On his fourth collection at the helm of Ann Demeulemeester, Stefano Gallici has calcified his approach to the brand. Unlike the majority of his generation, who see roles in different houses as ways to bolden their voice, he chooses to follow the beat and path. Romantic ruffles, raw edges, dark undertones—Gallici leans into the house’s established language rather than rewriting it.

This season, his vision felt more assured: flowing sheer shirts billowed under sharply tailored coats, distressed knits clung to the body, and leather pieces carried a worn-in sensuality. If past collections sometimes felt like reenactments, this one had an underlying conviction, a sense of ownership over the house’s aesthetic codes rather than deference to them. The balance between structure and fluidity was sharper, the interplay of textures richer.

Even in its stability, there was movement. Collars draped off shoulders with the kind of undone elegance that looks accidental but isn’t. The tension between precision and disarray was at its most distilled. It’s a commitment to quiet rebellion, not reinvention. And while some may long for a bolder departure, Gallici’s restraint proves that sometimes, refinement speaks louder than disruption. In embracing subtle evolution over radical change, he ensures that Ann Demeulemeester’s legacy endures—brooding, romantic, unmistakable.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

ANN DEMEULEMEESTER FW25

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