For its Cruise 2026/27 collection, Gucci handed the keys to New York City over to Demna, who went on a cinematic exploration of the metropolis and its endlessly compelling cast of characters. From backpack-clad Wall Street bros to fur-wrapped downtown 365 party girls and jewel-laden Upper East Side socialites en route to charity galas, the collection captured the city through a sharply exaggerated yet deeply observant lens.
Set against the grand backdrop of Times Square, the show unfolded as a full-scale fashion spectacle, amplified by a headline-making cast. Paris Hilton delivered a nostalgic moment in a pussy-bow silk shirt dress and brunette wig, revisiting her unmistakable runway strut with playful self-awareness. Meanwhile, sports superstar Tom Brady embraced a darker, naughtier aesthetic in head-to-boot black leather inspired by the Tom of Finland fineries (did he go to a leather bar after the show?). Model-du-jour Amelia Gray further cuntyfied the runway, elevating a jangling set of keys into a statement accessory through her fierce walk.
As expected from Demna, the collection rejected convention in favour of exaggerated silhouettes and provocative styling. Outerwear emerged as a central focus: a vivid red fur revealed a striking Flora-print lining, while a sharply tailored coat offered the white interpretation of the motif. Structural peacoats in navy and red matched the energy of sharp, tailored trousers and even sharper, spiky heels. Tailoring itself proved to be another standout category. Traditional suiting was reimagined through both masc office-fantasy cuts and dramatically cinched double-breasted silhouettes that injected theatricality into formalwear.
Although unmistakably filtered through Demna’s aesthetic, the collection remained rich with instantly recognisable brand’s signatures – after all, it was titled GUCCICORE! Horsebit hardware appeared across black heels, while the house’s iconic green-and-red stripe was transformed into lanyard details on backpacks and binder-inspired chest accessories. The result? A collection that fused irony, luxury, and urban character study into a distinctly contemporary vision of Gucci.
Words by Martin Onufrowicz
