showreport
Martin Onufrowicz
CELINE SS25
showreport
Martin Onufrowicz
LOUIS VUITTON SS25
showreport
Martin Onufrowicz
LACOSTE SS25
showreport
Martin Onufrowicz
MIU MIU SS25
showreport
Martin Onufrowicz
VALENTINO SS25

showreport

JIL SANDER FW25

Backstage at the Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2025 show, Luke and Lucie Meier were photographed after OTB Group chairman Renzo Rosso handed them a huge bouquet of flowers. It wasn’t that the image was odd—congratulating a designer after a successful show is expected, and this was certainly one. But it seemed to confirm the swirl of rumors suggesting the couple’s departure from the brand they had creatively led for the past eight years. And it did. Shortly after the show, it was announced that the duo would be leaving Jil Sander. In that way, the collection was, in a sense, a eulogy.

The show reflected not only where their journey began in 2017 but also where it ended. Soft, flowing femininity was cut by sharp androgyny. The opening looks—a sea of black, shiny fringe in the form of suits, dresses, and coats—felt almost uncharacteristically harsh. But as fluidity began to interject, the Jil Sander touch became apparent.

Further explorations of tailoring appeared in the form of kilts for both men and women. This androgyny has become inseparable from the Meiers' tenure at the brand—another element they embraced over time. Signs of their early femininity reemerged in column dresses adorned with feathers and a t-shirt gown overflowing with bows.

A fitting farewell, the collection felt like both a reflection and a resolution—an acknowledgment of the Meiers’ evolution at Jil Sander and the signature codes they refined over the years. As they take their final bow, their legacy lingers in the balance between precision and softness, structure and fluidity.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

FENDI FW25

Fendi turned 100! The quintessential Italian brand, rooted in Roman heritage, is now a century old, and its latest fashion show was a celebration of everything Fendi—Silvia Venturini’s creative vision and the core elements that have defined the brand’s identity since 1925.

The show was filled with emotional and familial references. Silvia Venturini’s grandchildren opened the show, which was staged in a setting that evoked the historic salons of the Fendi boutique and atelier in Rome, where the five sisters once worked and played. It honoured both the brand’s history and the five generations that have shaped it.

The cohesive thread that unified the show was faux fur. Renowned for its mastery of this material since its inception, the brand seized the occasion to showcase it through coats, stoles for men, and vests. The show opened with a striking faux mink coat, followed by feminine silhouettes that honoured the natural curves of women’s bodies. Leather appeared in structured skirts, boots, and suits, creating an intriguing interplay of textures on the runway, from rigid to soft.

Outerwear played a key visual role in the looks, adding both volume and drama. From oversized glamorous coats reminiscent of old Hollywood allure to tailored, modern designs with a more classic vision, the collection balanced elegance with innovation. The show blended past and future, reimagining the brand’s signature elements with a contemporary approach. Baguettes, Peekaboos, and Spy Bags were revisited with a modern twist while preserving their timeless appeal.

An earthy colour palette—ranging from khaki to beige, terracotta, and brown—created understated silhouettes. Pieces adorned with golden embellishments and oversized collars exuded a lavish feel, while Fendi doll accessories added a playful touch. Femininity was expressed through fluid silhouettes that moved gracefully, while menswear-inspired pieces were reinterpreted with sensuality. Flared midi skirts and dresses brought a flirty touch, and lace evoked intimacy and delicacy.

Amid the playfulness of the women’s wardrobe, men’s looks embraced a smart-chic silhouette, incorporating feminine codes to redefine and modernize classic menswear. Oversized caban coats created a strong look with an emphasis on the shoulders, while captivating visual motifs and pastel colours offered a contemporary take on masculine attire. Rooted in womenswear elegance but with menswear wearability, their wardrobe felt avant-garde and fresh, creative yet timeless.

Words by Carolina Benjumea

CHANEL HAUTE COUTURE SS25

Chanel is easy to identify but hard to explain. And yet, the brand’s studio does it beautifully in the Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2025 collection. It was a classically Chanel offering—staged in a monumental CC metal structure in the middle of the Grand Palais, of course!

The tweed jacket, the canon reinvented, is reimagined in youthful ways. With rounded hems or leg-of-mutton sleeves, satin linings, or adorned with bows—the additions to the silhouette were never heavy or bulky but instead light-hearted. It was Chanel at its softest. Unlike most other collections today, where the cultural current is considered literally, here we see a different, yet equally interesting, strategy. The approach was Rococo-like. Yes, the world is on fire, but why should Chanel be the place where that is reflected? Instead, the studio proposes a more fitting approach. This is Haute Couture— where beauty lives, the kind we can find solace in.

And beautiful it was. Iridescent hand-painted rainbows were splattered on jackets, satin opera coats were layered over minis, embroidered capelets sat atop matching dresses, tied with a velvet bow—even at its most ornate, lightness was commanding. The final look, a high-low wedding dress, even if voluminous, felt playful, capped with an embroidered light jacket.

The studio did what a studio does best: it held down the fort, creating a collection that reads as quintessentially Chanel yet refreshingly modern. There’s no need to reinvent the wheel—its creative leaders over 115 years of history have done it time and time again. And hopefully, so will Matthieu Blazy come next season. For now, resting on the shoulders of giants is more than enough.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

SAINT LAURENT FW25

For a certain type of person, there’s nothing as euphoric as a Saint Laurent show—the same person who has the Juergen Teller portrait of Yves Saint Laurent saved on their phone. For this kind of person (this writer), an Anthony Vaccarello show is the most anticipated of the season, every season. That is because Anthony Vaccarello doesn’t design selfishly, instead, he understands himself in a wider legacy. In his collections, creative intuition is thought through the lens of a pair of acetate glasses. Fall/Winter 2025 is no different.

First, the obvious: the boots. A pair of black leather thigh-high wader boots encapsulated the majority of the collection’s concept. For the first few looks, these were paired with sharp tailoring, the accessory adding an edge to an otherwise classic range. The footwear—beyond being the most interesting styling option of the season by far—was a welcomed reference. Robert Mapplethorpe is often used for inspiration, but Vaccarello doesn’t simplify his legacy to make it instantly recognizable – he considers it calmly. The boots are not only an allusion to the photographer’s S&M explorations, but to the artist himself. Mapplethorpe was often seen and pictured in full leather gear. Referencing a creator alongside their creations isn’t new to Vaccarello.  Fall/Winter 2024 saw the iconography of Yves Saint Laurent’s personal style analysed. The latest collection carries over, not only an extension of this approach, but also some of its most successful moments. Suits and long coats remain razor-sharp even when contrasted by the shiny boots—perhaps looking even more cutting. By bridging these two references, Vaccarello hosts a conversation between two of the most culturally impactful queer men of the 20th century.

But even though the Savile Row-meets-The Eagle energy was omnipresent, Vaccarello went deeper than mere dialogue. As we’ve seen peppered throughout the season he’s unofficially closing, there’s been an instinct to reference the current shift in the cultural and political currents. Vaccarello doesn’t ponder what he doesn’t understand; instead, he hones in on what he does—and how that is affected when stormy weather approaches. After all, despite the state of the world, we still all put on (in this case, leather) pants one leg at a time. How is clothing used to feign the everyday when the everyday is something we no longer recognise? Here again, the instinct isn’t to create a parable but to look for guidance in the founder of the maison he leads. What fashion was Saint Laurent making when he was at his lowest? By researching the collections, Vaccarello positions plumes as an answer. In the last quadrant of the collection – when the tailoring mellows and oversized leather bombers nod to an ’80s source – plumes begin to appear. First, as a shroud atop a long coat, then flickering at the collar of others, until eventually they take over, enveloping pieces in a voluminous grandeur that serves as the closing piece to the show. As the last look walks by, and the euphoria finally begins to settle, it becomes clear: Vaccarello isn’t just preserving Saint Laurent’s narrative, he’s making it necessary all over again.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

KENZO FW25

Love was in the air for Fall/Winter 2025. No, not in its traditional cupid-running-around sense, but in its platonic iteration. All over town, designers seemed trigger-happy when it came to collaborating. Fresh off his partnership with Pharrell Williams for Louis Vuitton, Nigo revealed Kenzo’s latest collection with another longtime creative partner, Futura. The Japanese designer teamed up with the American graffiti titan for a colourful and joyous collection. There was no mistaking the pieces the duo worked on: the Kenzo flower appeared paint-sprayed in Futura’s signature style, the atom logo was scribbled on workwear-inspired sets, and there were reimagined interpretations of Kenzo’s iconic flower throughout.

Nigo’s continued exploration of traditional Japanese wear was evident in kimono-like silhouettes and fully patterned satin sets layered over white shirts. The designer’s tenure at Kenzo has been dedicated to exploring the love affair between Paris and Tokyo, represented here through Mount Fuji prints and pachinko-parlour-machine-inspired knitwear. While the tension between these two cities has become something of an expectation at Kenzo, Fall/Winter 2025 introduced New York into the mix—an obvious nod to Futura’s presence. Beyond the graffiti-inspired pieces, campy accessories in the shape of bouquet wraps, beer bottle holders, and shopping bags were featured, all inspired by what Nigo observed people carrying around the city in the ’90s.

In a week defined by reflections on the state of the world, Kenzo felt refreshing, alluding to a past that few can relate to but many long for. Pops of colour in lapels and gloves felt heartwarming—just what we needed in the rain.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

WILLY CHAVARRIA FW25

Few things excite us as much as Willy Chavarria—and we’re not just talking about the Willy boys, the series of hunks who serve as his muses. So when it was announced that the designer would show his Fall/Winter 2025 collection in Paris instead of his home turf, New York, patience was hard to maintain. When the day finally arrived and our expectations were sky-high, Chavarria still managed to exceed them.

Set in the American Cathedral in Paris, the designer took Paris to church. Named Tarantula—an allusion to the way minority communities are vilified for their reactions—the collection leaned into religious themes. The first models walked out with rosaries in hand. Chavarria’s signature experiments with workwear and tailoring continued, with a stronger emphasis on the latter. Oversized suits were standouts, as were their tighter fits—always featuring exaggerated shirt collars popping out of the jackets, of course.

But if the show started on a holy note, it soon inched toward something a lot more playful. The devil was literally spelled out in a red set. The final sinful nail in the coffin came toward the end of the collection when the lights turned red, unveiling the designer’s latest collaboration with Adidas. Worn by the Willy boys, the newest iteration of this ongoing project embodied the sin of lust.

Spirituality wasn’t merely a set piece or prop—it’s woven into Chavarria’s DNA. When Chavarria came out for his final bow, his head was lowered for a deeper reason. Bishop Reverend Mariann Budde’s prayer reverberated through the Revival Gothic building. Originally delivered just two days prior during Donald Trump’s inauguration sermon, the message was one of acceptance as a form of defiance in times of hardship. Chavarria is evolving, but his mission remains unchanged.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

LANVIN FW25

In his runway debut, Peter Copping returned to the DNA of Lanvin with a collection honouring the classic elegance of the brand. The designer introduced a feminine rendition of menswear with sophisticated and timeless looks, inspired by feminine constructions.

Lanvin is the oldest couture house still in operation, and this collection explored the roots that made Lanvin a household name in the industry, as well as Jeanne Lanvin’s legacy. Copping’s background in womenswear allowed him to use feminine codes and adapt them into a men’s wardrobe, portraying delicacy in the garments and intimacy between the wearer and the clothes.

With clean silhouettes and flawless tailoring, the collection was a blend of understated luxury and modernity. The fabrics, motifs, and embroideries gave a sumptuous feeling and created a collection rich with artistic flair, while showcasing dynamism and high energy in classic designs. Deep golden tones and sequin fabrics imprinted the overall offering with a lavish effect.

The impeccable craftsmanship was proof of the brand’s attention to detail and technical prowess. Structured coats and trousers flawlessly fit the models, while dresses with movement respected the natural shapes of the body. Showcasing Lanvin’s couture legacy and mastery in construction, the show closed with dramatic and voluminous gowns. The black velvet emphasized timeless sophistication, while the gold dress with metallic texture showcased an opulent aesthetic.

With Copping, Lanvin is successfully entering a new era where design and technical innovation meet tradition and craftsmanship. With this collection, he demonstrated his ability to turn classic pieces into contemporary, artistic, and luxurious creations—quintessential values to Lanvin.

Words by Carolina Benjumea

JACQUEMUS SS25

Set inside the Parisian art deco apartment designed by Auguste Perret, Simon Porte Jacquemus presented one of the most grown-up collections for his eponymous label to date. Presented by a line-up of supermodels (Christy Turlington! Doutzen Kroes! Eva Herzigova!) in a haute couture salon-like matter, the Spring 2025 offering was rich in old-world elegance.

The show opened with a string of looks featuring cocoon-like coats and voluminous skirts. The feeling of sophistication was further mastered in the ensemble worn by Alex Consani – an oversized feather coat, which evoked the glamour of Truman Capote’s “Swans”. Looks were accessorised with ladylike bags and shoes – long leather clutches and kitten heels. But because this is a Jacquemus show that we’re talking about, the signature sexy touch was not lost. Floor-length gowns in black and red, though appearing demure from the front, featured slits on the side cut low enough to give a peek of the underwear. Leather corset belts cinched both womenswear and menswear looks, and the shortest of shorts were paired with blazers, jackets and coats.

As the models walked the final time to Mon Dieu by Edith Piaf, Jacquemus’ intention for the season was clear – this spring, we’re channelling the ladies (and gentlemen) who lunch, and have a lot of joy doing so!

Words by Martin Onufrowicz

DIOR HOMME FW25

A gigantic white staircase lights up as the Dior Homme Fall/Winter 2025 show is about to begin. Down it descends a model wearing a black blindfold, a simple sweater, and voluminous balloon pants resembling a ball skirt. And while the initial shock of a blindfolded model walking down steep stairs subsides, the dramatic silhouette leaves a lasting impression. Little did we know, that was merely the opening look of one of the season's most remarkable collections. Kim Jones, now eight years into his tenure, presented one of the most impressive offerings of his career.

Devoid of colour or pattern for the most part, the collection primarily featured black, grey and muted pink. His historically consistent focus on streetwear was transformed—adapted into a matter of silhouette rather than logos. Simple leather cropped jackets were impeccably cut.

The collection’s success lay not only in its aesthetic impact but also in its depth, which reached back to the house’s earliest codes. It drew inspiration from Monsieur Dior’s H-line collection of Fall/Winter 1954. Now, 71 years later, Jones reinvents those codes, abstracting them into modern tailoring. The show serves as a seamless extension of his most recent experiments. Jones has long flirted with the idea of what a menswear couture line might look like, and his latest collection feels like a definitive conclusion. Mostly forgoing haute couture’s classic extravagance—visible only in subtle crystal embroideries (the final look being the exception)—Jones distills the art of couture into tailoring, using it to craft shapes that exist simultaneously in the past and the future.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

LGN LOUIS GABRIEL NOUCHI FW25

“LGN.” “LGN.” “LGN.” A repetitive hymn blasts from the speakers at the—you guessed it—LGN Louis Gabriel Nouchi show. The track, part anthem, part gay bar background music, is lovely but not necessary. There’s no way we could mistake the collection before us. After eight years at the helm of his namesake label, Nouchi has established a visual identity like no other: classic masculine silhouettes contrasted by skin-tight sheerness. Fall/Winter 2025 was no exception.

Another of his signatures—a classic book as the thematic anchor for the collection—was, of course, present. 1984 felt like a pointed choice. In a political climate that worsens with every billionaire's speech, George Orwell’s dystopian classic resonates deeply, particularly for a brand that is not only outwardly queer but also so progressive, even within the fashion world. A diverse cast—spanning age, body type, height, and gender—reminded us of the commitments many made a few years ago but seem to have since abandoned. The sombre tone was mirrored in cocooning silhouettes, perhaps evoking the childish instinct to hide under the covers.

The straight shoulders—the only straight thing in the show—were, of course, ever-present. This time, however, they appeared in a spectrum of materials, the standout being a short fur that was to die for. Nouchi has redefined masculinity, one that, while borrowing from the aesthetics of its conservative iteration, completely subverts it.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

DRIES VAN NOTEN FW25

There are not enough words to express the depth of the gasp I exhaled when I saw the Dries Van Noten Fall/Winter 2025 collection. After last season’s unforgettable show—the official farewell of its founder—there was a sense of doom and gloom surrounding the collection. But, alas, a few weeks ago, Julian Klausner was announced as the new creative lead. And while the collection was designed solely by the Dries Van Noten studio and merely directed by Klausner, the novelty of a new designer erased any trace of somberness.

At its essence, Dries Van Noten is a joyful company. Of course, the joy wasn’t necessarily spelled out. The collection, romantic with a gloomy undertone, had its moments of glee—flowers punctuated the entire lineup.

Inspired by William Burroughs’ The Wild Boys, the visual language was rooted in a very specific time and place—in this case, Antwerp in the 19th century. Structured trench coats in wool and fur were as opulent as they were romantic. But if it’s romance one desires, a dramatic satin cape satisfies all cravings. The brand’s idiosyncratic prints also received a dark makeover.

It feels poetic for menswear to be the first collection the brand presents after Klausner’s announcement, as it was also Van Noten’s farewell. Menswear, as the narrative core of the brand, bookends its history.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

EGONLAB FW25

A brand responding to the political climate isn’t uncommon—it’s expected. The need to morally connect with their audience is becoming increasingly prevalent. However, what Egonlab presented for their Fall/Winter 2025 show doesn’t feel like a business move but rather a clever, whimsical metaphor for a dark reality. Appropriately named S4LEM, the collection, created by Florentin Glémarec and Kévin Nompeix, is an enchanting statement. Drawing a parallel between the current witch hunt of queer people happening globally—the show coincided with Donald Trump’s inauguration ceremony—and the Salem witch trials of 1692, the creative duo delivered a collection that was as impactful as it was well-executed.

The references emerged in sophisticated ways—there was no overuse of literal witch hats. Instead, voluminous, ragged collars and cuffs on skintight cardigans struck a balance between flamboyance and goth. The rest of the collection existed between those two poles. At times, it leaned toward one edge—silk scarf long-sleeve tops felt particularly queer-coded. At others, it veered toward the sombre—long black coats and full black leather ensembles conveyed a darker tone.

Despite its strong thematic presence, the collection never felt overwhelming. Egonlab’s signature elements were still prominent: nipped-in waists, bold shoulders, and manipulated denim. Interwoven throughout the lineup, the creative duo also introduced pieces from their capsule collection with Zadig & Voltaire, most notably strappy leather bags that added an exciting touch.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

ACNE STUDIOS FW25

There’s something so distinct about Acne Studios’ design. The essence of youth is ever-present—not in a naive, romantic sense, but in its characteristic soft edge. It’s not surprising, then, that when looking for inspiration for the brand’s Fall/Winter 2025 menswear collection, Jonny Johansson turned to what young men are doing online. He searched, and he certainly found it—it being looksmaxxing. The trend involves young men going to the gym, maintaining their skincare routines, and dressing well for the sake of looking good. Essentially, it’s metrosexuality repackaged. The pursuit of looking better is represented in different ways throughout the collection. Shorts directly correlate to the ever-necessary, never-skipped leg day.

Elsewhere, skin-tight, cropped, and low-neckline tank tops feel equally youthful. But it’s not just skimpy athleisure. More traditional menswear looks include a two-piece checked suit, though the idea of formality was subverted in quintessentially Acne-coded trompe l’oeil long-sleeve tops that emulated a suit and tie. Accessories, footwear, and denim are always standouts for the brand, and this collection was no different—the printed jeans were a highlight.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

AMI FW25

Alexandre Mattiussi does genderless better than anyone else. His rendition of neutral garments is often rooted in menswear but with the elegance of womenswear. Through his polished tailoring, he achieves a perfect balance between the strong masculine codes and the delicacy of feminine silhouettes.

In an industrial setting, with a saxophonist providing the musical background, the brand created a refined atmosphere for what would be a minimalistic and sophisticated wardrobe. The collection portrayed a smart-chic style, characterized by simple cuts and sleek outerwear. Loose and oversized silhouettes in a neutral colour palette were present throughout the show, creating versatile and relaxed looks.

Striking coats in structured cuts were central to the collection, providing each look with attitude and opulence. The high-quality materials turned this proposition into a luxurious parade. As one of the main exponents of quiet luxury, AMI delivered a flawlessly crafted collection, captivating the eyes of the viewers.

Perhaps one of the key pieces was the maxi skirts styled with boots, which represented the Parisian touch when it comes to styling garments. The movement of these pieces gave the wearer a feminine feel.

AMI’s collection was the epitome of urban elegance—a wardrobe where garments merge with the city through their effortless nature, bringing a sense of freedom to the person who wears them while creating a sleek and sophisticated silhouette.

Words by Carolina Benjumea

LEMAIRE FW25

Oh, to live in a Lemaire world. As proven once again with yesterday’s FW25 show, Christophe Lemaire and Sarah Linh-Tran are at the very top when it comes to creating an intriguing universe that you desperately want to be a part of.

Lemaire is synonymous with elegance – we know that. But with their latest proposition, the sophistication was paired with a thrilling sense of grit. Black leather made an appearance throughout the collection, from roomy jackets and bandanas to trousers with matching boots (worn under a voluminous wool coat). A stand-out menswear look featured a suede grey blazer paired with a shirt and wide jeans in the same hue. The signature restrained palette of Lemaire (black, navy, chocolate brown, beige) was broken up with energetic colour accents – from a cobalt blue shirt worn with dark navy outerwear to a head-to-toe womenswear look in fiery red.

The accessories hinted at a humorous side of the design duo. Lemaire’s popular statement necklaces were worn throughout, featuring pendants in the shapes of harmonicas, pocket knives or castanets. The simultaneously oversized and delicate feathery earrings swayed with the model’s walk, while a bag embellished with a blue eye in metal made the audience members feel seen in more ways than one.

Words by Martin Onufrowicz

PAUL SMITH FW25

Paul Smith has always mastered the art of infusing creativity into an otherwise classic wardrobe. His choice of colours, textures, and prints creates a fun and youthful approach to timeless pieces. 

For this season, the brand introduced an offering inspired by the stylish photographers of the 20th century, blending preppy aesthetics with a touch of underground subcultures. Staying true to its DNA, traditional British tailoring merged with playful motifs, creating a synergy of styles that exudes sophistication and luxury.

Paul Smith understands better than anyone how to blend eclecticism with craftsmanship. His designs strike a balance between wearability, individuality, and creativity. The multicolour stripe motif appeared on sweaters, while prints adapted from photographs taken by Paul’s father featured prominently throughout the collection. A ‘Field Flower’ motif adorned blue and orange shirts, derived from a photograph of wild daisies, showcasing the artistic drive behind his brand and evoking a vintage aesthetic.

He dresses a man who is unafraid to experiment with ambitious hues and motifs, which play an important role in revealing a softer side to the wearer. The looks incorporate an interesting twist with eye-catching elements: vibrant orange cardigans, corduroy ensembles for added texture, and unexpected proportions in jackets and trousers.

Words by Carolina Benjumea

MAGLIANO FW25

For its Fall-Winter ’25 menswear collection, Magliano introduced a minimal approach to clothing, where the centre of it was the flawless constructions and the person who wears them. Known for its high-quality fabrics and tailoring, the brand showcased its expertise in crafting garments faithful to the body, with creativity in mind.

With an intimate feeling throughout the show, Magliano gave us Italian heritage with a twist. The main character of the presentation was the tailored suit and its different iterations. From classic grey and corporate to playful and laid-back, the essence of craftsmanship was visible throughout each look.

Jackets in cotton ribbed fabric, mohair trousers, padded crepe-de-chine outerwear, and shiny knitwear adorned with Swarovski crystals were given a sensual touch. T-shirts knotted around jackets and oversized suits gave a powerful energy to the wearer, creating an interesting conversation between the body and the garment, as well as the contrast between classic and modern. The looks were deconstructed with a focus on textures and layering, creating a wardrobe that is contemporary, comfortable, and easy to pair with other garments. The bags wearing underwear, signed Medea, added a playful element to the looks.

A dark setting set the mood for the overall collection. Hues of greys, military greens, navy blues, and some purples created a mysterious and thoughtful ambience. The diversity of the casting emphasised an interesting narrative between the clothing and the models, as their different looks mixed with the eclecticism of the clothing. The collection had a masculine feeling with deconstructed elements that hint at a soft and fluid vision of the modern man. 

Words by Carolina Benjumea

PRADA FW25

Fur is so back, baby. Well, at least if you listen to Mrs. Prada and Raf Simons—which we do. For men’s Fall/Winter 2025, the duo presented a collection that finally lets us stop pretending and admit that fur—faux, obviously—is hot. Smartly cut outerwear was adorned with roughly cut shearling pelts. The idea of primitivity, practically spelled out in these pieces, was central to understanding the show. Fur was further explored closer to the body, layered under light jackets.

Accompanying the furs were knits adorned with metal symbols, purposeful in their purposelessness—meant to emulate empty amulets.

Duality, that ever-essential tension in any given Prada collection, was front and centre. Carelessly placed pelts were strutted on by models wearing ‘70s floral cowboy boots. The untamed/domestic dichotomy shone as sharply cut pyjama sets—the poster children for homely comfort—interrupted the omnipresent furry chic.

The idea carried over to the set—always an unexpected treat at any Prada show. This season, the loosely screwed scaffolding (some attendees complained about its fragile appearance, but we have full trust in Mrs. Prada) was floored with fluffy printed rugs.

It’s easy to overthink a Prada collection. You see the juxtaposition of fur pieces with 2015-ish silhouettes, the mix of colourful bowling bags with shrunken floral T-shirts, and the intellectual intent practically leaps out at you. Yet backstage, Simons steers us away from overanalyzing. “We come to a point where we say, ‘That feels right.’ We try not to dictate something or make a theory.”

So, let’s stop trying—interpretations are futile. It’s good, it’s Prada, that’s all it matters.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

EMPORIO ARMANI FW25

Emporio Armani’s opulence has always shone through its vocabulary. However, this season’s collection has truly shown the power of luxurious fabrics, lavish prints, and tailored pieces. Through a wardrobe for a sophisticated man, the brand seeks to create designs that are timeless but with a youthful feeling.

The show opened with outdoor clothing intended for extreme cold weather, such as puffer jackets, oversized scarves, cargo trousers, and XXL backpacks in striking colours. Then, a parade of sumptuous, elaborate, and flawlessly crafted looks made their way down the runway.

It’s not every day that we get to see leopard print at an Emporio Armani show, but this season, the brand gave it a sumptuous touch through jackets, shirts and shoes. The Armani man knows how to dress, and he does so effortlessly and tastefully.

He is daring and informed when it comes to mixing and matching fabrics, colours and textures. From velvet coats and trousers with metallic hues to graphic prints, leather, and silk, he is not afraid to experiment. His most classic side is exposed through tailored pinstripe suits and long structured coats. To go out, he likes to wear metallic-threaded pullovers and fur coats. And when he feels like flaunting, he wears tailoring with lavish embroideries. 

The brand really understood the needs of modern men and their relationship to clothing. By providing a contemporary view of elegance through the wardrobe, they can fully embrace their masculinity with grace. Armani’s take on refinement is refreshing and appealing to a younger generation who sees clothing as a medium for experimentation and expression while keeping the codes of timeless taste.

Words by Carolina Benjumea

JORDANLUCA FW25

The Jordanluca Fall-Winter '25 show was a celebration of love. Against a romantic pink and white backdrop adorned with flowers, models and guests posed in what initially seemed like a fashion gathering. A romantic, dream-like vibe filled the show, with the background music setting the mood and Mendelssohn’s Wedding March preparing the audience for what was to come: the wedding of Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto.

Over the years, Jordanluca has become a bold staple on the Milan Fashion Week scene. Their brand is a daring mix of Italian timeless design and London’s counter-culture energy. Through urban and streetwear silhouettes, they have positioned themselves at the centre of modern masculinity while maintaining craftsmanship in their DNA. This collection stayed true to their individuality and edgy approach to design.

The show was a mix of styles that came together to create an eclectic collection. From preppy looks characterised by blazers, sweaters, tailored coats, and buttoned shirts, to elements reminiscent of the Punk movement, such as chunky platform shoes, oversized leather jackets, and studded leather belts, as well as feminine pieces like pencil skirts, each look showcased elegance with a modern twist.

The juxtaposition of classic and unconventional was further complemented by the dichotomy between feminine and masculine. Mini dresses and skirts appeared alongside cargo pants and deconstructed pieces, creating a free-spirited and creative feeling throughout. Some models walked down the runway holding red roses, adding an enigmatic yet sexy allure.

After the models' final walk, an officiant appeared to celebrate the wedding of the designers. The touching speech retracing the history of their relationship, the intimate and charming setting, the vows, the final kiss, and the six-tier wedding cake all stood as proof of the enduring bonds forged through the creative vision of their brand.

Words by Carolina Benjumea

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