Filling the shoes of Giorgio Armani is not for the faint of heart, but a slightly less complex task when done by someone who knows his namesake brand from the inside out. That is the case with Silvana Armani, Mr Armani’s niece and the current creative director of womenswear at the Giorgio Armani group, a role she proudly took over after her uncle’s passing in September last year.
Silvana Armani’s first-ever show for the Italian house as solo creative director was Armani Privé Spring Couture 2026, although she has been part of the team for over four decades. Critically praised, the show highlighted lightweight, feminine-centred pieces, adding a touch of ease to often strict couture garments.
Past the pressure of the debut, Fall/Winter 2026 was the Italian designer’s chance to establish another facet of her own vision for the label. Simple yet elegant, practical yet sophisticated, the collection proved the state of continuity of the brand, without leaving any of Mr Armani’s fundamental work behind.
Giorgio Armani's shows typically follow an order, starting with casual, everyday, and tailored pieces that tend to progress to elaborate garments and eveningwear through both materiality and detailing. This time, a pair of models inaugurated the catwalk, twinning in sharp tailored grey cashmere suits and trousers, which only differed by the animal-themed red brooch each of them carried – beginning with a lion’s head, then a crab, to represent Silvana and Giorgio’s star signs, respectively.
From then on, long coats in wool and silk, classic-cut blazers, and a few knitwear numbers, most of them styled with slouchy, white trousers and a thin burgundy belt, embodied Silvana Armani’s eye for comfort and wearability.
Additional renditions of the same looks, yet in different colours, appeared throughout the show, always presented by a duo of models walking side by side. Mr Armani's signature deep blue shade – the so-called azure tone – materialised in velvet sets, embroidered jumpsuits, kimonos worn over printed trousers, and draped dresses and tops, a reference to the label’s archives and his vigorous use of Eastern Asian motifs.
Inspired by the hues of dawn, the colour palette was delicate. Jade and blush tones, previously seen on couture, made a comeback for ready-to-wear, complemented by burgundy, gradient purples and greys. Silvana Armani’s appointment marks a new chapter at the house, the company's first with a female designer as the creative lead, and desired by those who crave clothes to live in.
Words by Ketlyn Araujo
