In the sea of brown and beige hues that can usually be associated with Milan Fashion Week, Francesco Risso’s eccentric approach to fashion at Marni is always a very welcome element of the calendar. Oscillating between a fashion show and an art performance, the designer's latest offering for Fall/Winter 2025 was an exercise in unabashed freedom of expression.
In a space filled with canvases that Risso collaborated on with artists Olaolu Slawn and Soldier Boyfriend during their month-long residency The Pink Sun, quirky Marni characters strolled around the arranged cabaret room full of tables with Martini cocktails on them.
Risso’s signature colour-blocking and texture play were out in full force. Silk dresses in the most spectacular blue and canary yellow were adorned with grey and light pink fur trimmings. Ultra-sharp and slightly shrunken coats were accessorised with XL fur stoles wrapped around the models. Tailoring was another highlight – especially the double-breasted skirt suit in chocolate brown worn with snake-printed wedges and a pistachio green bag with matching snake-printed straps. Towards the end of the collection, Risso charmed us with silhouettes in vibrant scarlet – a suit embroidered with a depiction of a black wolf was a particularly poetic proposition.
Words by Martin Onufrowicz
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