showreport
Martin Onufrowicz
CELINE SS25
showreport
Martin Onufrowicz
LOUIS VUITTON SS25
showreport
Martin Onufrowicz
LACOSTE SS25
showreport
Martin Onufrowicz
MIU MIU SS25
showreport
Martin Onufrowicz
VALENTINO SS25

EGONLAB FW24

For their ninth show, Egonlab presents a collection that cements the house codes while adding unexpected interest. Named "ONLY LOVERS LEFT ALIVE," the Fall/Winter 2024 offerings reinterpret the brand’s tailored punk aesthetic.

One thing can be expected from the Parisian brand: the silhouette is always a focal point. Oversized shoulders, defined waist, flared bottoms — Egonlab has a signature shape. This season was no different. The collection opened with a deliciously heavy jumpsuit that reflected the brand’s classic silhouette, followed by tightly tailored jackets that continued the same architectural narrative.

Despite its strong identity, Florentin Glémarec and Kevin Nompeix, the creative duo behind the brand, infuse elements of interest into every collection. This time in the shape of interestingly draped coats and pants, shirts that clung from golden neck hoops and invisible shirts with oversized labels that read “100% human.” The last reveals the brand’s commitment to highlighting mental health awareness, having recently partnered with the organization PSYCOM.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos



LOUIS VUITTON FW24

On the first day of Men's Paris Fashion Week, Pharrell Williams took us on a journey to a different Paris — Paris, Virginia. For Louis Vuitton’s Fall/Winter 2024 show, the American artist drew inspiration from his home state to present a particularly thematic collection.

It was a celebration of Americana, featuring cowhide Speedy bags, cowboy boots, and bolo ties, all viewed through the lens of Louis Vuitton’s savoir-faire. While the inspiration was obvious in some looks, it was more subtle in others. Turquoise buttons punctuated the more classic ensembles. Mindful of the proximity of Western aesthetics and Native American culture, Williams ensured an approach of appreciation rather than appropriation, collaborating with creative Dee Jay Two Bears of the Standing Rock Tribe on the accessories for the collection.

Despite its thematic focus, Williams' third collection for the Maison reaffirmed the house codes under his direction. Colourful Speedy bags appeared in aquamarine, orchid, and a sweet pink. Damoflage adorned classic trunks, suits, and trucker jackets.

As is customary for a Pharrell Williams production, the show was precisely that—a spectacle. The set projected images of the desert, and as the collection unfolded, the scenery gradually transformed, eventually releasing fake snow from the ceiling. The set list was impeccable, featuring four new songs with Pharrell and a host of other artists from the Standing Rock Tribe to Miley Cyrus.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

ZEGNA FW24

In Zegna’s latest show, models walked as cashmere flakes floated down from the ceiling, soothingly gathering in a pile at the start of the runway. Titled “In the Oasi of Cashmere”,  Alessandro Sartori’s latest collection was a masterclass on threading the fine line between design innovation and classic elegance. Recreating the “sala delle mischie”, a room in the brand’s headquarters where cashmere is blended, both the set and the name of Zegna’s Fall/Winter 2024 show was an ode to the luxurious fabric. 

One look after the other, Sartori’s ability to effortlessly layer fabric was beautifully illustrated. Tank tops were covered with layers of cashmere. Shirts were tucked in light jackets. Turtlenecks were paired with oversized ribbed coats. These combinations created interesting yet classic silhouettes, feeling effortlessly light despite the overlaying of garments. Lush jumpers with three-quarter sleeves stood out, paired with long thick gloves, perfectly hiding any evidence of skin.

The leather was buttery. The cashmere was soft. The colour palette was delightful, ranging from wonderful warm neutrals to colder pastel tones. Organically evolving from his previous work, Sartori delivered one of the standouts of Milan’s Men’s Fashion Week.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

TOD'S FW24

In the fast-paced world of fashion, Tod's once again bet it all on tradition and craftsmanship with its Fall/Winter 2024 menswear collection. The palette is a sophisticated symphony of earthy tones and muted neutrals, reflecting the season's essence. The concept of quiet luxury has been seen all over our social media feeds for quite a while now and doesn’t seem to be going away. That’s precisely what Tod’s excels at. The accent is definitely placed on quality and wearability in this collection featuring simple, razor-sharp cuts in the highest-quality materials. Jackets and trousers are crafted from buttery-smooth leather and paired with sartorial essentials. The carefully selected hues and the focus on everyday “basics” showcase the brand's commitment to creating pieces that transcend fleeting trends.

Following the departure of ex-artistic director Walter Chiapponi to Blumarine, Tod’s is reaffirming the brand's status as a purveyor of timeless style. The brand circled back to its roots throughout this transitional phase and unveiled the PASHMY project: a search for the most exclusive and precious materials allied to the craftsmanship know-how of companies dedicated to maintaining Italian quality standards. Tod's continues to prove that there is an enduring beauty in embracing traditions. Don’t get me wrong, the brand’s staple style is modern and far from feeling nostalgic. The fashion is highly wearable and proves that instilling traditional crafts in a collection isn’t necessarily estranged from capturing the mood of the time – if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it, after all.

Words by Marien Brandon

JW ANDERSON FW24

If there’s one thing Jonathan Anderson masters, it is the ability to transform an artist’s work and translate it into wearable garments. Just in the past seasons, he’s adapted the work of choreographer Michael Clark for his namesake label’s Fall/Winter 2023 and sculptor Lynda Benglis for Loewe’s last menswear collection. So, when hours before JW Anderson’s Menswear Fall/Winter 2024, the designer posted an Instagram story with a screenshot of Stanley Kubrick’s “Eyes Wide Shut”, our ears perked up. Might it be a teaser? Well, obviously. What walked down the runway was a collection that was brimming with the movie’s sexual tension but that retained the designer’s signature flair.

For the show’s first look, the Irish designer fulfilled an inescapable prophecy: the no-pants trend has reached menswear. Models walked out in oversized knit jumpers and sheer black tights with what some call built-in shorts that suspiciously resemble control top pantyhose. The otherwise simple sweaters are paired with enormous poinsettia flowers on the lapel. 

If only the sexual tension of the movie is conveyed at first, the source material becomes increasingly apparent as the collection progresses. The paintings seen on the walls of the movie’s set, all done by the director’s wife, Christiane Kubrick, find their way into pompous blouses and knit dresses. 

Anderson’s surrealist flair isn’t absent, playing with extremes on the runway. Looks that consist only of the aforementioned tights are followed by cartoonishly oversized outfits. There’s a return of one of the brand’s favourites in the ruffled skorts, this time in fine knit with contrasting silk hems.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

JORDANLUCA FW24

For JORDANLUCA Fall/Winter 2024 show, Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto tapped into their respective heritage to weave references together, merging Italian tailoring with nods to subcultures and punk Britishness. From the techno soundtrack to the industrial location, the tone is set: it will be a celebration – a rave or a birthday party perhaps? Balloons featuring artworks from Dominic Myatt fill the room and act as the starting point of the narrative. Indeed, balloons are synonyms of nostalgia, an object linked to childhood memories, a fragile momentum which quickly vanishes as they pop or fly away. Here, they inform us that the party is over, but hope remains.

The show is opened by impeccable tailored silhouettes. The strictness of those looks is balanced by details borrowed from British subcultures. Cufflinks are dangerously spiky and trousers can be unzipped all the way to the back, while some are fully backless. As the show progresses, tailoring fades away as rave staple looks appear. A leather coat paired with leather boots is modelled by a mohawked Andreas Kronthaler, Vivienne Westwood’s partner and current creative director. Circular cutouts on the garments are mirroring the polka dots from the balloons. The silhouettes are oozing nods to subcultures, rough around the edges, but the mood of the collection isn't dark. It’s a party after all. JORDANLUCA invite us to live in the now with a collection filled with cultural references. London meets Milan, resulting in an ode to the outcasts, to vulnerability.

Words by Marien Brandon

PRADA FW24

There is always depth in a Prada show. Clothes are utilized by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons as instruments to illustrate intellectual concepts. When attendees walked into an office space with glass tiles that revealed a natural landscape, they knew they were in for a treat. So, they sat on their swivel chairs and prepared to be fed, cerebrally that is. 

Continuing their exploration of workwear, the brand’s menswear Fall/Winter 2024 collection reflects the dissonance between office work and nature. Seeking to establish a dialogue, a slew of tailored jackets and trousers appeared, all paired with swim caps. If the neutral suits ranged from deep navy to smoky brown, the tight caps fluctuated between Prada’s rainbow colours — deep purple, bright red, disconcerting green. 

Beyond the swimming headgear, accessories were a focal point of the collection. Oversized belts were intricately stylized, used both at the hip to hold low-rise trousers and over blazers, creating a silhouette reminiscent of the brand’s past menswear collection. 

After a brief nautical dive, with double-breasted coats and bomber jackets with shiny gold buttons, the collection’s last section returned to office wear. In what is the perfect iteration of business casual, the show ended with matching denim trousers, shirts and ties.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

EMPORIO ARMANI FW24

Upon a sea of darkness, a light suddenly shines. The Emporio Armani Fall/Winter 2024 show starts before any clothes make it down the runway. A black lighthouse shines as Loredana Berte’s voice sings “Il Mare D’inverno”. The first look reveals the nautical theme isn’t a mere set decoration, it’s the through line for the collection we’re about to witness. A thick navy coat with precious gold buttons is topped with a stylized sailor hat.

The theme is prevalent in the first section of the collection, with sailor collars and white and navy stripes galore — all through the lens of Armani’s sophistication. Eventually, the nautical narrative waned, giving way to boxy jackets in tones of grey and taupe. 

After a brief excursion into skiwear, the Italian house’s staples appeared. Beautifully tailored suits and leather ensembles appeared, with neckerchiefs that tied them to the lighthouse still radiating in the back. 

Speaking on the collection, Mr. Armani references the Atlantic crossing, taking inspiration from the bravery necessary to crossover. Perhaps a parallel to the journey he made to turn him into a legend of menswear. A status that is reinforced with his latest collection.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

FENDI FW24

What do Silvia Venturini Fendi and Princess Anne have in common? That is, besides being influential women from royal families (the first proverbially monarchic, the second literally). Surprisingly, their fashion inclination. For Fendi’s latest menswear collection, the Italian designer took inspiration from the princess’ wardrobe, effortlessly encapsulating rural femininity.  

Kilts in earthy neutrals offset waterproof wax jackets. Delicate knit cardigans juxtapose flat-front checked skorts. As usual, the accessories reign king from top to bottom. From wax hats that pointed us directly to the source of inspiration, through the oversized bags, all the way to Wellington boots on the feet. 

Never one to dismiss heritage, Venturini Fendi cleverly rethinks the fabrics most associated with the Roman brand. For Fall/Winter 2024, leather is utilized in decadent wide-leg trousers. Suede is made to resemble pillowy corduroy that bounces as models zigzag around elongated brushed steel FF monograms. 

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

MSGM FW24

Massimo Giorgetti latest offering for his brand MSGM was an ode to the fast-paced rhythm of his home base, Milan. The show took place at Porta Venezia, a metro station celebrating 60 years since its inauguration in 1964. In an Instagram post released before the collection, Giorgetti spoke about the resonance of the transportation network in the context of the city’s social landscape, writing: “It is the moving space where the city’s energies converge like invisible rivers, the great social equaliser where differences dissolve, in the constant noise of trains travelling towards a shared destiny.”

 

When it came to the clothes, Giorgetti’s nods to his favourite mode of transportation were in abundance – from the vibrant colour accents that referenced the signage of the metro lines to the prints on silk shirts and shorts showcasing images from the stations. The collection was an exercise in excellence when it came to desirability, with roomy wool coats in red and camel, glistening fuzzy knits and shiny puffer sets being particular standouts. Giorgetti’s signature humorous approach to accessories was this season explored with chunky Mary Janes, furry scarfs and speedy sunglasses – perfect for making you look a lot more alive during your next morning commute.

Words by Martin Onufrowicz

DOLCE & GABBANA FW24

For the past couple of seasons, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have been going back to their roots and presenting a more streamlined vision of the D&G man. This tendency continued with today’s FW24 show, aptly titled ‘SLEEK’ – the double-breasted coats were cut to perfection and the tailoring was as sharp as ever. Even the jeans – worn with silk blouses, velour jackets and a decadent (faux) fur coat – were crafted with incredible precision, making them appropriate attire for refined evening occasions. Many of the looks were adorned with an accessory that is quickly becoming one of the items of the season – a silk tie, here paired with wool coats and sequined jackets or used as a bow on top of a button closing the blazer. With their latest offering, one thing is clear: D&G remain the masters of creating garments filled with elegance and sensuality.  

Words by Martin Onufrowicz

GUCCI FW24

“Ogni tanto, lo so, sogni anche tu, e sogni di noi” (“Every now and then, I know, you dream too, and you dream of us”). The artist Valerio Eliogabalo Torrisi’s words painted a wall in Milan in preparation for the Gucci Fall/Winter 2024 menswear show. Coincidentally, that’s all we’ve been doing for the past few days, dreaming of Sabato De Sarno’s second collection. Or rather, after Gucci’s new (Ancora) red-hot campaign, wet dreaming. 

We hoped De Sarno’s first menswear offering would carry the same sensuality. Our prayers were heard. But, much like his earlier debut, the Italian designer defines sexy on his terms. Heavy chains grasped the models’ necks while their chests were exposed under heavy coats. Jackets were worn with nothing underneath except for ties with clasps that gave them a collar-like quality.   

The show opened with a familiar sight, a male counterpart to the opening look of his debut womenswear collection. Between cement pillars of the venue, a similarly neutral palette emerged, interrupted only by subtle pops of colour. Leather gloves, both in muted lime green and the now characteristic cherry red matched the bags they grasped. 

Despite the sensual sobriety of the collection, there was an underlying opulence. Whether on the collar of oversized cardigans, on trousers or drowning a sailor collar, sparkle is a definite neutral in the designer’s book. 

De Sarno furthers his creative narrative with his second collection for the Italian heritage brand. In a show that acted as the brother to his womenswear debut, the designer reaffirms the new Gucci codes.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

ACHILLES ION GABRIEL FW24

When it was announced that Achilles Ion Gabriel would launch his namesake brand, there was a sense of general excitement. The Finnish designer has become synonymous with surrealist footwear throughout his tenure in the industry. But would he be able to expand his point of view upwards on the body? The answer: objectively yes. 

His Fall/Winter 2024 show was a natural extension of the creative vision he’s familiarized us with. The accessories and footwear were, as expected, a standout. Long belts adorned both the model’s waists and shoulder bags. Cowboy boots had metal tips that read “Move Bitch”. 

The Finnish designer started from the ground up, introducing wardrobe essentials with a Gabrielian twist. Wrinkled suits, shirts with detached collars and fur-lined denim jackets. Additionally, we got to see the birth of the brand’s codes —arguably the most compelling aspect of a debut collection. CAMPERLAB fans might recognize some of Gabriel’s staples: painted leather, cowhide and the grey-blue shade that now acts as the brand’s official colour, appropriately named AIG blue. 

If last season the industry’s game of moving chairs had set our standards low for debut shows, Achilles Ion Gabriel moved them back up.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

ANN DEMEULEMEESTER SS24

Change is in the air. Sabato de Sarno in Gucci, Louise Trotter for Carven, Peter Do in Helmut Lang. This season is one of fresh starts. The last new beginning of the fashion month came through the courtesy of Ann Demeulemeester. After last season’s controversy (Ludovic de Saint Sernin produced one collection before parting ways with the brand), it’s Stefano Gallici’s turn. The creative director has been with the house since 2020, working as a menswear designer.

 It’s clear that Gallici has different strategy than his predecessor, relying heavily on the brand’s DNA. For its Spring Summer 2024 collection, the designer made sure to reference Ann Demeulemeester’s tropes while adding a utilitarian flair. The presentation’s point of view was rooted in the brand’s 90s aesthetics.

 The bare skin of last season was replaced with the transparency of fabrics that mysteriously revealed the models' bodies as they moved. Sheer gowns, gender-neutral tailoring, satin dresses: all under a black and white palette only interrupted by bold blues.

 Gallici seemed to reply directly to Saint Sernin’s critics. The creative director’s debut collection is undoubtedly Ann Demeulemeester

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

LOUIS VUITTON SS24

The venue for Louis Vuitton’s Spring Summer 2024 presentation was wrapped in orange tarpaulin, a material often used on hot air balloons. And it didn’t just look cool. The scenario was also an allusion to the show’s inspiration: the old glamour of traveling. Nicolas Ghesquière took the theme to heart, producing clothes that can easily be packed in one of Louis Vuitton’s emblematic trunks.

 It wasn’t just the weight of the clothes, everything down to the way the fabric creased was considered. With that goal in mind, the collection opened with multi-layered chiffon skirts, the type of piece that remains flowy no matter how wrinkled it might get in a suitcase.

 Flowy tops, statement belts and shoulder pads: the collection was undoubtedly Ghesquière. The white tights used to accessorize some looks were a fan favorite online. Could this mean a renaissance for the piece?

 The standouts were the heavily embroidered yet somehow lightweight shirts and dresses. Bugle beads were used to create sophisticated patterns, most notoriously in two slip dresses towards the end of the show. The thin glass beads create a wet brilliance, giving the pieces a trance-inducing shine. Now all we need is a holiday as an excuse to pack them.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

CHANEL SS24

One thing was abundantly clear for Chanel’s Spring Summer 2024 collection: Virginie Viard is reinstating Coco Chanel’s legacy. The legendary designer is single-handedly responsible for the French girl chic aesthetic. Viard is updating her lexicon.

 Unlike her predecessor, Karl Lagerfeld, who had a knack for spectacles, Viard focuses on the clothes themselves. For her latest collection, the French designer references the Maison's history, taking inspiration from 1930s beachwear.

 The show opened with tweed jumpsuits and maxi dresses with plunging necklines, giving the fabric an expected sensuality. As the collection progressed, swimsuits appeared that, though appearing simple at first, were cleverly quilted to resemble the iconic Chanel bags.

 References to the brand’s DNA were frequent but not necessarily obvious. A pink-striped lightweight maxi dress was a clear reference to Coco Chanel’s own creations. Asymmetrical terrycloth sets stood out, proving the designer is willing to expand Chanel’s narrative. 

 Towards the end of the collection, transparency and florals reigned, providing the collection with a delicately feminine close. Viard is not reinventing the wheel but she’s doing something equally as impressive, she’s keeping it spinning.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

MIU MIU SS24

This season, Miuccia Prada takes us to school, more precisely summer school. For Miu Miu’s Spring Summer 2024 collection, the Italian designer elaborates upon the brand’s preppy aesthetic.

 The show opened with navy blazers paired with blue checkered shirts and polos tucked into swim shorts. The no-pant look Miu Miu has become synonymous with felt surprisingly natural. Maybe it was the model’s wet hair. Perhaps it was the fogged-up glasses. But Prada made us believe in a private school by the seaside, where students dip into the ocean between classes.

 Leather sets with bandana tops and low-rise skirts stood out in the collection, appearing in black and mustard yellow versions. The classic Miu Miu embroidery first materializes in a golden dress with a plunging neckline, quickly followed by a turtleneck dress with flowers of the same shade against a dark background.

 Troye Sivan, Cailee Spaeny and Mame Bineta Sane: this season’s runway was a who’s who of fashion darlings. One thing is clear, the main character wears Miu Miu.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

BALENCIAGA SS24

The Balenciaga show was a festival of icons – from French national treasure Isabelle Huppert reading an instruction on how to tailor a jacket in the soundtrack to fashion über-critic Cathy Horyn and queer legend Amanda Lepore walking the runway. In a similar spirit, the garments created by the house this season were a play on Demna’s instantly recognisable design codes – jackets were built with hyper-sized shoulders, trench coats were deconstructed and sneakers larger than clown shoes were paired with the tiniest of sweatsuits. The models seemed to be on a journey – carrying big travelling bags, wearing hotel bathrobes and furry slippers or even holding onto their passports and train tickets with the destination of Geneva (Demna’s home base). The purpose of their excursion? Yet unknown. But the clothes they are wearing will keep them protected whatever the reason might be.

Words by Martin Onufrowicz

VALENTINO SS23

For Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli, exploring the power of the feminine body was the focal point of his latest collection. In the show, presented at the Ecole des Beaux-Arts in Paris, the Italian designer showed his stance against the recently rising conservative moods in his home country of policing women’s bodies and blaming their appearance for harassment they may face.

The presentation opened with a series of intricate laser-cut dresses which strongly addressed this point. In these stand-out pieces, the decorative elements were treated as the basis of construction, with three-dimensional lilies and doves being interwoven together to create a garment.

The raw feminine energy was also felt in the fabrics chosen throughout  – thick linen was used to create a mini dress with cut-outs on the sides and a spectacular cape embellished with sirens, while silk became the basis of tailored suit jackets and floor-length t-shirt gowns with a slit going all the way to the hip bone.

As the models walked around the performance by Piccioli’s close collaborator, FKA Twigs – an artist so well-known for using her athletic physique in her hypnotic productions – his vision could not be clearer. At Valentino, the goal is to give women the ultimate freedom to express themselves in any way they please.

Words by Martin Onufrowicz

RICK OWENS SS24

“I still believe in love.” Diana Ross’ voice echoes through the courtyard of Palais de Tokyo. Through incessant repetition, Ross’ words become a chant. Yellow and fuchsia smoke, along with rose petals, fill the air. For his Spring Summer 2024 show, Rick Owens turned the Parisian venue into an archaic temple.

 The show opened with characteristic pieces. High-waisted jeans, bra tops and impossibly narrow fishtail gowns all in the typical black. But, as the collection progressed, its inspiration grew clearer: love. Shades of pink, red and orange gave the pieces a romantic essence.

 Pointed shoulders on bomber and leather jackets grew every time they came down the runway, eventually transforming into Venus fly trap collars, ready to consume the model’s head. Their black contact lenses added to the sensation that the procession these models were on was a sacrificial one.

 Impossibly draped dresses in shades of pink and red were magnificent, creating alien-like silhouettes. The collection ended with billowing bodysuits whose flowing capes meshed right into the colorful atmosphere of the show.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

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