They often say it’s easy to tell when a designer loves women; you just have to look at their creations. The popularised statement, turned social media trend in the past few years, has an element of truth, yet it's nuanced. More importantly, the question is: how many designers are truthfully interested in hearing what women want when it comes to fashion?
At Givenchy, Sarah Burton is one of them. Since her first collection for the house, Burton has been open about the meaning of her creative practice. Her ultimate goal is to fulfil the dressing needs of contemporary women, without discarding their differences, similarities, and pluralities.
All of the above became crystal clear during Spring/Summer 2027, Burton’s fourth womenswear collection for the Parisian label. Taking into consideration how chaotic the world we live in is – even more so if you are a woman – she proposed a lineup of garments with a sense of balance and clarity. “A wardrobe to bring precision and simplicity to dressing as we speed through the multiple perspectives and perpetual motion of all our lives,” read the collection notes.
Here, the subject is in control, represented by an army of models meticulously cast, their clothes on the catwalk echoing their personal energy. A black-and-yellow leather dress, with metal side zips that serve as slits and climb onto the arms, almost becoming straps, opened the show. Colour-coordinating, heeled mules and a matching handbag, both with zip detailing, completed the look.
The motif was seen multiple times, which seemed to embody this sense of agency and power when choosing to dress or undress, protect or reveal. Micro black-and-white zipped hot pants were paired with unzipped, slouchier black leather boots plus a crisp white button-down, while a classic biker jacket and a black leather tank vest were also covered in zip fastenings.
Tailoring is notably one of Burton’s greatest skills, and this time her garments appeared either precise, with clean, sleek proportions, geometric and asymmetrical touches, or much more experimental. Black and pinstripe navy trouser suits, for example, had their jacket quarters placed subtly on top of each other in a fold, a technique also used in sleeveless vest iterations. Like an embrace, look 38 had its sleeves detached and placed diagonally, crossed over the torso. Ultra-oversized trousers contrasted with the more streamlined, timeless suiting styles, and deconstructed trenches came with sharp, short capes.
There was plenty of room for glamour and opulence, especially through the silk, printed separates, fringed and glistening floral-and-landscape-embroidered evening gowns. The use of primary colours, maximalist, playful pom-pom heels, peplum waists and hems, and a pair of white and blue column, floor-length dresses with sculptural, 3D gold hardware added an extra layer of drama.
On a similar note, the accessories, from stacked metallic bangles to leather and fringed gloves, mask-style sunglasses and pendant earrings and necklaces, topped off the styling. Sarah Burton understands women. In this case, it’s really not difficult to tell.
Words by Ketlyn Araujo
