Plenty of fashion designers look to the future when creating, while others prefer to stare right into the past in search of inspiration. Miuccia Prada can do both, and both very well, but every now and then there is an opportunity for portraying the present, whatever that means in 2026, in her body of work. Mrs Prada’s Spring/Summer 2027 Miu Miu collection, “Here and Now,” is an exercise in just that.
And what represents our contemporaneity better than mixing, remixing, referencing, and self-referencing the way we wear clothes? In the form of 75 looks showcased on a royal purple catwalk set at the Parisian Palais D’Iéna, Mrs Prada proposed a closer encounter with our current, daily garments, so they could be recontextualised and elevated or improved; “an ambition to do better,” as explained in the show notes.
SS27 was eye candy for any Miu Miu aficionado, this writer included. Not just for its typically star-studded cast, which this year had Emma Corrin, Noah Jupe, Jamie Bell, and even Olivia Colman walk the show, but also for the range of key label codes that could be spotted, always used in a current way.
Zooming out, the collection was a blend of the classics – athleisure and sportswear, knits and vintage-looking items, leather and denim – with the regal: crystal embellishments, embroidered eveningwear, blouses, tailored suiting. Opposites that attract and evolve under Miuccia Prada’s Midas touch, creating something new.
Up close, elements such as the shoelaces, introduced initially during Spring/Summer 2024, are revisited and now spotted as denim detailing, skirts, dresses, and shoe fastenings, crossed and tied for a practical yet decorative and changeable effect.
In a collaboration with American denim brand Wrangler, heritage denim was reworked and upcycled, acknowledging circularity. Regarding both teaming up and shoelaces, SS27 also debuted the RC150 racing sneaker, marking Miu Miu’s fifth footwear partnership with New Balance.
Straight from the archives and redesigned for our day, age, and craving for a good brand revival were the geometric prints seen everywhere from blazer jackets, wrapped and cropped tops to swim trunks and criss-crossed halter dresses, referencing past collections such as Fall/Winter 2004, 2012, and 2015. Suede pieces were waxed and meant to crease, crack, and age over time, similar to the leather displayed during Spring/Summer 2026, intentionally crafted to seem lived in.
Bug-eye, oversized sunglasses gently nodded to Spring/Summer 2008, while chunky, crystal embellishments, another Miu Miu signature, this time appeared embroidered on the straps of silk tops and incorporated into more sporty silhouettes, also decorating babydoll mini dresses and pleated skirts.
On the theme of skirts, they’ve been all over Mrs Prada’s mind recently, as you might have heard. After this season’s Prada show in Milan, five different combos of pleated, knee-length plaid skirts opened SS27 at Miu Miu, with various other versions of the garment featured along the way. Expect to see them more often in everyday life; no one understands the concepts of here and now better than Miuccia Prada.
Words by Ketlyn Araujo
