showreport
Martin Onufrowicz
CELINE SS25
showreport
Martin Onufrowicz
LOUIS VUITTON SS25
showreport
Martin Onufrowicz
LACOSTE SS25
showreport
Martin Onufrowicz
MIU MIU SS25
showreport
Martin Onufrowicz
VALENTINO SS25

showreport

LOEWE SS25

Celebrating the first collection of his decade-long tenure at Loewe, Jonathan Anderson presented (in)arguably one of the season's best propositions.

Anderson’s usual modus operandi, where an artist collaboration is used as a creative springboard for a complex narrative, was slightly tweaked for Spring/Summer 2025. As a birthday treat, the designer allowed us to peek into his seemingly endless well of inspiration. The venue was filled with the designer’s biggest influences, from Peter Hujar’s photography to Charles Rennie Mackintosh’s chairs. And, of course, the cheeky inclusion of Susan Sontag’s Against Interpretation didn’t go unnoticed.

As far as the collection goes, Anderson perfectly encapsulated his philosophy for the menswear line at Loewe: a heavy emphasis on craft complemented by surreal yet elegant sexuality. Cropped shirts and polos were intertwined with pants through a belt that looped around the hip, leaving a seemingly magical empty space at the waist, revealing the model’s body. Anderson works the body like a sculptor, showing an intellectual sensuality. Through his clothing, the human form is clay—he modulates it at will. Oversized pants are gathered to one side, creating exaggerated pleats on one leg only.

Further surreal explorations are made in a trouser and polo looks. The latter’s collar melted through the former’s waist, once again revealing the bare body underneath. Jaw-dropping vests are continued proof of Loewe’s savoir-faire. Appearing in multi-chrome, gold, and silver options, the carefully linked vests shone peculiarly under the filtered sunlight that filled the venue.

The collection reassures us of Jonathan Anderson’s status. With a gift for creating viral moments (which just in the past few weeks include a steamy “got milk?”-like campaign and a tomato clutch) and undeniable design ability, Anderson’s climax is evergreen.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

DIOR MEN SS25

For his 60th collection for Dior in six years, Kim Jones decided to explore one of his obsessions. Instead of seeking inspiration from a historical figure or a familiar connection, the designer simply looked up at his bookshelves. Hylton Nel’s pottery fills the shelves of Jones’ country house, and this season, it filled his runway. Blown-up versions of Nel’s pieces punctuated the show space. If the giant sculptures weren’t enough to convey the collection’s starting points, the first model made it abundantly clear. A mandarin collar two-piece set was accessorised with a regular-sized ceramic piece in sage green.

Nel’s influence throughout the collection appeared in various forms. Animal motifs were printed, embroidered, and strategically placed in studs. Ceramic animals were used in pairs as buttons for sweet, knitted vests. The artist’s quirky animals appeared in pops of colour on classic knit sweaters. The ceramic inspiration escaped the garments and into the model’s heads, some had their hair polished perfectly in order to resemble vases.

Jones’ ventures into the realm of male couture were made in subtle ways, especially compared to his previous show. Beautifully placed crystal embroidery adorned the cuffs and collars of two stiff coats, first in taupe, then in beige.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

COURRÈGES SS25

Courrèges Spring/Summer 2025 collection proves there are always ways to make good out of a bad situation. In Paris, late spring, usually a harbinger of hope for warmer days, was instead a melancholic amalgamation of unpleasant rain and unpredictable cold. Inspired by the weather despair he felt when designing his latest offering, Nicolas di Felice presents a classic Courrèges collection, tailoring functionality for elegance's sake.

His inspiration is crystal clear from the beginning - the collection opens with four trench coats. Typical cold weather silhouettes are reinvented through lightweight fabrics and deconstructed touches. Satin, canvas, and raw denim are ever-present, most notably used in ‘70s-inspired looks. The brand’s identity in the decade is mentioned frequently, particularly in asymmetric button tabs. 

Di Felice thrives in his exploration of geometric shapes. This season, the fascination is manifested in incredible “magic square” tops -  a clear standout in the collection. Presented in both men's and women’s offerings, the deceptive garment makes it so a square of fabric appears to be floating on the body, devoid of any tattered attachments. The palette is, as always, strikingly neutral, albeit this season also includes slight pops of red and hiking-inspired abstract graphics. 

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

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EGON LAB SS25

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Egon Lab has a knack for obscure themes. This season’s inspiration is the obscurity itself. Titled Notes from the Underground, for Spring/Summer 2025, the creative duo behind the brand find their starting point in the silenced voices of those living on the margins. The collection, presented through a campaign shot in London, deepens the darker narrative Egon Lab has dabbled in for the past few seasons. 

Tartan ran supreme - an underground collection shot in London would be sinful without it. From full skin-tight sheer ensembles to the brand’s classic structured suits, red, green, and blue checkered patterns blend right into the British landscape. Other (not so subtle) nods to the collection’s surroundings were made through bearskin caps that double as voluminous bags. 

Sportswear-inspired looks lightened a conceptually rich collection. With football ensembles and shirts made to resemble academic branded t-shirts, Egon Lab’s club has never been so easy to root for.

Words by Martin Onufrowicz

KENZO SS25

Three years into his tenure as the artistic director of Kenzo, Nigo has showcased a collection for Spring/Summer 2025 that confidently executes his vision for the house. Throughout his menswear proposition, the Japanese designer has successfully mixed casual pieces with more formal designs. A yellow fishing vest was paired with billowy pleated trousers in the same hue. A sleeveless blue set in bamboo leaf print can seamlessly transition from day to night. A black tailored jacket with embroidery blending the image of the Eiffel Tower with traditional Japanese imagery is contrasted with a white mesh zip-up hoodie worn underneath. The womenswear section of the show displayed some of Nigo’s most elegant offerings to date. Silk dresses in yellow, orange and burgundy were adorned with cascading fringes. A flower-printed total look revealed a peak of tailored trousers under a sharply constructed trench coat. The designer’s cheerful colour palette came to a brilliant climax in the form of a crochet look with a halter neck top and a long skirt skimming the golden sand.

Words by Martin Onufrowicz

LGN LOUIS GABRIEL NOUCHI SS25

Known for centring his collections around his favourite books, this season, Louis Gabriel Nouchi decided to extend his scope of inspiration. Stepping outside of explicitly literary themes, the designer opted for a mix of references – from Patrick Süskind’s gripping bestseller Perfume: The Story of a Murderer to Lucio Fontana’s dramatic slasher artworks and the sensuality of Azzedine Alaïa’s body-hugging creations. The former, a story of an obsessive perfumer who turns to murder to capture “the ultimate scent”, presented itself in LGN’s colour palette and fabrications. A third of the show’s looks came in a rich oxblood hue, from silky suits to leather-panelling dresses and even an apron with a print reminiscent of blood splashes. Fontana’s works made their way into the collection in the shape of T-shirts with a delicate opening in the middle and knits with a much more explicit slit giving a peak of pecs – paired with a sharp blazer and voluminous black leather trousers. Over the past couple of years, Nouchi has successfully managed to create a strong vocabulary of hot design and with his Spring/Summer 2025 proposition, LGN is more carnal than ever.

Words by Martin Onufrowicz

ACNE STUDIOS SS25

Female superheroes are undoubtedly more interesting than their male counterparts. From their gravity-defying costumes to their unshakeable coiffed hair, women in comic books have to do everything men do but with high heels on. Captivated by their allure, Jonny Johansson presents a menswear collection riddled with even more stylized versions of DC superheroes. From embroideries on interestingly shaped bags to colourful prints, the likes of Superwoman are integrated beautifully into a classic Acne Studios collection.

For Spring/Summer 2025, Johansson upholds his manicured brand of grunge. Trompe l’oeil jeans replicate battered and bruised trousers, while thick leather belts constrain denim miniskirts. The designer has fun with some of his most adored pieces—the post-coquette bow bag gets a cargo makeover. Presented through a lookbook shot by Jordan Hemingway and modelled by choreographer Jordan Robson, the offering has a characteristic edge. Even the collection’s closing looks make the formal delinquent.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

BURC AKYOL SS25

Burc Akyol loves to blur the lines of gender expression – and he knows how to do it well too! The French-Turkish designer’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection evoked the sensuality of Studio 54, albeit in its most streamlined version – think Bianca Jagger in her iconic white suit. The show opened with a masterfully tailored double-breasted jacket, paired with white chiffon harem pants and a silk headscarf. This allure of the 1970s permeated the majority of the looks. The white tuxedo shirt has been reworked into a tunic with an opening exposing tailored bellbottom trousers, which in another set have been presented with a sleeveless peplum top – two propositions eliciting Jacques de Bascher’s androgynous spirit. The collection climaxed with a selection of silhouettes in sheer fabrics, which over the past couple of years have become Akyol’s signature. A black floor-length dress with draping covering the bust exposed the model’s torso, while a dramatic satin gown has been juxtaposed with a see-through mini worn on top – making a modern statement on nighttime attire.

Words by Martin Onufrowicz

GUCCI SS25

This season, Sabato De Sarno presented a collection that took his vision for Gucci on a beach getaway. For Spring/Summer 2025, the designer celebrated his second menswear show with a proposition rich in floral and surfer prints. 

Known for his love of bare legs, De Sarno has found the perfect excuse to revel in one of his signatures – a summer collection. The show opens on that exact note, with a lime-green leather coat and tiny shorts.  

Throughout the offering, the designer walks the fine line he’s accustomed us to. The balancing act between sensuality and eccentricity is done beautifully. Green shirts, in both long and short-sleeved versions, are entirely covered with crystal fringe. A pair of shorter-than-short shorts in Ancora red is accessorised with a suggestive choker. Striped rugby shirts are magically made of square paillettes. Neutral sets hide shorts under long shirts. 

The impressive luxurious escapades in between timeless looks are ever-present in De Sarno’s Gucci. But, this season, the designer begins swaying from his characteristic combination through the introduction of bold graphic prints. Exaggerated short-sleeved shirts present flowers and surfing men in lilac, green and orange. It's through these the inspiration for the collection is revealed. Surfing is explored not as a sport but as a means to achieve freedom. Sabato de Sarno keeps growing his reach – print by print, bead by bead, the designer is building his vision for Gucci.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

GIORGIO ARMANI SS25

There’s nothing quite like an Armani vacation. For Giorgio Armani’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, the legendary designer takes us along to his version of the tropics, where neutrals still rule, and tailoring is as much beachwear as any kaftan.

The runway was transformed into a summer dream: a terrace filled with nothing but palm leaf shadows and comfortable chairs. As the first looks appeared, the setting was complete. Effortless layering in taupe, light blues, and mild greys sauntered down the runway. The jackets? Unlined. The shirts? Silky. Armani is, as always, an idiosyncratic tailor. His characteristic silhouette is unmistakably his. Double-breasted in an approachable silver stands out, as do the 1970s-inspired collars on light shirts. 

As the collection progresses, monochromatic looks get subtly darker. Along the gradient from taupe to midnight blue, the palm leaves that adorn the floor make their way onto garments, at times subtly, at others more noticeably, like in negative prints on T-shirts. With naked chests and linen pants, Armani envisions summer not as it is, but as it should be.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

JW ANDERSON SS25

In the fashion cycle, one thing is a welcome constant – Jonathan Anderson is always bursting with creativity. For his men’s SS25 and women’s resort collection, the Northern Irish designer has played around with the idea of “irrational clothing”. The show opened with silk liner jackets in pastels which thrived in their oversized nature. This was a telling sign of what’s to come. Throughout the presentation, Anderson showcased a display of über-desirable outerwear propositions – from hooded jackets sitting on the body as if blown up from inside and mullet bombers to leather jackets with extra-large pockets.

Anderson loves an optical illusion and continues to push the concept into brilliant results. The bags borrowed design details from loafers, while sweaters and knit dresses resembled classic English houses, giving a humorous take on the cottage-core craze. As for the array of jumpers emblazoned with the Guinness logo? Well, Anderson is a big fan of the Irish drink and if you share his taste in beverages, you can express it with one of his pieces come next spring.

Words by Martin Onufrowicz

PRADA SS25

For Prada Spring/Summer 2025, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons gave us exactly what we wanted. In a light, youthful collection, the duo translated the formula that has made Prada’s sister brand so successful. Miu Miu’s offbeat youthfulness is immaculately conveyed through shrunken silhouettes, disturbingly vibrant colours, and an expected intellectual backing.

The show opened as most Prada shows do, with a fun twist. A little white house built on a platform lit up as the venue dimmed, pulsating both light and sound. Eventually, morning came, and models paraded down from the house onto the runway.

Immediately, crumpled and colourful knits set the tone. Shirts were folded and wrinkled in odd ways. Oversized leather coats had awkwardly short sleeves. Shrunken sweaters and a cropped nylon jacket revealed the models' waists. Trompe-l’œil was a constant, from polo collars on knitwear to light cotton trousers printed to resemble heavy wool.

The most striking part of the collection was undoubtedly the twisted collars, built through wires hidden in shirt seams. Prada’s Fall/Winter 2023 exaggerated collars were revisited in crumpled shapes. The uncanny playfulness trickled down to trousers, most with belts placed below the waistline, sewn into the trousers to sit centimetres away from their natural standing line.

These small details are little crumbs—oh, how we love to be fed by Mrs. Prada. Titled Closer the powerhouse design duo intentionally plays with perception. Clothes become metaphors for the need for connection. Proximity is discussed as a need, an imperative to understand human imperfection. Wrinkled clothes, ill-fitting coats, crumpled silhouettes—there’s a freedom in Prada’s planned spontaneity.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

EMPORIO ARMANI SS25

This season, Giorgio Armani took us on a rodeo. His Spring/Summer 2025 collection for Emporio Armani was peppered with references to horseback riding, from chunky suede boots with trousers tucked inside to leather harnesses and cowboy hats made of straw. The collection opened with an Armani summer staple – a parade of impeccably tailored and utterly light suits in the Italian designer’s favoured palette of grey and beige. And since Mr. Armani had horses on his mind, the signature looks were cinched at the bottom of the leg with zippers, exposing chocolate brown lace-up boots in all their glory. The offering then continued with incredibly desirable billowy silhouettes. Boiler suits with western pockets were paired with suede Mary-Janes. Double-layered vest with tassels was worn with roomy pleated trousers. Pistachio green suit jacket impressed with its extra-large lapels and elongated structure. The show closed with a section of looks in rich green and purple evoking the lavender fields of Provence, possibly revealing Mr. Armani’s upcoming holiday destination.

Words by Martin Onufrowicz

FENDI SS25

In fashion, celebration doesn’t require a reason. However, if it did, a centenary would certainly suffice. The house of Fendi is gearing up to celebrate its 100th anniversary in 2025, and Silvia Venturini Fendi has the honour (or rather, birthright) of introducing the first celebratory collection. For it, the designer delved deep into her family’s archives and emerged with a self-referential yet lighthearted proposition.

To honour the brand’s long-standing legacy, Venturini Fendi introduced a house crest featuring the Lagerfeld-designed double F logo, the ancestral Pequin stripe, an image of the Roman god Janus, and a squirrel. The latter directly references Edoardo Fendi, co-founder of the Maison, and his pet name for his wife, Venturini Fendi’s grandmother, Adele. Subtle nods to the history of Fendi were peppered throughout the 57 looks. Selleria stitching, one of the brand’s first house codes—adopted by its founders from Roman saddlery techniques—was omnipresent. Embossed in leather overcoats, embroidered in denim, and patched in the classic Baguette bag, the distinctive stitching was brought to the forefront.

The designer went beyond a mere celebration; Fendi was transformed into a literal club. Football jerseys and rugby T-shirts proudly announced the house’s name. The youthful feel of sportswear made sense in a young, preppy collection. Diagonal buttons liberated the shoulder, revealing them sensually as the models walked. Furry overshirts offered whimsical punctuation while playing on one of the brand’s most important tropes. Venturini Fendi asserts her family’s legacy perfectly, revelling in the fact that, above all, Fendi is (fur) fun.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

DOLCE & GABBANA SS25

With their latest offering for Spring/Summer 2025, Dolce & Gabbana leaned into the romantic vision of Italian holidays. The collection, built around classic menswear codes, explored transforming wardrobe staples into statement pieces. T-shirts were oversized and made out of cream macramé. Short-sleeved button-ups were constructed out of raffia and paired with the shortest of shorts. Striped suits were decorated with elongated belts dangling as the models walked down the runway. The show also played around with more feminine accents, from billowy blouses with deep necklines tucked into richly embroidered shorts to D&G’s accessory of the season – printed silk scarfs – which were worn with short-sleeved wool turtlenecks and textured tank tops or tied around the waist as belts.

Words by Martin Onufrowicz

MSGM SS25

Fifteen years since the launch of his label MSGM, Massimo Giorgetti presented a collection that played around with the tropes of the summer Riviera aesthetic. In his latest show for the brand, combining men’s SS25 and women’s resort 2025 lines, the Italian designer looked into the clichés associated with the nautical look and put them through his humorous prism – from Breton long sleeves with stripes taking the form of waves and sailor hats which resembled paper boats to souvenir shop hoodies and dresses made of the terry material (with a bucket hat to match). In his take on the seaside dressing, Giorgetti embraced his childhood memories of vacation, embellishing his pieces with depictions of the sun, dolphins and crabs. Never afraid of a vibrant colour palette, the designer let his creative flag fly with this latest proposition – juxtaposing classic blues and whites with rich reds and acidic yellows. A staple on the Milan Fashion Week schedule, Giorgetti once again proved that one of the key elements of longevity is refusing to let go of the sense of fun in the process.

Words by Martin Onufrowicz

CELINE FW24

A week after the end of fashion month, Hedi Slimane presented arguably one of the season's best collections. Drawing inspiration from the 1960s, which he considers the golden age of the brand, the designer showcased a collection that epitomised Celine. In a short film, Slimane revamped the brand's lexicon under his leadership, while also paying a touching homage to his mentor, introducing a beauty line, and incorporating 20 couture looks.

Throughout the hallways of Parisian art deco landmarks, models exhibited what is unquestionably one of Slimane’s finest collections for the Maison. The opening look was a conservatively structured black minidress adorned with thick ropes of pearls - think Breakfast at Tiffany’s meets Twiggy. Simultaneously showcased in various venues, models flaunted checkered matching sets in the galleries of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Space Age-inspired minidresses in the Salle Pleyel theatre, and A-line capes in the Maison de la Chimie.

The homage to Celine permeated the collection, not only in its overall BCBG look and feel but also in the frequent cuts to the Arc de Triomphe. This French landmark is deeply entwined with the Maison’s DNA. Legend has it that the brand’s founder, Céline Vipiana, was stranded near the monument in 1971, and while gazing at it, she was inspired to create Celine’s now instantly recognizable monogram. Appropriately titled “La Collection de l’Arc de Triomphe,” the brand’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection was brimming with the iconic symbol, notably in the incredibly desirable bubbly pillbox hats.

The bulbous shape was further explored in intriguing puffy fur coats and sweet babydoll silhouettes, some of which were part of a 20-look couture capsule concealed within the ready-to-wear collection, featuring intricate embellishments, snazzy sparkly collars, and razor-sharp cuts.

In the captivating video that introduced the collection, Slimane also teased an exciting new venture for the Maison. Following Celine’s successful launch of its perfumery collection in 2019, the brand is expanding its offerings with an elegantly packaged beauty line. Commencing with 15 shades of lipstick, the new range will be available in 2025.

According to Slimane, the collection wasn’t merely a tribute to Celine’s legacy but also a homage to one of his most significant mentors, Richard Avedon. The American photographer, renowned for his portraits, was a close collaborator of the designer. While honouring Avedon, Slimane orchestrated a tactful ode to his Maison, introduced a beauty line, and presented a striking short film, proving that sometimes, you can in fact have it all.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

LACOSTE FW24

With its new chapter led by creative director Pelagia Kolotouros, Lacoste is going back to its tennis roots. Staged at the Roland Garros stadium – the location of the yearly French Open tournament – the brand’s Fall/Winter 2024 show played around with the classic tropes of the game’s uniform. Pleated skirts were either elongated or shown in their more traditional format, but styled over trousers. A cream tennis dress was transformed into a floor-length gown with an off-the-shoulder neckline. Cable-knit sweaters were mega-cropped and worn under blazers. Furthermore, Kolotouros used the iconic emblems of the sportswear house and gave them a modern twist – from looks head-to-toe in Lacoste’s signature green to garments covered in prints of the instantly recognisable alligator. One of our favourite moments from the collection was the silk black and white pieces printed with vintage photographs of tennis matches – a sure way to stand out in the crowd during the next tournament season.

Words by Martin Onufrowicz

SAINT LAURENT FW24

There is something so remarkable about Anthony Vaccarello’s “surprise” menswear show. The refusal to conform to the men’s schedule and, instead, closing the fashion month feels right. Nothing describes the Saint Laurent man better — it’s about nerve. After all, that’s what it takes to wear a voluminous black leather coat, one of the standout pieces of the Fall/Winter 2024 collection.

An array of shiny coats paraded slickly down the runway. From structured peacoats to boxy jackets, most were accompanied by caps of the same fabric — a nod to Yves Saint Laurent’s accessories from the 1960s. Vaccarello’s references to the founder of the Maison are omnipresent; however, this season, he took it a step further: a literal doppelganger opened the collection with Mr. Saint Laurent’s iconic glasses and suit, the first of many that elegantly swayed on the runway. There was something special about the way suits moved, both rigid in the shoulders and fluid on the body. To achieve this peculiar effect, Vaccarello based all the tailoring on flou, a term that describes the search for the ultimate fluidity, opposing itself to the solid construction tailoring presumes.

Confessing himself inspired by the movie American Psycho, there was something methodical about the collection. Elegance doesn’t just happen; it requires meticulous planning. Besides Christian Bale and Mr. Saint Laurent, there were slight nods to the womenswear show staged just a week prior. The powdery neutral palette was similar, even if not through sheer fabrics (except in the case of one lone see-through shirt). Suits in greyish shades of khaki, cream, and brown contrasted with matching shirts and ties. Ending a hectic fashion month, Vaccarello reassured us that in fashion, intelligently made clothing will beat out any stunt.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

LOUIS VUITTON FW24

In today’s fashion landscape, staying at the helm of a major fashion brand as a creative director for over a decade is truly a unique experience. Last night, Nicolas Ghesquière celebrated his 10-year anniversary at Louis Vuitton with a collection more than fit for this monumental occasion.

 Staged in the larger-than-life venue at the house’s go-to Parisian location, the Louvre, the designer’s Fall/Winter 2024 offering was spectacular in its ingenuity. The show opened with a line-up centred around incredibly desirable technical windbreakers constructed in silk. This start was a great sign of what’s to come. The collection showcased some of the best outerwear of the season – from shiny embellished bombers to roomy shearling coats and tailored wool jackets with long side panels.

Throughout the show, Ghesquière also presented looks whose simplicity let his immaculate construction skills shine. Grey wool jackets were a modern take on power suiting from the designer’s favourite decade – the 1980s – while short dresses in the same fabric showcased his unmatched draping techniques. These more toned-down silhouettes were brilliantly juxtaposed with garments focused around his love for rich textures, with opulently embellished blazers and final dresses being highlights of this category.

Over the past 10 years, the designer excelled at creating immediately-recognizable accessories which have become staples in Louis Vuitton’s vocabulary. His iconic creations, such as the Petite Malle bag he premiered in his very first collection, were presented in the latest show in unique colourways alongside new handbag propositions. An accessory that seems to be Ghesquière’s very welcome obsession this season are fur mittens – used as a finishing touch in half of the looks on the runway.

In the collection, the designer was not afraid to reference moments from throughout his tenure, showing their timeless appeal – from floor-length gowns with long sleeves and strong shoulders to Louis XVI-inspired coats, and dresses with signature asymmetric hems. In the show notes, Ghesquière said, “Ten years later, this evening is a new dawn.” And with those words, we can’t wait to see what else he has in store for us in years to come.

Words by Martin Onufrowicz

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