The Emporio Armani SS27 show was the last one for Leo Dell’Orco and Silvana Armani. From now on, it will be Dario Vitale who will imprint his vision on the brand. In their final rendition of Emporio Armani, the designer duo offered a vision that feels timeless yet distinctly contemporary, rooted in the brand’s mission to remain desirable while staying faithful to its own conception of style.
Loose and breathable fabrics, such as linen and organza, are seen throughout the collection. The silhouettes remain classic, but the play with proportions and textured fabrics gives them a very modern feel.
Accessories are scarce throughout the collection. This simplicity is refreshing, allowing the eye to focus on the fabrics, the construction and the details. The colour palette is restrained, with black, white, navy, indigo and grey leading the collection, while the styling remains largely monochromatic.
The collection plays with the concept of time, specifically the traces it leaves on objects. To explore this idea, salt crystals were used to transform fabrics, giving them a raw finish that disrupts the otherwise classic and soft look. Distressed fabrics further evoke the marks and imperfections left by time, introducing a sense of erosion and fragility into the offering.The collection also plays with layering and the characteristic simplicity of Armani through elegant silhouettes. Layering becomes a creative medium to express individuality through clothing, while elegance is conveyed through suits, some of them crafted in organza for a more relaxed approach.
Evening looks are distinguished by beading on sheer fabrics, creating a femininity that never becomes overtly sensual, but rather reflects the restrained elegance characteristic of the brand.
Words by Carolina Benjumea
