The GmbH Fall/Winter 2024 show was opened by a heartfelt speech given by co-founders Serhat Işik and Benjamin Alexander Huseby, calling for a ceasefire in Palestine. The Berlin-based duo both come from a mixed cultural and religious background and their brand GmbH, born on the dancefloors of the German capital, has been supported from the start by the tight and diverse community of the techno scene. The brand’s collections are known to be political and offer a platform for voices to be heard internationally. In fact, this isn’t the first time that Işik and Huseby have shown their support for Palestinians as they previously released a “Free Palestine” capsule collection in 2021. In a time where the norm is to be politically correct, calling for peace is a mark of bravery.
The collection is an emotional piece as well as a political commentary. The show is opened by one of the GmbH signature tailored silhouettes. This time, the collar of the black jacket is inspired by the shape of a keffiyeh, a black and white checkered scarf symbolizing Palestinian unity. This look is followed by a hoodie featuring a faded version of the United Nations logo and the slogan “Untitled Nations” printed on its back – the tone is set. The keffiyeh collar mentioned previously is present in numerous looks, sometimes in its original checkered pattern. The fashion encapsulates the utilitarian and techno roots of the brand as numerous of their “icons” have been reworked this season with newer textures such as a mock-croc used on a double-zipped trouser and squared-toe boots. The casting of models includes friends and family members of Işik and Huseby, including fashion designer Dilara Fındıkoğlu – some are protected by balaclavas. A T-shirt adorned with a slice of watermelon acts as a final homage to the Palestinian people. Indeed, the fruit shares its colours with the Palestinian flag. Again, Işik and Huseby are here to remind us that the only answer is peace.
Words by Marien Brandon