showreport
Martin Onufrowicz
CELINE SS25
showreport
Martin Onufrowicz
LOUIS VUITTON SS25
showreport
Martin Onufrowicz
LACOSTE SS25
showreport
Martin Onufrowicz
MIU MIU SS25
showreport
Martin Onufrowicz
VALENTINO SS25

WILLY CHAVARRIA FW25

Few things excite us as much as Willy Chavarria—and we’re not just talking about the Willy boys, the series of hunks who serve as his muses. So when it was announced that the designer would show his Fall/Winter 2025 collection in Paris instead of his home turf, New York, patience was hard to maintain. When the day finally arrived and our expectations were sky-high, Chavarria still managed to exceed them.

Set in the American Cathedral in Paris, the designer took Paris to church. Named Tarantula—an allusion to the way minority communities are vilified for their reactions—the collection leaned into religious themes. The first models walked out with rosaries in hand. Chavarria’s signature experiments with workwear and tailoring continued, with a stronger emphasis on the latter. Oversized suits were standouts, as were their tighter fits—always featuring exaggerated shirt collars popping out of the jackets, of course.

But if the show started on a holy note, it soon inched toward something a lot more playful. The devil was literally spelled out in a red set. The final sinful nail in the coffin came toward the end of the collection when the lights turned red, unveiling the designer’s latest collaboration with Adidas. Worn by the Willy boys, the newest iteration of this ongoing project embodied the sin of lust.

Spirituality wasn’t merely a set piece or prop—it’s woven into Chavarria’s DNA. When Chavarria came out for his final bow, his head was lowered for a deeper reason. Bishop Reverend Mariann Budde’s prayer reverberated through the Revival Gothic building. Originally delivered just two days prior during Donald Trump’s inauguration sermon, the message was one of acceptance as a form of defiance in times of hardship. Chavarria is evolving, but his mission remains unchanged.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

LANVIN FW25

In his runway debut, Peter Copping returned to the DNA of Lanvin with a collection honouring the classic elegance of the brand. The designer introduced a feminine rendition of menswear with sophisticated and timeless looks, inspired by feminine constructions.

Lanvin is the oldest couture house still in operation, and this collection explored the roots that made Lanvin a household name in the industry, as well as Jeanne Lanvin’s legacy. Copping’s background in womenswear allowed him to use feminine codes and adapt them into a men’s wardrobe, portraying delicacy in the garments and intimacy between the wearer and the clothes.

With clean silhouettes and flawless tailoring, the collection was a blend of understated luxury and modernity. The fabrics, motifs, and embroideries gave a sumptuous feeling and created a collection rich with artistic flair, while showcasing dynamism and high energy in classic designs. Deep golden tones and sequin fabrics imprinted the overall offering with a lavish effect.

The impeccable craftsmanship was proof of the brand’s attention to detail and technical prowess. Structured coats and trousers flawlessly fit the models, while dresses with movement respected the natural shapes of the body. Showcasing Lanvin’s couture legacy and mastery in construction, the show closed with dramatic and voluminous gowns. The black velvet emphasized timeless sophistication, while the gold dress with metallic texture showcased an opulent aesthetic.

With Copping, Lanvin is successfully entering a new era where design and technical innovation meet tradition and craftsmanship. With this collection, he demonstrated his ability to turn classic pieces into contemporary, artistic, and luxurious creations—quintessential values to Lanvin.

Words by Carolina Benjumea

JACQUEMUS SS25

Set inside the Parisian art deco apartment designed by Auguste Perret, Simon Porte Jacquemus presented one of the most grown-up collections for his eponymous label to date. Presented by a line-up of supermodels (Christy Turlington! Doutzen Kroes! Eva Herzigova!) in a haute couture salon-like matter, the Spring 2025 offering was rich in old-world elegance.

The show opened with a string of looks featuring cocoon-like coats and voluminous skirts. The feeling of sophistication was further mastered in the ensemble worn by Alex Consani – an oversized feather coat, which evoked the glamour of Truman Capote’s “Swans”. Looks were accessorised with ladylike bags and shoes – long leather clutches and kitten heels. But because this is a Jacquemus show that we’re talking about, the signature sexy touch was not lost. Floor-length gowns in black and red, though appearing demure from the front, featured slits on the side cut low enough to give a peek of the underwear. Leather corset belts cinched both womenswear and menswear looks, and the shortest of shorts were paired with blazers, jackets and coats.

As the models walked the final time to Mon Dieu by Edith Piaf, Jacquemus’ intention for the season was clear – this spring, we’re channelling the ladies (and gentlemen) who lunch, and have a lot of joy doing so!

Words by Martin Onufrowicz

DIOR HOMME FW25

A gigantic white staircase lights up as the Dior Homme Fall/Winter 2025 show is about to begin. Down it descends a model wearing a black blindfold, a simple sweater, and voluminous balloon pants resembling a ball skirt. And while the initial shock of a blindfolded model walking down steep stairs subsides, the dramatic silhouette leaves a lasting impression. Little did we know, that was merely the opening look of one of the season's most remarkable collections. Kim Jones, now eight years into his tenure, presented one of the most impressive offerings of his career.

Devoid of colour or pattern for the most part, the collection primarily featured black, grey and muted pink. His historically consistent focus on streetwear was transformed—adapted into a matter of silhouette rather than logos. Simple leather cropped jackets were impeccably cut.

The collection’s success lay not only in its aesthetic impact but also in its depth, which reached back to the house’s earliest codes. It drew inspiration from Monsieur Dior’s H-line collection of Fall/Winter 1954. Now, 71 years later, Jones reinvents those codes, abstracting them into modern tailoring. The show serves as a seamless extension of his most recent experiments. Jones has long flirted with the idea of what a menswear couture line might look like, and his latest collection feels like a definitive conclusion. Mostly forgoing haute couture’s classic extravagance—visible only in subtle crystal embroideries (the final look being the exception)—Jones distills the art of couture into tailoring, using it to craft shapes that exist simultaneously in the past and the future.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

LGN LOUIS GABRIEL NOUCHI FW25

“LGN.” “LGN.” “LGN.” A repetitive hymn blasts from the speakers at the—you guessed it—LGN Louis Gabriel Nouchi show. The track, part anthem, part gay bar background music, is lovely but not necessary. There’s no way we could mistake the collection before us. After eight years at the helm of his namesake label, Nouchi has established a visual identity like no other: classic masculine silhouettes contrasted by skin-tight sheerness. Fall/Winter 2025 was no exception.

Another of his signatures—a classic book as the thematic anchor for the collection—was, of course, present. 1984 felt like a pointed choice. In a political climate that worsens with every billionaire's speech, George Orwell’s dystopian classic resonates deeply, particularly for a brand that is not only outwardly queer but also so progressive, even within the fashion world. A diverse cast—spanning age, body type, height, and gender—reminded us of the commitments many made a few years ago but seem to have since abandoned. The sombre tone was mirrored in cocooning silhouettes, perhaps evoking the childish instinct to hide under the covers.

The straight shoulders—the only straight thing in the show—were, of course, ever-present. This time, however, they appeared in a spectrum of materials, the standout being a short fur that was to die for. Nouchi has redefined masculinity, one that, while borrowing from the aesthetics of its conservative iteration, completely subverts it.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

DRIES VAN NOTEN FW25

There are not enough words to express the depth of the gasp I exhaled when I saw the Dries Van Noten Fall/Winter 2025 collection. After last season’s unforgettable show—the official farewell of its founder—there was a sense of doom and gloom surrounding the collection. But, alas, a few weeks ago, Julian Klausner was announced as the new creative lead. And while the collection was designed solely by the Dries Van Noten studio and merely directed by Klausner, the novelty of a new designer erased any trace of somberness.

At its essence, Dries Van Noten is a joyful company. Of course, the joy wasn’t necessarily spelled out. The collection, romantic with a gloomy undertone, had its moments of glee—flowers punctuated the entire lineup.

Inspired by William Burroughs’ The Wild Boys, the visual language was rooted in a very specific time and place—in this case, Antwerp in the 19th century. Structured trench coats in wool and fur were as opulent as they were romantic. But if it’s romance one desires, a dramatic satin cape satisfies all cravings. The brand’s idiosyncratic prints also received a dark makeover.

It feels poetic for menswear to be the first collection the brand presents after Klausner’s announcement, as it was also Van Noten’s farewell. Menswear, as the narrative core of the brand, bookends its history.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

EGONLAB FW25

A brand responding to the political climate isn’t uncommon—it’s expected. The need to morally connect with their audience is becoming increasingly prevalent. However, what Egonlab presented for their Fall/Winter 2025 show doesn’t feel like a business move but rather a clever, whimsical metaphor for a dark reality. Appropriately named S4LEM, the collection, created by Florentin Glémarec and Kévin Nompeix, is an enchanting statement. Drawing a parallel between the current witch hunt of queer people happening globally—the show coincided with Donald Trump’s inauguration ceremony—and the Salem witch trials of 1692, the creative duo delivered a collection that was as impactful as it was well-executed.

The references emerged in sophisticated ways—there was no overuse of literal witch hats. Instead, voluminous, ragged collars and cuffs on skintight cardigans struck a balance between flamboyance and goth. The rest of the collection existed between those two poles. At times, it leaned toward one edge—silk scarf long-sleeve tops felt particularly queer-coded. At others, it veered toward the sombre—long black coats and full black leather ensembles conveyed a darker tone.

Despite its strong thematic presence, the collection never felt overwhelming. Egonlab’s signature elements were still prominent: nipped-in waists, bold shoulders, and manipulated denim. Interwoven throughout the lineup, the creative duo also introduced pieces from their capsule collection with Zadig & Voltaire, most notably strappy leather bags that added an exciting touch.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

ACNE STUDIOS FW25

There’s something so distinct about Acne Studios’ design. The essence of youth is ever-present—not in a naive, romantic sense, but in its characteristic soft edge. It’s not surprising, then, that when looking for inspiration for the brand’s Fall/Winter 2025 menswear collection, Jonny Johansson turned to what young men are doing online. He searched, and he certainly found it—it being looksmaxxing. The trend involves young men going to the gym, maintaining their skincare routines, and dressing well for the sake of looking good. Essentially, it’s metrosexuality repackaged. The pursuit of looking better is represented in different ways throughout the collection. Shorts directly correlate to the ever-necessary, never-skipped leg day.

Elsewhere, skin-tight, cropped, and low-neckline tank tops feel equally youthful. But it’s not just skimpy athleisure. More traditional menswear looks include a two-piece checked suit, though the idea of formality was subverted in quintessentially Acne-coded trompe l’oeil long-sleeve tops that emulated a suit and tie. Accessories, footwear, and denim are always standouts for the brand, and this collection was no different—the printed jeans were a highlight.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

AMI FW25

Alexandre Mattiussi does genderless better than anyone else. His rendition of neutral garments is often rooted in menswear but with the elegance of womenswear. Through his polished tailoring, he achieves a perfect balance between the strong masculine codes and the delicacy of feminine silhouettes.

In an industrial setting, with a saxophonist providing the musical background, the brand created a refined atmosphere for what would be a minimalistic and sophisticated wardrobe. The collection portrayed a smart-chic style, characterized by simple cuts and sleek outerwear. Loose and oversized silhouettes in a neutral colour palette were present throughout the show, creating versatile and relaxed looks.

Striking coats in structured cuts were central to the collection, providing each look with attitude and opulence. The high-quality materials turned this proposition into a luxurious parade. As one of the main exponents of quiet luxury, AMI delivered a flawlessly crafted collection, captivating the eyes of the viewers.

Perhaps one of the key pieces was the maxi skirts styled with boots, which represented the Parisian touch when it comes to styling garments. The movement of these pieces gave the wearer a feminine feel.

AMI’s collection was the epitome of urban elegance—a wardrobe where garments merge with the city through their effortless nature, bringing a sense of freedom to the person who wears them while creating a sleek and sophisticated silhouette.

Words by Carolina Benjumea

LEMAIRE FW25

Oh, to live in a Lemaire world. As proven once again with yesterday’s FW25 show, Christophe Lemaire and Sarah Linh-Tran are at the very top when it comes to creating an intriguing universe that you desperately want to be a part of.

Lemaire is synonymous with elegance – we know that. But with their latest proposition, the sophistication was paired with a thrilling sense of grit. Black leather made an appearance throughout the collection, from roomy jackets and bandanas to trousers with matching boots (worn under a voluminous wool coat). A stand-out menswear look featured a suede grey blazer paired with a shirt and wide jeans in the same hue. The signature restrained palette of Lemaire (black, navy, chocolate brown, beige) was broken up with energetic colour accents – from a cobalt blue shirt worn with dark navy outerwear to a head-to-toe womenswear look in fiery red.

The accessories hinted at a humorous side of the design duo. Lemaire’s popular statement necklaces were worn throughout, featuring pendants in the shapes of harmonicas, pocket knives or castanets. The simultaneously oversized and delicate feathery earrings swayed with the model’s walk, while a bag embellished with a blue eye in metal made the audience members feel seen in more ways than one.

Words by Martin Onufrowicz

PAUL SMITH FW25

Paul Smith has always mastered the art of infusing creativity into an otherwise classic wardrobe. His choice of colours, textures, and prints creates a fun and youthful approach to timeless pieces. 

For this season, the brand introduced an offering inspired by the stylish photographers of the 20th century, blending preppy aesthetics with a touch of underground subcultures. Staying true to its DNA, traditional British tailoring merged with playful motifs, creating a synergy of styles that exudes sophistication and luxury.

Paul Smith understands better than anyone how to blend eclecticism with craftsmanship. His designs strike a balance between wearability, individuality, and creativity. The multicolour stripe motif appeared on sweaters, while prints adapted from photographs taken by Paul’s father featured prominently throughout the collection. A ‘Field Flower’ motif adorned blue and orange shirts, derived from a photograph of wild daisies, showcasing the artistic drive behind his brand and evoking a vintage aesthetic.

He dresses a man who is unafraid to experiment with ambitious hues and motifs, which play an important role in revealing a softer side to the wearer. The looks incorporate an interesting twist with eye-catching elements: vibrant orange cardigans, corduroy ensembles for added texture, and unexpected proportions in jackets and trousers.

Words by Carolina Benjumea

GIORGIO ARMANI FW25

It’s always a joy to see a Giorgio Armani collection. Perhaps it’s the reliable sensibility of the clothes, maybe it’s the historic value of the brand or it might just be the full-bodied dopamine rush we get when we see Mr. Armani at the end of the show. 

As the Fall/Winter 2025 show started, the looks reflected what we come to Armani for: solidly stylish pieces with an Italian edge. A series of cropped grey jackets appeared in different materials and sizes—some in heavy wool, others in buttery leather.

We can’t help but mention the exceptional casting. Leave it to Mr. Armani to understand the appeal of a hunk—there were no twinks in sight.

Mr. Armani’s regular visit to the slopes was signalled by a change in colour—not only of the clothes but of the set itself. Suddenly, the neutral palette, dominated by grey and black, turned ultraviolet. Lavender-tinted lights emanating from the floor perfectly reflected the glossy panels of the skiwear.

When the lights returned to normal, neutrality reclaimed the palette, this time accented by sections of green, red, and blue that complemented light beiges. That is until the Twilight filter made its return. Couples that looked as though they had stepped out of a Stephenie Meyer adaptation of Nosferatu—rest assured, this is a compliment— somberly closed the runway.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

TOD'S FW25

What if we said the Tod’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection was all we needed in our closets for the rest of our lives? In a collection honed in on the classics of Italian fashion Matteo Tamburini, marking his first year at the helm of the brand, presented an offering that was not just what we expect Tod’s to be, but what we want it to be. His vision extended beyond fashion to encompass Italian design, including architecture, interior decor, and furniture.

Set in a modernist salon designed by Piero Portaluppi, which revealed some of its inspirations, the collection’s 22 looks intertwined heavy knits with long trench coats (unfortunately, not buttoned to the top!). Materiality—the highlight of any Tod’s show—was stunning: leather shined like satin and textured wool seemed tangible even through the screen.

Yes, the shoes were great—that’s what Tod’s does best—but the bags this season were outstanding. One in particular, an oversized bowling bag made of velvety beige suede, was mouthwatering, to say the least—especially when paired with the most perfect pair of jeans of the season.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

MAGLIANO FW25

For its Fall-Winter ’25 menswear collection, Magliano introduced a minimal approach to clothing, where the centre of it was the flawless constructions and the person who wears them. Known for its high-quality fabrics and tailoring, the brand showcased its expertise in crafting garments faithful to the body, with creativity in mind.

With an intimate feeling throughout the show, Magliano gave us Italian heritage with a twist. The main character of the presentation was the tailored suit and its different iterations. From classic grey and corporate to playful and laid-back, the essence of craftsmanship was visible throughout each look.

Jackets in cotton ribbed fabric, mohair trousers, padded crepe-de-chine outerwear, and shiny knitwear adorned with Swarovski crystals were given a sensual touch. T-shirts knotted around jackets and oversized suits gave a powerful energy to the wearer, creating an interesting conversation between the body and the garment, as well as the contrast between classic and modern. The looks were deconstructed with a focus on textures and layering, creating a wardrobe that is contemporary, comfortable, and easy to pair with other garments. The bags wearing underwear, signed Medea, added a playful element to the looks.

A dark setting set the mood for the overall collection. Hues of greys, military greens, navy blues, and some purples created a mysterious and thoughtful ambience. The diversity of the casting emphasised an interesting narrative between the clothing and the models, as their different looks mixed with the eclecticism of the clothing. The collection had a masculine feeling with deconstructed elements that hint at a soft and fluid vision of the modern man. 

Words by Carolina Benjumea

PRADA FW25

Fur is so back, baby. Well, at least if you listen to Mrs. Prada and Raf Simons—which we do. For men’s Fall/Winter 2025, the duo presented a collection that finally lets us stop pretending and admit that fur—faux, obviously—is hot. Smartly cut outerwear was adorned with roughly cut shearling pelts. The idea of primitivity, practically spelled out in these pieces, was central to understanding the show. Fur was further explored closer to the body, layered under light jackets.

Accompanying the furs were knits adorned with metal symbols, purposeful in their purposelessness—meant to emulate empty amulets.

Duality, that ever-essential tension in any given Prada collection, was front and centre. Carelessly placed pelts were strutted on by models wearing ‘70s floral cowboy boots. The untamed/domestic dichotomy shone as sharply cut pyjama sets—the poster children for homely comfort—interrupted the omnipresent furry chic.

The idea carried over to the set—always an unexpected treat at any Prada show. This season, the loosely screwed scaffolding (some attendees complained about its fragile appearance, but we have full trust in Mrs. Prada) was floored with fluffy printed rugs.

It’s easy to overthink a Prada collection. You see the juxtaposition of fur pieces with 2015-ish silhouettes, the mix of colourful bowling bags with shrunken floral T-shirts, and the intellectual intent practically leaps out at you. Yet backstage, Simons steers us away from overanalyzing. “We come to a point where we say, ‘That feels right.’ We try not to dictate something or make a theory.”

So, let’s stop trying—interpretations are futile. It’s good, it’s Prada, that’s all it matters.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

EMPORIO ARMANI FW25

Emporio Armani’s opulence has always shone through its vocabulary. However, this season’s collection has truly shown the power of luxurious fabrics, lavish prints, and tailored pieces. Through a wardrobe for a sophisticated man, the brand seeks to create designs that are timeless but with a youthful feeling.

The show opened with outdoor clothing intended for extreme cold weather, such as puffer jackets, oversized scarves, cargo trousers, and XXL backpacks in striking colours. Then, a parade of sumptuous, elaborate, and flawlessly crafted looks made their way down the runway.

It’s not every day that we get to see leopard print at an Emporio Armani show, but this season, the brand gave it a sumptuous touch through jackets, shirts and shoes. The Armani man knows how to dress, and he does so effortlessly and tastefully.

He is daring and informed when it comes to mixing and matching fabrics, colours and textures. From velvet coats and trousers with metallic hues to graphic prints, leather, and silk, he is not afraid to experiment. His most classic side is exposed through tailored pinstripe suits and long structured coats. To go out, he likes to wear metallic-threaded pullovers and fur coats. And when he feels like flaunting, he wears tailoring with lavish embroideries. 

The brand really understood the needs of modern men and their relationship to clothing. By providing a contemporary view of elegance through the wardrobe, they can fully embrace their masculinity with grace. Armani’s take on refinement is refreshing and appealing to a younger generation who sees clothing as a medium for experimentation and expression while keeping the codes of timeless taste.

Words by Carolina Benjumea

JORDANLUCA FW25

The Jordanluca Fall-Winter '25 show was a celebration of love. Against a romantic pink and white backdrop adorned with flowers, models and guests posed in what initially seemed like a fashion gathering. A romantic, dream-like vibe filled the show, with the background music setting the mood and Mendelssohn’s Wedding March preparing the audience for what was to come: the wedding of Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto.

Over the years, Jordanluca has become a bold staple on the Milan Fashion Week scene. Their brand is a daring mix of Italian timeless design and London’s counter-culture energy. Through urban and streetwear silhouettes, they have positioned themselves at the centre of modern masculinity while maintaining craftsmanship in their DNA. This collection stayed true to their individuality and edgy approach to design.

The show was a mix of styles that came together to create an eclectic collection. From preppy looks characterised by blazers, sweaters, tailored coats, and buttoned shirts, to elements reminiscent of the Punk movement, such as chunky platform shoes, oversized leather jackets, and studded leather belts, as well as feminine pieces like pencil skirts, each look showcased elegance with a modern twist.

The juxtaposition of classic and unconventional was further complemented by the dichotomy between feminine and masculine. Mini dresses and skirts appeared alongside cargo pants and deconstructed pieces, creating a free-spirited and creative feeling throughout. Some models walked down the runway holding red roses, adding an enigmatic yet sexy allure.

After the models' final walk, an officiant appeared to celebrate the wedding of the designers. The touching speech retracing the history of their relationship, the intimate and charming setting, the vows, the final kiss, and the six-tier wedding cake all stood as proof of the enduring bonds forged through the creative vision of their brand.

Words by Carolina Benjumea

CELINE SS25

Hedi Slimane is a creative director through and through. His collections are not merely clothes; they are gateways into a world of his construction. For Spring/Summer 2025, Slimane transports us to the 1960s—a familiar era for him. While his Fall/Winter 2024 collection explored this decade as Celine's golden age, this season, Slimane takes a different route, delving into the youth culture of the time. Drawing inspiration from Françoise Sagan’s La Chamade and icons like Juliette Gréco, he presents a collection that doesn’t just create characters, it forges a narrative.

Despite unveiling the collection at the height of Paris Fashion Week, Slimane marches to the beat of his own drum—this time to the tune of The Velvet Underground and Nico’s Femme Fatale. Models gracefully paraded through the halls of the Château de Compiègne, a royal residence northeast of Paris, as the film, aptly titled Un Été Français, unfolded. As is customary, the film opens with a coveted Celine-branded item—in this case, a typewriter—that instantly feels essential.

Soon after, models dressed in checked and pleated school uniforms, hand-embroidered and woven from summer cashmere, strolled through the opulent palace. Baby doll silhouettes added a sweet yet nostalgic touch to the collection, whether in black-and-white plaid or fully embellished designs. A standout moment came with a vinyl plaid set featuring a round collar and shorter skirt—a transcendent piece. Equally impressive was the couture selection, which comprised 20 of the 49 looks, with carefully placed palettes and shimmering ornamental flowers adorning charming mini dresses.

Central to many of the looks was the latest addition to Celine’s iconic bag lineup: Joséphine. Reflecting the spirit of the collection, this bag features a curved, erect handle that instantly transports us to the Belle Époque of fashion—the very essence of Slimane’s vision this season.

From the meticulous stitching on each button to the historically accurate buckled Mary Janes, Slimane’s perfectionist tendencies were on full display. Beauty, too, played a pivotal role in his collection, with almost every model donning Gréco-inspired eyeliner and fringes. The attention to detail extended beyond the runway, as a signature perfume created specifically for this collection further amplified the atmosphere of the show.

The collection’s debut came just days before Slimane announced his departure, soon followed by the appointment of his successor, Michael Rider. After seven prosperous years, Slimane leaves Celine transformed. With the introduction of menswear, a beauty line, and a fully-fledged couture line, the Celine he departs is far different from the one he inherited. But all good things must come to an end. Slimane will undoubtedly find new avenues for his genius, and Celine, under Rider’s leadership, is poised for further growth. Having been a design director during Phoebe Philo’s time at the house—still regarded as a golden age—Rider’s appointment signals a new and exciting chapter. The king is dead, long live the king.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

LOUIS VUITTON SS25

On a stage made out of hundreds of trunks, Nicolas Ghesquière presented a Spring/Summer 2025 collection for Louis Vuitton equally opulent when it comes to ideas. 

The season’s starting point came from one of Ghesquière’s favourite history periods, the Renaissance. The show opened with a round of looks which played with the shapes of jackets from the era – the sleeves were billowy and the peplums flowed as the models walked down the runway. And since this is a Nicolas Ghesquière collection, these garments of historical proportions were given a modern edge through their lightness and pairing with striped bicycle shorts.

Excellent outerwear propositions continued throughout the offering, including the standout off-white cape with an architectural collar (worn with dramatic feathery shoes) and a black chiffon jacket with sharp ‘80s shoulders, embellished with oversized stones.

The fluid nature of the collection was emphasised by the strings of necklaces dangling all the way to the navel. The jewellery accents were further used throughout the accessories range, from monogrammed bags decorated with a rainbow of stones to bucket hats embellished with pendants swinging to the beat of the soundtrack.

Words by Martin Onufrowicz

LACOSTE SS25

The ball is in Lacoste’s court this season, as Pelagia Kolotouros and her design team at the iconic 90-year-old French sportswear brand push the boundaries of athletic wear. Titled Tennis to the Seaside, the collection draws inspiration from the wardrobe of René Lacoste, reflecting his 1920s style that seamlessly transitioned from intense tennis matches to leisurely seaside cruises, always with a stylish edge. Polos and neoprene blazers are tucked into high-waisted shorts, while retro bathing suits and jelly sandals make a comeback—perfect for scaling rocks or harvesting oysters for lunch.

Lacoste serves up a striking range of beige-to-yellow looks, each tailored to different occasions. This season, “doubles” are the highlight, as matching menswear and womenswear sets add a playful element to the show. Notable pieces include tennis racket sweater vests paired with a skirt-over-pants combination, an elevated nod to Mikhail Youzhny's memorable head-hitting racket moment. The brand’s signature green hue also returns, flowing into deep chocolate tones that exude a refined elegance while still paying homage to Lacoste’s sporty heritage.

The backdrop, a fountain-like sculpture by British artist Susie MacMurray, made from actual tennis nets, sets the tone for the collection. The tennis net theme is woven throughout: from sheer, netted layering pieces adorned with charms to crocheted dresses featuring fierce crocodiles snapping at the models' necks. Accessories seamlessly echo the offering’s theme, with loose tennis net-adorned bags available in a variety of shapes, colours and sizes. Meanwhile, mini tennis skirt flaps bring a bold and playful twist to the classic baguette handbag.

Lacoste aces the season with its knack for reinvention. Tracksuits are looser, dresses sexier with strategic cutouts, and prints bolder and more dynamic. The brand also revisits Robert George’s iconic prints, reimagining the famous Lacoste logo by enlarging and rotating it across shirts, dresses, and trench coats. Just when we thought the sportswear trend had peaked, Lacoste elevates it once again, expanding into the lifestyle realm and broadening its appeal to a modern audience.

Words by Gabrielle Valda Colas

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