Peter Copping’s Lanvin is a mix of classic Parisian chic and modern glamour, creating silhouettes that are both wearable and dramatic through the use of haute couture techniques and a combination of tailored pieces with voluminous shapes, offering versatility.
An aesthetic reminiscent of the 1920s appears throughout the runway, particularly in the low-waisted dresses that create column-like silhouettes. Femininity here appears not as naïvety or delicacy, but rather as a mature interpretation of womanhood. The women seem confident, expressing a self-assured sexuality, without being overtly provocative.
There is a focus on the shoulders and the waist, achieved through tailoring borrowed from masculine codes. These elements are softened and transformed through feminine touches such as ruffles and cinched waists. Drapery is key in the construction of the garments and the fluidity of each look, creating an illusion of movement and lightness.
XXL hats served as a common thread throughout the collection, adding a sense of theatricality to the looks. Asymmetric skirts showcase the mastery of construction and demonstrate the rich techniques that have been the signature of the oldest couture house in Paris.
Certain pieces diverged from the collection’s main narrative, such as the floral dresses, which represented a lively alternative to the otherwise glamorous look, while others elevated the overall storytelling, such as the floor-length evening gowns in a metallic finish.
Central were the elaborate details. Classic silhouettes become canvases for intricate embroidery, fringe detailing, cut-outs, and leather and velvet accents, which elevated the looks from classic to edgy. Fur appears throughout the collection, on coats, collars, dresses, and skirts, adding a sense of vintage glamour.
Words by Carolina Benjumea
