Acne Studios Fall/Winter 2024 Menswear collection, shot on American musician Yves Tumor, is a celebration of denim culture. The street-tough, masculine, leather-wearing archetype of the biker is transformed into a cyber-biker. In a Tom of Finland-esque turn of events, this traditional figure of masculinity becomes androgynous, shapeshifting and grunge. Leather jackets are seen throughout the collection paired with t-shirts featuring kitten prints or psychedelic patterns. This take on the grunge aesthetic is a signature of the Acne style which playfully gives a vintage or used appearance to new garments. Denim trousers seem worn out, covered in dirt or printed with chains, bows and accessories in a style reminiscent of DIY. Denims are adorned with prints, while on the flip side, UGG-like boots and leather bags are made of denim trompe-l’oeil. That’s the Acne paradox.
The collection is provocative and sexy, as well as cool and comfortable. “Denim, inherently, has a rebellious aura. It’s provocative, it’s rugged,” says Jonny Johansson. It is always appreciable to see a designer stick to what they do best. In Acne’s case, the styling is very unique and thoughtful, almost confusing sometimes. Fluffy faux fur hats with cat ears, mittens and scarves are inspired by Kawaii street-style culture while biker looks are influenced by sporty ski elements in the way they are worn. This avant-garde mix of references takes a trained eye to understand. If you know, you know…
Words by Marien Brandon
