Moving forward, the Armani Group does not seem scared of the future. Such proof is Dario Vitale, appointed earlier this month as creative director of Emporio Armani and Giorgio Armani Accessories, the first to ever do so outside the Armani family. The premise, yet, is more about evolving than completely transforming. Rather, in good Italian, it’s “Evoluzione”, as Silvana Armani purposefully chose to name her Giorgio Armani Spring/Summer 2027 womenswear collection, the designer’s sophomore ready-to-wear lineup for the label.
She continued her journey to master the sweet spot between honouring heritage and legacy while still looking ahead, something she'd done since day one in the role. Last Sunday, a few Giorgio Armani traditions endured, among them the habit of opening the catwalk with slightly more casual pieces and ending the show with striking formal and eveningwear. All-time brand favourites, shimmering fabrics, sparkling embroidery, and sleek, sharp tailoring, too, served as stalwarts.
Butterfly motifs abound signalled the new era, while two distinctive looks paid direct homage to the late Mr Armani. A black, double-breasted suit paired with white gloves and a coordinating white rosette drew inspiration from a childhood photo of Giorgio Armani wearing his First Holy Communion attire, and a sequined, black-and-white bomber jacket featured an archival close-up portrait of Mr Armani posing in a tuxedo.
Against her uncle’s wishes, for the first time, Silvana Armani introduced cotton at the premium label via roomy trousers and knee-length shorts, often worn with strong-shouldered fitter jackets. Seen as “too humble” by Mr Armani, the material is one of his niece's absolute favourites. On a similar note, not a single hat was in sight, further going against Giorgio Armani’s famous penchant for headwear.
Colour-wise, navy and the classic Armani midnight blue were put on hold this time. Instead, Silvana Armani opted for a much more neutral palette, led by rich shades of black, white, and ivory. Graphic prints and patterns, silver and gold accents, were just as crucial; the latter glistening from start to finish and used as a strategy to sort of blur the lines between garments for day and night. The shimmer of it all also matched the XL disco ball hanging above the all-white, dance floor-inspired show space.
Given her previous Fall/Winter and Couture lineups, another of Silvana Armani’s main mottos is designing for the woman who praises elegance and comfort in equal measure. At SS27, its essence is similarly channelled through continuous fluidity, where garments sit freely on the body, and flat footwear makes total sense when paired with a formal dress. Even the more on-the-nose, objectively sexy codes such as slits, chainmail tops, and pronounced necklines carry a soft, organic sense of lightness. In good, Italian, andiamo.
Words by Ketlyn Araujo
