is single-handedly responsible for the French girl chic aesthetic. Viard is updating her lexicon.

 Unlike her predecessor, Karl Lagerfeld, who had a knack for spectacles, Viard focuses on the clothes themselves. For her latest collection, the French designer references the Maison's history, taking inspiration from 1930s beachwear.

 The show opened with tweed jumpsuits and maxi dresses with plunging necklines, giving the fabric an expected sensuality. As the collection progressed, swimsuits appeared that, though appearing simple at first, were cleverly quilted to resemble the iconic Chanel bags.

 References to the brand’s DNA were frequent but not necessarily obvious. A pink-striped lightweight maxi dress was a clear reference to Coco Chanel’s own creations. Asymmetrical terrycloth sets stood out, proving the designer is willing to expand Chanel’s narrative. 

 Towards the end of the collection, transparency and florals reigned, providing the collection with a delicately feminine close. Viard is not reinventing the wheel but she’s doing something equally as impressive, she’s keeping it spinning.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

MIU MIU SS24

This season, Miuccia Prada takes us to school, more precisely summer school. For Miu Miu’s Spring Summer 2024 collection, the Italian designer elaborates upon the brand’s preppy aesthetic.

 The show opened with navy blazers paired with blue checkered shirts and polos tucked into swim shorts. The no-pant look Miu Miu has become synonymous with felt surprisingly natural. Maybe it was the model’s wet hair. Perhaps it was the fogged-up glasses. But Prada made us believe in a private school by the seaside, where students dip into the ocean between classes.

 Leather sets with bandana tops and low-rise skirts stood out in the collection, appearing in black and mustard yellow versions. The classic Miu Miu embroidery first materializes in a golden dress with a plunging neckline, quickly followed by a turtleneck dress with flowers of the same shade against a dark background.

 Troye Sivan, Cailee Spaeny and Mame Bineta Sane: this season’s runway was a who’s who of fashion darlings. One thing is clear, the main character wears Miu Miu.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

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