showreport
Martin Onufrowicz
CELINE SS25
showreport
Martin Onufrowicz
LOUIS VUITTON SS25
showreport
Martin Onufrowicz
LACOSTE SS25
showreport
Martin Onufrowicz
MIU MIU SS25
showreport
Martin Onufrowicz
VALENTINO SS25

SACAI FW24

Season after season, Chitose Abe reminds us with her Sacai collections that she’s the unmatched master of outerwear. The Japanese designer knows no limits when it comes to creating garments that are equal parts imaginative and practical, and her offering for Fall/Winter 2024 was no exception. Abe thrives in constructing interesting proportions, and this time around, the silhouette was elongated. The voluminous black bomber was worn on top of a long coat and paired with flowy trousers. A classic navy duffle coat was given a Sacai touch by having its fastenings tilted to the side. A double-breasted pinstripe jacket was teamed up with a matching skirt and trousers. The looks were accessorised with incredibly desirable faux-fur accents, from collars and tightly-tied dangling scarfs to a stand-out chunky clogs/boots hybrid - a shoe of the season!

Words by Martin Onufrowicz

GMBH FW24

The GmbH Fall/Winter 2024 show was opened by a heartfelt speech given by co-founders Serhat Işik and Benjamin Alexander Huseby, calling for a ceasefire in Palestine. The Berlin-based duo both come from a mixed cultural and religious background and their brand GmbH, born on the dancefloors of the German capital, has been supported from the start by the tight and diverse community of the techno scene. The brand’s collections are known to be political and offer a platform for voices to be heard internationally. In fact, this isn’t the first time that Işik and Huseby have shown their support for Palestinians as they previously released a “Free Palestine” capsule collection in 2021. In a time where the norm is to be politically correct, calling for peace is a mark of bravery.

The collection is an emotional piece as well as a political commentary. The show is opened by one of the GmbH signature tailored silhouettes. This time, the collar of the black jacket is inspired by the shape of a keffiyeh, a black and white checkered scarf symbolizing Palestinian unity. This look is followed by a hoodie featuring a faded version of the United Nations logo and the slogan “Untitled Nations” printed on its back – the tone is set. The keffiyeh collar mentioned previously is present in numerous looks, sometimes in its original checkered pattern. The fashion encapsulates the utilitarian and techno roots of the brand as numerous of their “icons” have been reworked this season with newer textures such as a mock-croc used on a double-zipped trouser and squared-toe boots. The casting of models includes friends and family members of Işik and Huseby, including fashion designer Dilara Fındıkoğlu – some are protected by balaclavas. A T-shirt adorned with a slice of watermelon acts as a final homage to the Palestinian people. Indeed, the fruit shares its colours with the Palestinian flag. Again, Işik and Huseby are here to remind us that the only answer is peace.

Words by Marien Brandon

BALMAIN FW24

With his latest Balmain Menswear offering for Fall/Winter 2024, Olivier Rousteing showcased his take on the always-compelling merge of fashion and art. The collection started with a wink (or kiss) to the audience. The opening looks – a crystal-embellished top, a white shirt with a matching tie, and a red and black printed total look – all featured surrealist depictions of lips, a well-known signature of the French designer. Following this humorous beginning, the collection went towards Rousteing’s explorations of his African roots, with vibrant silhouettes referencing La Sape, a Congolese dandy movement, and vivid painterly looks created in collaboration with the Ghana-based artist, Prince Gyasi. This part of the show provided an incredibly moving stand-out moment when one of the artist’s works, printed on a matching set, was brought to life by three models following behind. Never shy to embrace maximalism, with his latest collection, Rousteing proved once again that he always finds creative and touching ways to show that more is indeed more.

Words by Martin Onufrowicz

VALENTINO FW24

Maintaining the standard he has set for himself, Pierpaolo Piccioli presented a Valentino menswear show that revolved around the colour of the sky. Appropriately named Le Ciel, the collection reflects on the changing ideals of masculinity.

Initially most closely associated with femininity, blue has grown to be the identifying colour of the male gender. For Valentino’s menswear Fall/Winter 2024 show, Piccioli once again utilizes colour to deepen the meaning of clothes. Vibrant hues serve to subvert traditional masculinity in clever ways.

Before the introduction of the theme that centres the collection, the Italian designer started with multiple monochromatic black looks. Following its main inspiration, colour started to gradually appear on the catwalk. First, just as a pop of pink but eventually, as the sun rose, intense burgundies are paired with light pastel shades. Masterfully blending hues, looks that complement muted lilacs with deep reds stand out.

Eventually, as the show progresses, the protagonist appears. Shy at first, present only in turtlenecks, blue takes the main stage towards the middle of the collection. Before we know it, vibrant iterations of the shade possess entire looks, from sparkly oversized polo shirts to sailor collar knits.

Vivid turtlenecks hide behind tailoring. Unexpected sparkles monopolize Harrington jackets. The “Altorilievo” technique introduced in the last womenswear collection is revived in a grey coat. In a show that tackles the complexities of modern masculinity, subverting suiting was a clear priority.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

KENZO FW24

External inspiration is expected in any given collection. Just this menswear season, we've had JW Anderson’s take on Eyes Wide Shut, Emporio Armani’s allusions to transatlantic travel, and even Gucci referencing their last womenswear collection. Even so, Kenzo’s Fall/Winter 2024 point of reference was surprising, drawing inspiration from the Star Wars saga.

If the previous statement conjures up images of copyrighted characters on printed jerseys, one will need to be blindly unaware of Nigo’s work. For his fifth collection for Kenzo, the Japanese designer was inspired not by the iconography of the films but by the methodology of its costume design. Drawing inspiration from Eastern Asian garments, the reference points for its costumes were masterfully blurred.

Echoing this approach, Nigo sought to infuse historic Japanese garments into Kenzo’s offerings without summoning immediate comparisons. Firefighter uniforms from the Edo Period transformed into cleverly geometric prints. Rigid denim suits replicated the style of Japanese school uniforms. Karakusa prints were abstracted into embroideries on bags.

At times, and particularly with the few womenswear looks sprinkled throughout the collection, the source material is more evident. Gold catsuits were worn underneath dresses, teasing a C-3PO reference. Heavy brown robes draw immediate comparisons to Jedi uniforms. Ultimately, the collection was a sophisticated take on Kenzo’s usual offerings, projecting an exciting future for the brand’s legacy.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

RICK OWENS FW24

Rick Owens remains in a lane of his own. For his Fall/Winter 2024 show, the designer presented a pared-down collection — a reaction to what he calls the "barbaric times we're living in." Unlike his previous shows, often staged in the grand Palais de Tokyo, this season the designer invited a select few to his Paris home, where he showcased an intimate offering.

Guests were invited for a metaphorical and literal homecoming. Named "Porterville," the collection shares a name with the town where the American designer grew up. The show featured Owens’ staples: bulbous puffer jackets, massively disproportionate leather jackets, and restrictive hairy loops. However, the immediate standout from the collection was the inflatable boots. These extraordinary pieces, which brought an added futuristic spirit to the collection, were prophesied by the designer as utopian hopes.

The monstrous proportions of Owens’ designs were magnified, in response to what the designer states as "the most disappointing human behaviour we will witness in our lifetime."

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

LOEWE FW24

Muses are often perceived as female figures. Leave it to Jonathan Anderson to subvert this notion. For Loewe’s Fall/Winter 2024 show, the venue transformed into a sanctified space, adorned with moving stained glass windows depicting Anderson’s greatest muses.

The effervescently colourful moving displays were mirrored in bags, trousers, zip-up hoodies and maxi dresses — all crafted in collaboration with the artist Richard Hawkins, renowned for his vivid homoerotic collages.

Anderson’s omnipresent surreal twists manifested in the form of all-in-one looks that seamlessly combined pants, socks, and shoes. Speaking backstage, the Irish designer referenced the inescapable impotence of modern media as his inspiration for these pieces. This concept was further explored in extraordinarily elongated pussy-bow blouses that challenged modern definitions of masculinity.

The collection delivered the final blow to the notion that we must wear pants in wintertime. Building on the absence of trousers from this season’s JW Anderson’s show, models strutted in coats that just reached above the knee, baring their legs. Bundle up, it'll be a cold boy winter.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

DIOR MEN FW24

In Kim Jones' Dior, collaborations reign supreme. However, for the Maison’s menswear Fall/Winter 2024 collection, inspiration came directly from the British designer’s bloodline. Renowned photographer Colin Jones often collaborated with ballet dancer Rudolf Nureyev. Sixty years later, his nephew referenced the performer through the Dior lens.

Ballet flats, crumpled berets, A-line shorts: the collection felt like a luxurious take on the imagination of a ballet dancer. Inspired by Nureyev’s style both on and off stage, the offering exuded an elegant simplicity. It was wonderfully neutral, except for the occasional pop of colour. Jones’ interpretation of a dancer’s wardrobe is ironically vivid.

Arguably the most exciting aspect of the collection came at its tail end. No, not the rotating structure that had the models centrifugally spinning, but its couture capsule. After seasons of teasing a couture collection for men, Jones finally pulled the trigger. Crystal-embellished knit cardigans, unbelievably ostentatious kimonos – it was a definite feast. In an industry that still ties men’s elegance with ties, Jones dared to dream a little bigger. The collection's pinnacle came with Debussy gown-inspired embellishments on transparent blouses and matching sets.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

LGN LOUIS GABRIEL NOUCHI FW24

If there are two things we can expect from a Louis Gabriel Nouchi collection, it’s literary references and sexual tension. His Fall/Winter 2024 show was no different. Titled BEL AMI, the French designer drew inspiration from the classic Guy de Maupassant novel of the same name. The story follows Georges Duroy, a journalist's corrupt rise to power through the manipulation of his sexuality.

The show’s theme was taken to heart, from its location – a hollowed-out bank – to its accessories. The symbol of the coin was central to the collection, featured in ties, shoes and rings, but perhaps most effectively in bracelets that, when tucked into trousers, gave the illusion of coins spilling out.

Besides the literal interpretations, the opulence of the social climbing story was shown in clever ways. The luxury of fur was evoked through patterns that cleverly mimicked it. Long, thick coats dragged on the floor as the models walked, often with nothing but underwear and a tie underneath.

The brand's classic tropes were on full display. Tailored pieces emphasized the shoulders of their wearers while reducing their waists. Loungewear pieces were translucent, even sexy. The strong hints of sexuality throughout the collection were only enhanced by the impeccable casting LGN is known for. In an industry that often skirts discussions around male body representation, the Parisian brand leads by example.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

DRIES VAN NOTEN FW24

Dries Van Noten's Fall/Winter 2024 Menswear collection appears as a quite minimalistic stance from the designer, known for his mixes of animal patterns and usage of shimmery materials. This season, Dries reflects on contrasting notions and explores the bridges between tradition and modernity, rusticity and refinement. Indeed, the Belgian designer tends to reference techniques and imagery from the past to create contemporary design, finding elegance in the unexpected. In this collection, the clash between dichotomic concepts resulted in harmony. 

The show started with neatly structured looks. Coats are long, layered on top of shaggy oversized knits and paired with black leather opera gloves, elongating the silhouette. Heritage fabrics from British mills and military materials are used together in the tailored looks of the show – once again, contrasting. The second half of the collection introduces colours and modern textures such as light-blue washed denim, used in a trench coat or a double-breasted blazer. The colour palette is surprisingly composed of muted tones. Acidic hues of corals, yellows and greens slowly appear alongside pixelated prints which feel aged and distorted. Safety pins are used as brooches, referencing the underground scene of the nineties – the era of the emergence of the Antwerp Six, and Dries himself.

Words by Marien Brandon

ACNE STUDIOS FW24

Acne Studios Fall/Winter 2024 Menswear collection, shot on American musician Yves Tumor, is a celebration of denim culture. The street-tough, masculine, leather-wearing archetype of the biker is transformed into a cyber-biker. In a Tom of Finland-esque turn of events, this traditional figure of masculinity becomes androgynous, shapeshifting and grunge. Leather jackets are seen throughout the collection paired with t-shirts featuring kitten prints or psychedelic patterns. This take on the grunge aesthetic is a signature of the Acne style which playfully gives a vintage or used appearance to new garments. Denim trousers seem worn out, covered in dirt or printed with chains, bows and accessories in a style reminiscent of DIY. Denims are adorned with prints, while on the flip side, UGG-like boots and leather bags are made of denim trompe-l’oeil. That’s the Acne paradox.

The collection is provocative and sexy, as well as cool and comfortable. “Denim, inherently, has a rebellious aura. It’s provocative, it’s rugged,” says Jonny Johansson. It is always appreciable to see a designer stick to what they do best. In Acne’s case, the styling is very unique and thoughtful, almost confusing sometimes. Fluffy faux fur hats with cat ears, mittens and scarves are inspired by Kawaii street-style culture while biker looks are influenced by sporty ski elements in the way they are worn. This avant-garde mix of references takes a trained eye to understand. If you know, you know…

Words by Marien Brandon

GIVENCHY FW24

In the first Givenchy show after Matthew Williams’s departure, the in-house team designed a collection inspired by the founder of the Maison, Hubert de Givenchy. For the Men’s Fall/Winter 2024, the brand gave us modern classics with a couture twist. 

It wasn’t just the clothes themselves that took inspiration from Givenchy’s founder. Its presentation saw a return to form to shows of his time. In the historic salons at 3 Avenue George V, men’s fashion editors sat at café tables, noting the absence of celebrity appearances that have become the standard. 

The collection opens with a direct reference to Mr. Givenchy himself. The blouse blanche, the designer’s uniform in his studio, is reinterpreted. Elegantly minimalist, the first look sets the tone of the collection. Tailored coats and jackets with added twists followed. If some suits reveal the model’s bare arms, horse tails cover some coats.

Despite some hints of camp, particularly with the cat motifs that honoured the founder’s pet, the collection is proudly minimalist. So distant from Matthew William’s vision for the brand, might this be an omen to Givenchy’s future?

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

BURC AKYOL FW24

Burç Akyol’s collections are always filled with genuine emotion and his latest offering for Fall/Winter 2024 was no exception. Titled “Made in Dreux”, the show is a reflection of the designer’s 90s upbringing in the town located about 80 km outside of Paris. Growing up in a place where fashion was not nearly as present as in the nearby metropolis, Akyol’s affection for finding beauty in everyday life was stronger than the instinct to fit in – leading him to move to the capital and successfully climb the steps of the fashion ladder. The collection became a love letter to this desire, expressed through his ingenious creativity. Classic garments are developed into statement pieces. The opening look – a black wool coat – is cropped and constructed with a dramatic elongated front panel. A shearling jacket is transformed into an asymmetric cape. A zip-up knit is given a long tail reminiscent of black tie tuxedos. Alongside the more avant-garde pieces, Akyol also shows that he’s the master of creating desirable daytime garments with a twist, with a deconstructed Oxford shirt and jeans with black panelling being particular standouts.

Words by Martin Onufrowicz

EGONLAB FW24

For their ninth show, Egonlab presents a collection that cements the house codes while adding unexpected interest. Named "ONLY LOVERS LEFT ALIVE," the Fall/Winter 2024 offerings reinterpret the brand’s tailored punk aesthetic.

One thing can be expected from the Parisian brand: the silhouette is always a focal point. Oversized shoulders, defined waist, flared bottoms — Egonlab has a signature shape. This season was no different. The collection opened with a deliciously heavy jumpsuit that reflected the brand’s classic silhouette, followed by tightly tailored jackets that continued the same architectural narrative.

Despite its strong identity, Florentin Glémarec and Kevin Nompeix, the creative duo behind the brand, infuse elements of interest into every collection. This time in the shape of interestingly draped coats and pants, shirts that clung from golden neck hoops and invisible shirts with oversized labels that read “100% human.” The last reveals the brand’s commitment to highlighting mental health awareness, having recently partnered with the organization PSYCOM.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos



LOUIS VUITTON FW24

On the first day of Men's Paris Fashion Week, Pharrell Williams took us on a journey to a different Paris — Paris, Virginia. For Louis Vuitton’s Fall/Winter 2024 show, the American artist drew inspiration from his home state to present a particularly thematic collection.

It was a celebration of Americana, featuring cowhide Speedy bags, cowboy boots, and bolo ties, all viewed through the lens of Louis Vuitton’s savoir-faire. While the inspiration was obvious in some looks, it was more subtle in others. Turquoise buttons punctuated the more classic ensembles. Mindful of the proximity of Western aesthetics and Native American culture, Williams ensured an approach of appreciation rather than appropriation, collaborating with creative Dee Jay Two Bears of the Standing Rock Tribe on the accessories for the collection.

Despite its thematic focus, Williams' third collection for the Maison reaffirmed the house codes under his direction. Colourful Speedy bags appeared in aquamarine, orchid, and a sweet pink. Damoflage adorned classic trunks, suits, and trucker jackets.

As is customary for a Pharrell Williams production, the show was precisely that—a spectacle. The set projected images of the desert, and as the collection unfolded, the scenery gradually transformed, eventually releasing fake snow from the ceiling. The set list was impeccable, featuring four new songs with Pharrell and a host of other artists from the Standing Rock Tribe to Miley Cyrus.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

ZEGNA FW24

In Zegna’s latest show, models walked as cashmere flakes floated down from the ceiling, soothingly gathering in a pile at the start of the runway. Titled “In the Oasi of Cashmere”,  Alessandro Sartori’s latest collection was a masterclass on threading the fine line between design innovation and classic elegance. Recreating the “sala delle mischie”, a room in the brand’s headquarters where cashmere is blended, both the set and the name of Zegna’s Fall/Winter 2024 show was an ode to the luxurious fabric. 

One look after the other, Sartori’s ability to effortlessly layer fabric was beautifully illustrated. Tank tops were covered with layers of cashmere. Shirts were tucked in light jackets. Turtlenecks were paired with oversized ribbed coats. These combinations created interesting yet classic silhouettes, feeling effortlessly light despite the overlaying of garments. Lush jumpers with three-quarter sleeves stood out, paired with long thick gloves, perfectly hiding any evidence of skin.

The leather was buttery. The cashmere was soft. The colour palette was delightful, ranging from wonderful warm neutrals to colder pastel tones. Organically evolving from his previous work, Sartori delivered one of the standouts of Milan’s Men’s Fashion Week.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

TOD'S FW24

In the fast-paced world of fashion, Tod's once again bet it all on tradition and craftsmanship with its Fall/Winter 2024 menswear collection. The palette is a sophisticated symphony of earthy tones and muted neutrals, reflecting the season's essence. The concept of quiet luxury has been seen all over our social media feeds for quite a while now and doesn’t seem to be going away. That’s precisely what Tod’s excels at. The accent is definitely placed on quality and wearability in this collection featuring simple, razor-sharp cuts in the highest-quality materials. Jackets and trousers are crafted from buttery-smooth leather and paired with sartorial essentials. The carefully selected hues and the focus on everyday “basics” showcase the brand's commitment to creating pieces that transcend fleeting trends.

Following the departure of ex-artistic director Walter Chiapponi to Blumarine, Tod’s is reaffirming the brand's status as a purveyor of timeless style. The brand circled back to its roots throughout this transitional phase and unveiled the PASHMY project: a search for the most exclusive and precious materials allied to the craftsmanship know-how of companies dedicated to maintaining Italian quality standards. Tod's continues to prove that there is an enduring beauty in embracing traditions. Don’t get me wrong, the brand’s staple style is modern and far from feeling nostalgic. The fashion is highly wearable and proves that instilling traditional crafts in a collection isn’t necessarily estranged from capturing the mood of the time – if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it, after all.

Words by Marien Brandon

JW ANDERSON FW24

If there’s one thing Jonathan Anderson masters, it is the ability to transform an artist’s work and translate it into wearable garments. Just in the past seasons, he’s adapted the work of choreographer Michael Clark for his namesake label’s Fall/Winter 2023 and sculptor Lynda Benglis for Loewe’s last menswear collection. So, when hours before JW Anderson’s Menswear Fall/Winter 2024, the designer posted an Instagram story with a screenshot of Stanley Kubrick’s “Eyes Wide Shut”, our ears perked up. Might it be a teaser? Well, obviously. What walked down the runway was a collection that was brimming with the movie’s sexual tension but that retained the designer’s signature flair.

For the show’s first look, the Irish designer fulfilled an inescapable prophecy: the no-pants trend has reached menswear. Models walked out in oversized knit jumpers and sheer black tights with what some call built-in shorts that suspiciously resemble control top pantyhose. The otherwise simple sweaters are paired with enormous poinsettia flowers on the lapel. 

If only the sexual tension of the movie is conveyed at first, the source material becomes increasingly apparent as the collection progresses. The paintings seen on the walls of the movie’s set, all done by the director’s wife, Christiane Kubrick, find their way into pompous blouses and knit dresses. 

Anderson’s surrealist flair isn’t absent, playing with extremes on the runway. Looks that consist only of the aforementioned tights are followed by cartoonishly oversized outfits. There’s a return of one of the brand’s favourites in the ruffled skorts, this time in fine knit with contrasting silk hems.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

JORDANLUCA FW24

For JORDANLUCA Fall/Winter 2024 show, Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto tapped into their respective heritage to weave references together, merging Italian tailoring with nods to subcultures and punk Britishness. From the techno soundtrack to the industrial location, the tone is set: it will be a celebration – a rave or a birthday party perhaps? Balloons featuring artworks from Dominic Myatt fill the room and act as the starting point of the narrative. Indeed, balloons are synonyms of nostalgia, an object linked to childhood memories, a fragile momentum which quickly vanishes as they pop or fly away. Here, they inform us that the party is over, but hope remains.

The show is opened by impeccable tailored silhouettes. The strictness of those looks is balanced by details borrowed from British subcultures. Cufflinks are dangerously spiky and trousers can be unzipped all the way to the back, while some are fully backless. As the show progresses, tailoring fades away as rave staple looks appear. A leather coat paired with leather boots is modelled by a mohawked Andreas Kronthaler, Vivienne Westwood’s partner and current creative director. Circular cutouts on the garments are mirroring the polka dots from the balloons. The silhouettes are oozing nods to subcultures, rough around the edges, but the mood of the collection isn't dark. It’s a party after all. JORDANLUCA invite us to live in the now with a collection filled with cultural references. London meets Milan, resulting in an ode to the outcasts, to vulnerability.

Words by Marien Brandon

PRADA FW24

There is always depth in a Prada show. Clothes are utilized by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons as instruments to illustrate intellectual concepts. When attendees walked into an office space with glass tiles that revealed a natural landscape, they knew they were in for a treat. So, they sat on their swivel chairs and prepared to be fed, cerebrally that is. 

Continuing their exploration of workwear, the brand’s menswear Fall/Winter 2024 collection reflects the dissonance between office work and nature. Seeking to establish a dialogue, a slew of tailored jackets and trousers appeared, all paired with swim caps. If the neutral suits ranged from deep navy to smoky brown, the tight caps fluctuated between Prada’s rainbow colours — deep purple, bright red, disconcerting green. 

Beyond the swimming headgear, accessories were a focal point of the collection. Oversized belts were intricately stylized, used both at the hip to hold low-rise trousers and over blazers, creating a silhouette reminiscent of the brand’s past menswear collection. 

After a brief nautical dive, with double-breasted coats and bomber jackets with shiny gold buttons, the collection’s last section returned to office wear. In what is the perfect iteration of business casual, the show ended with matching denim trousers, shirts and ties.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

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