showreport

AGNÈS B. SS27

Agnès B.’s Men’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection was not showcased via a traditional catwalk show format but through an intimate presentation held at the Parisian brand's headquarters.

The more laid-back, homely setup, which included branded, candy-coloured surfboards as part of the decoration, matched the tone of the lineup: a mixture of seasonal staples, ultralight tailoring and joyful, eye-catching summer tees and shirts.

For lovers of colour, plenty of short- and long-sleeved shirts featured micro patterns and printed beach landscapes, while tie-dye-style tees leaned into a more casual proposal. Speaking of sand and salt, a few jewellery pieces also captured the summery spirit, from pendant rock necklaces to seashell lapel brooches. A dungaree in pale orange and a navy, short-sleeved button-up jumpsuit conveyed a practical feel.

There was also space for more minimal styles, with day-to-day black T-shirts and textured tank tops mixed with dark floral trousers. A couple of black leather and silk bombers were spotted, as were classic tailored Bermuda shorts, fitted trousers, and linen suits. Detailing was on point, hence the subtle fireman clasp on a jacket with its collar popped, the use of neck scarves and the light layers placed over button-downs.

Besides suiting, matching shorts-and-jacket sets offered comfort when dressing, while a robe-style jacket worn with ecru shorts was paired with a colour-coordinating shirt underneath. Headwear options were plentiful, ranging from fedoras and bucket hats to all-time favourites like baseball caps.

Leaning into the lightness of typical summer materials, linens and cottons were naturally key collection fabrics. The use of stripes, a label signature element since its first menswear store opening back in the 1980s, was this time implemented on polo-style, short- and long-sleeved shirts and T-shirts, as well as on a couple of suits, including a pink variation that would do wonders for the gaze if seen walking down a Parisian street.


Words by Ketlyn Araujo

YOHJI YAMAMOTO SS27

Yohji Yamamoto absorbed the heat hanging over Paris, his idiosyncratic layers reconsidered, lighter. Long coats were punctured with oversized eyelets that functioned as ornament just as they did ventilation, while boots and high-top shoes opened into mesh panels that allowed air to circulate. The familiar density of a Yohji silhouette gave way to something noticeably more porous.

The collection revolved around the shoulder. Sleeves expanded, collapsed and shifted shape from one look to the next, borrowing from historical dress. Soft forms, deflated structures and sharp, armour-like peaks altered the body's proportions, drawing attention upward while allowing the rest of the silhouette to fall with ease. Yamamoto treated tailoring as something capable of movement before structure, allowing volume to migrate across the garment instead of remaining fixed.

A recurring combination of loose coats, shirts or vests, and elongated shorts established the rhythm of the show. The interruption of the trouser line felt significant. Where Yamamoto often builds verticality through uninterrupted length, the exposed leg introduces intervals within the silhouette.

Surface decoration arrived gradually. Grayscale prints dissolved into deep red devoré florals before giving way to delicate lace shirts, clusters of buttons and loose crimson threads that hung from garments like unfinished stitches. Towards the end, beige cotton with frayed edges and shimmering knits woven with silver and copper threads softened the collection further.


Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

DRIES VAN NOTEN SS27

“These nymphs, I do not want to let them go—/ their clear, carnation-tinted afterglow/ still shimmering in air, the warp of sleep. / Was it a dream I fell for?” Inspired by Stéphane Mallarmé's L'Après-midi d'un faune, Julian Klausner staged the most romantic show of the season. Embracing the atmosphere of the poem, where reality is suspended to favour fantasy, Klausner’s collection did something similar. In the Tennis Club of Paris, in the city’s 16th arrondissement, amidst a heatwave, the designer suspended the sweat dripping from guests’ foreheads.

Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2027 unfolded with lightness. Organza shirts hovered over the body, silk cargo trousers moved with effortless fluidity, tailoring dissolved into sheer layers, and embroidery shimmered across garments.

Klausner understands that the house has always excelled at creating mood. Prints, decoration and rich colour have never functioned as isolated signatures. This season, fabric carried that responsibility. Transparency became a way of constructing silhouettes rather than exposing them. Layers shifted with every step, giving garments a sense of motion, every look designed to respond to light, air and movement.

Klausner trusts texture to carry the narrative. Silk scarves are suspended on bodies as tops, its back showing the flowing corners. A pair of embroidered shorts juxtaposed adorned opacity with translucent movement. Transparent layers transform with changing light.

The colour story reinforced that feeling. Washed lilacs, dusty ochres, pale greens and softened neutrals flowed through the collection without dramatic interruption. The wardrobe unfolded gradually, like changing daylight across the course of an afternoon, just as the poem Klausner was inspired by does. As the collection progressed, the soft pastels transitioned into dark navy and warm purple. “Farewell, sweet pair. / I’m entering the darkness you now are.”


Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

WILLY CHAVARRIA SS27

For Spring/Summer 2027, Willy Chavarria introduced Comunión, a collection presented at the modernist Espace Niemeyer in Paris, the headquarters of the French Communist Party. For this season, the designer's Chicano references became more personal, delivering a message of unity and community during dark times.

Shirts are central to the collection: oversized button-downs, loosely tucked into trousers, layered under jackets, or transformed into shirt dresses, becoming a versatile staple in everyday life. A sheer shirt dress covered in red floral motifs was one of the standout looks, creating a sense of delicacy and romanticism.

As always, Chavarria's femininity is tough, represented through broad shoulders, oversized tailoring, and relaxed silhouettes. A kind of femininity that feels very much ingrained in the Latino approach to feminine ideals.

Colour-blocking combinations, ranging from soft pastels to earthy classics, something common in Chavarria's work, give the looks a playful and unexpected energy. Floral motifs, a signature of the designer's visual language, appear throughout the menswear and womenswear looks. Rather than denoting femininity or delicacy, they become symbols of confidence and self-expression.

Jackets, loose pleated trousers, knitwear, wide-leg tailoring, midi dresses, pencil skirts, and cropped shorts create an everyday wardrobe that feels creative yet practical, designed for ease of movement. The toughness of leather gives the collection a sensual and bold approach. Double-breasted suits appear throughout the collection in a variety of hues, reinforcing the designer's signature approach to oversized tailoring while balancing structure with fluidity.


Words by Carolina Benjumea

SOSHIOTSUKI SS27

In a recent interview during Paris Fashion Week, Soshi Otsuki said that, growing up, he did not have a chance to experience a European summer holiday. That is one of the reasons why, for SOSHIOTSUKI’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection, the Japanese designer and founder of his namesake label opted to imagine what that would feel like.

His inspiration was rooted in memory and nostalgia, drawn from personal perception and from what he had seen in film, photography, and the lives of others, the latter known and perceived mostly through imagination.

Otsuki’s muse is not, however, your average tourist. Instead, he envisioned a traditional, business-attire-wearing, strict father who goes on holiday and, slowly, relaxes and loosens up. The clothes reflected this idea, softly tailored by applying a technique that goes beyond fabric choice and is also mastered via precise pattern cutting and material construction.

Collars were purposefully flipped out, and the buttons on shirts and shorts were consciously undone. Belts and lapels, wired to form an “S” shape, freeze the moment when clothes come off, and stiffness and rigidity are left behind for complete freedom. Otsuki aimed to translate this almost awkward, vulnerable feeling, only possible once any idea of business-centred perfection is left behind.

Woven threads of wool and linens formed new colourways in a palette marked by grey and beige, blues, clay, and pale green, while cottons were washed and garment-dyed to create a marked-by-time, worn, aired, and sun-bleached effect.

On the mood board for the collection was also the work of Spanish surrealist artist Salvador Dalí, who often depicted melted objects in his paintings. The concept was introduced into SOSHIOTSUKI’s lineup by the use of structured, internal reinforcements inside the garments, which, from a distance, looked soft and able to collapse.

Trompe-l'œil ties on shirts, as well as shorts that seemed to have swim trunks or underwear peeking out, served as prime examples of Otsuki’s impressive garment construction skills, one of the traits that granted him an LVMH Prize for Young Designers in 2025.

MAGLIANO SS27

“Browsing through an album is like caressing an immaterial patina that relegates even something from just yesterday to the realm of memory,” read Magliano’s Spring/Summer 2027 press release, its opening line teasing Luca Magliano’s starting point for the collection. Before Magliano’s lookbook release, the Bolognese designer requested treasured family photos from his team members, inspiring enough to fuel the lineup of twenty-one looks in total.

Magliano then realised an image-based coincidence. “Photographs from the 2000s and those from the 1970s behave in the same relentless way: impossible to tell whether what is deteriorating is the medium itself, the eye of the beholder, or the very atmosphere surrounding things that-no-longer-are,” continue the show notes.

In terms of garment construction and retro references, purple and brown floral prints were clearly influenced by the ‘70s aesthetic, as was the height of the waist of multiple tailored trousers and the shape of oversized blazer jackets.

Along with knitwear, tailoring is, of course, a Magliano speciality and one of the reasons why the designer and the label received an LVMH Karl Lagerfeld Prize in 2023. Rooted in both Italian and queer cultures and often presented with a touch of irony and disruption, Magliano masters the art of defying gender norms through design.

SS27 included two brand collaborations, one with the heritage Italian sportswear label Diadora and another with the Austrian-founded, Italian-based eyewear label Carrera. Vintage tracksuits, crepe running sets, and everyday sunglasses, respectively, materialised in both collabs.

A few items incorporated built-in styling tricks, as if mimicking layering and shirt collars. Rolled-up jackets, shirt sleeves, and trouser hemlines portrayed a common way of coping with the heat, while scarves and handkerchiefs were transformed from simple seasonal accessories to central pieces, from bras to tops and skirts.

Besides the seventies flower motifs, prints included sheer tartan, a knitted top with a cherry pattern, and a cheetah shirt tucked into matching denim trousers, a perfect, Y2K-influenced cherry on top.


Words by Ketlyn Araujo

SACAI SS27

A modern, co-created spin on the ultimate preppy, classic tailored pieces from heritage New York City label Brooks Brothers. A mood board – and soundtrack – thought out and influenced by 1980s British musical collective Soul II Soul, resulting in clothing prints designed in collaboration with its founder, Jazzie B, and his footballer son Mahlon Romeo.

A contemporary take on some of men’s favourite summer shoes, conceived along with German footwear giant Birkenstock, where sandals and mules with maxi buckles were paired with mustard yellow and bright red socks. Only Chitose Abe can blend it all, remix it, and make it effortlessly work at Sacai.

For her Spring/Summer 2027 collection, much more centred on menswear, although with a few women’s looks in sight, Abe made garment tradition, musical history, and streetwear culture clash with grace. With the self-explanatory title The New Classics, the Japanese designer brought a subverted focus on wardrobe staples and, as she masterfully does, experimented with colour, fabric splicing, detailing, and proportion.

Examples of the latter are easy to spot, from tassels adorning traditional white-and-blue button-downs to striped silk neck accessories that sit on the body as a hybrid between a tie and a scarf. Fireman clasps were added to short-sleeved shirts and double-breasted jackets, as well as to trenches and longer coats.

Utilitarianism was organically included in the lineup, where trousers with Sacai’s signature loose fit featured generous waist pockets. Speaking of pockets galore, the detail smartly added to the show's practical preppiness. Double denim in dark wash also graced the catwalk with a sort of rosette-inspired striped pocket square/brooch, also seen on summer shirts and leather jackets.

Archival and album images from Soul II Soul were transformed into a grainy, grey collage pattern, used to craft a tailored suit and matching shorts set, as well as a clasped button-down. Printed t-shirts equally paid homage to the group, with Abe wearing one of them to take her bow after the finale. Jazzie B and Mahlon Romeo were sitting front row to witness Abe’s magic, along with musician and Louis Vuitton menswear creative director Pharrell Williams, a Sacai supporter from the very start.


Words by Ketlyn Araujo

EGONLAB SS27

After a day spent running across Paris from one show to the next in sweltering 40-degree heat, EGONLAB delivered exactly what the audience needed: a welcome jolt of energy. For Spring/Summer 2027, Florentin Glémarec and Kévin Nompeix presented a wardrobe that embraces uncertainty, proposing clothing that celebrates transformation. The collection centred on fluid silhouettes that shift effortlessly, finding beauty in evolution and the spaces between.

That sense of transition ran through every look. Trompe-l'œil details blurred the boundaries between garments: shirts appeared to seamlessly merge with the ties layered over them through printed illusions, while trousers and jeans were visually fused with boots — a playful yet impeccably executed detail that felt refreshingly original. Tailoring, meanwhile, was infused with a distinctly sensual edge. Blazers were tucked into shorts to create sharply defined waists, while striped ties echoed the oversized cuffs of the shirts beneath, reinforcing the collection's precise visual rhythm.

The designers also offered their take on Coquette Core, balancing softness with strength. Satin and lace micro shorts were paired with structured bomber jackets and sturdy pirate boots, creating a compelling tension between delicacy and utility. Lustrous fabrics reappeared in a fluid slip dress — particularly appealing in the Parisian heat — as well as in a coordinated shirt, shorts, and tie ensemble that epitomised the collection's playful elegance.

Elsewhere, René Magritte's iconic painting The Lovers inspired sculptural pleats cascading across a workwear jacket, its substantial silhouette contrasted by delicate sandals created in collaboration with Port Menorca. Frame-shaped necklaces further underscored the dialogue between fantasy and functionality that defined the collection.

Rather than reflecting a world on the brink of collapse, EGONLAB chose to offer a more optimistic response to contemporary reality — one where individuality and tenderness become forceful acts of defiance.

And then came the finale. After the designers took their bow alongside the models, members of the EGONLAB team sprinted onto the runway armed with plastic water guns, gleefully spritzing the audience. Equal parts refreshing and irreverent, it was the perfect ending to a show that refused to take itself too seriously. A sense of humour in fashion? Far too underrated.


Words by Martin Onufrowicz

KIKO KOSTADINOV SS27

For Spring/Summer 2027, Kiko Kostadinov was inspired by artist Agostino Bonalumi. Monochromatic paintings juxtaposed geometric shapes under stretched-out canvases. While the reference was taken literally in rare moments, as in a brown top with glued boning that resembled one of Bonalumi’s pieces, his sculptural minimalism was used as a North Star.

The artist’s forms are conducive to a movement that began last season – the paring down of his vocabulary, boiling his idiosyncratic language to its essential forms – the evolution here is deliberately gradual. Rather than introducing a new silhouette outright, Kostadinov allows ideas to migrate from one garment to another, becoming increasingly abstract as the collection unfolds.

A lozenge-like geometric form first protrudes from the chest of T-shirts, appearing almost as an anatomical intervention. As the collection progresses, it hardens into rigid, stringless necklaces on the centre of the chest before reappearing once more as the structure of belts. A single motif is allowed to evolve across categories, shifting function while retaining its sculptural presence.

Elsewhere, familiar garments are disrupted through measured interventions. Shirt linings emerge beyond their edges, exposing construction that would typically remain concealed, its form flowing as models walk by.

Tailoring becomes the primary site of experimentation. Jackets are not dismantled but gently recalibrated: lapels are abbreviated until they become little more than extensions of the collar, while proportions are adjusted to create new silhouettes without abandoning traditional dressmaking logic. Funnel-neck wool coats and technical fabric jackets reinforce this controlled architectural quality.

The same economy extends to accessories. Bags are reduced to singular pieces of leather folded onto themselves, their construction as restrained as the garments they accompany.


Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

GIVENCHY SS27

Following an assured womenswear that re-established Givenchy's foundations, Sarah Burton turned her attention to menswear for the first time at the house. Spring/Summer 2027 marked her debut men's collection. Rather than distancing herself from Givenchy's recent, streetwear-inflected identity, Burton carefully began reconciling it with the maison's storied heritage.

Tailoring was outstanding. Even if that comes as little surprise from a designer like Burton, who has spent much of her career perfecting the craft, its execution here was impeccable. A white coat stood out in particular, its front folds naturally forming a sculptural lapel, a deceptively simple construction that showcased the designer’s precision. It was tailoring at its most intelligent.

It wasn't all business, though. Classic tailoring staples were given subtle twists throughout the collection. Crisp white shirts were finished with jewelled cufflinks, while a pale blue button-down featured a removable collar.

Elsewhere, a brilliant, high-shine yellow coat brought a striking burst of colour. The embroidered rose motif, first introduced in her debut womenswear collection for Givenchy, returned here. Gone were the loose threads that previously extended the embroidery into three dimensions. Instead, the motif was fully integrated into the garments themselves, covering both a sharply structured coat and a bomber jacket in dense, all-over embroidery.

Still, for as rooted in couture as the maison is, Givenchy's past decade has been deeply immersed in streetwear. Burton approaches that legacy cautiously at first. A black coat conceals a vivid blue tartan lining before opening to reveal a matching shirt and trousers in the same pattern. As the collection progresses, she leans further into that language with a series of leather tracksuits in black, pink, yellow, red, and green, each complemented with matching voluminous sneakers.


Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

CDG HOMME PLUS SS27

Six fully striped looks in variations of green, blue, and pink hues opened the catwalk at Rei Kawakubo’s Spring/Summer 2027 show for Comme des Garçons Homme Plus. There was an immediate sense of lightness to the garments, most of them airy, pyjama-looking shirts, and frock coats, often layered together and paired over loose skirts and shorts.

Colour took centre stage in the collection from start to finish, especially when comparing this lineup with what Kawakubo presented in the past couple of seasons at the label. Juxtaposed with her deeply emotional and reflective Fall/Winter 2025 collection, To Hell with War, this one was titled If the War Were to End, a more hopeful and dreamlike approach towards a recurring, although not explored enough, theme in contemporaneity. Kawakubo’s design language is still always intentional.

The show progressed with a handful of pastel-printed combos, mostly light coats and jackets. Their patterns recalled camouflage prints that morphed joyfully, as if army apparel had become a distant, blurred memory.

Instead of battle helmets, summer hats in many sizes, with dangling silver hair strings, were worn by every single model, sometimes doubled to maximise proportions. Instead of combat boots, a few ankle boots were crafted with an extremely elongated, pointed-toe silhouette, curved in a way that resembled medieval footwear. How long have we been waiting for the war to be over?

When it comes to both design and philosophy, the vibrancy of it all continued through red tartan sets and graphic logo skirts and shirts in primary yellow, blue, and green, as well as lime and electric blue slung trousers with elastic waistbands.

The colour black, a personal favourite of Kawakubo and the main theme of the Japanese designer’s Comme des Garçons Fall/Winter 2026 collection, was not overlooked but was more subtle. It appeared in tailored jackets and trousers styled with bright-toned button-downs, as well as in the five final looks which closed the show, one of them featuring the words ‘my energy comes from freedom.’ May Kawakubo’s prophecy come true.


Words by Ketlyn Araujo

IM MEN SS27

IM MEN’s Spring/Summer ‘27 collection was a fluid and poetic interpretation of menswear. Tailoring, artisanal craftsmanship, and ease came together to create Japanese-inspired silhouettes combined with contemporary tailoring through an artistic approach.

The collection delivered a vision of masculinity that is soft rather than rigid and conventional. Sheer garments, cut-outs, and skin-revealing pieces were part of the language which showcased an expressive masculinity.

Oversized proportions, relaxed tailoring, draped constructions, and fluid garments created a sense of freedom and comfort, while wide-leg trousers, voluminous coats, oversized shirts, and tailored jackets presented the technical mastery of the brand. Jackets featured dropped shoulders, extended lengths, and loose sleeves, with an emphasis on comfort and movement.

The show began with a monochromatic sequence dominated by black, charcoal grey and off-white. As the collection progresses, the palette evolves into vivid shades of green, blue, pink, and metallic tones. Trousers were wide and fluid, while cocoon-like coats, layered tunics, asymmetrical tops, wrapped trousers, and cape-inspired silhouettes evoked an intentional focus on the clothing rather than the body wearing it.


Words by Carolina Benjumea

ACNE STUDIOS SS27

Acne Studios introduced its menswear Spring/Summer ’27 collection, an intellectual yet youthful and playful offering, expressed through pastel tones and classic silhouettes, redefined. The offering has been styled to create a wardrobe for a man who is not afraid of softness and bold colour combinations.

Gender-fluid styling defined the collection.  The colour palette is highlighted by earthy neutrals accented with pastels such as coral pink, mint green, bright orange, emerald green, and turquoise, giving a fresh energy to the looks characterised by their simplicity and wearability.

Office staples were reinvented through a relaxed prism, including wide-leg pleated trousers, oversized leather jackets, and slim or loose unbuttoned shirts, while elongated coats featured clean, minimalist lines. Classic tailored pieces were worn with unexpected twists and combinations, allowing for a refreshed and more spontaneous take on wardrobe classics. Cropped leather biker jackets and lightweight suede blousons reinforced the modern approach the brand wanted to bring to casual wear, creating an enticing contrast between the softness of the overall collection and these tougher pieces.


Words by Carolina Benjumea

LEMAIRE SS27

A Lemaire show is good for the soul. Staged at the Opera Bastille in the 12th arrondissement, the Spring/Summer 2027 collection finds beauty in contradiction, where opposing forces coexist seamlessly. Matte surfaces meet subtle shine, while rigid tailoring softens into flowy draping. Across both womenswear and menswear, Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran continue to refine a wardrobe balancing practicality with a poetic sensibility.

For menswear, the designer duo imagines a tropical-appropriate wardrobe stripped of clichés. Lightweight tailoring, wrap shirts inspired by the yukata and reworked Mandarin jackets speak to a fluid exchange between cultures. Transparent fabrics, airy cottons and relaxed workwear silhouettes embrace heat and ease of movement. A sandy grey set is paired with an elegant take on a flip-flop sandal, while an oversized tie-dye silk shirt evokes the most spectacular sunset. The colour-blocking is refined, creating a soothing feeling: a blue shirt sits underneath an olive blazer, worn with a pair of roomy trousers in muted brown.

Womenswear looks to the liberated spirit of the 1970s, translating its romanticism into a contemporary language. Delicate blouses are draped elegantly and feature an interesting wrap-around detail at the collar. Their flowy nature is juxtaposed with structured skirts that reach the knee and are open on the side. Psychedelic prints, tactile fabrics and adjustable proportions bring softness and spontaneity, while dreamlike artworks by Claudine Wick lend an atmospheric sensuality to mesh jersey, jewellery and clogs.

Throughout the offering, playful details – a pine cone transformed into an earring, a cigar ash weight reimagined as a pendant – capture the brand’s enduring fascination with the subtle moments of surprise that elevate everyday sophisticated dressing. The result? A vision that creates a world more comforting than the best sound bath ever could.


Words by Martin Onufrowicz

RICK OWENS SS27

At the Palais de Tokyo, as is customary, Rick Owens played with the open space of the venue to create a ramp above the water, where models walked surrounded by fountains.

Rick Owens shows always feel introspective, and Spring/Summer 2027 explored the idea of threat, risk, and danger. As per his show notes, this season the designer was thinking about the idea of training: “We are all processing menace, some of us arm, some of us train.” The collection had all the Owens’ codes: an unmistakable dystopian, end-of-the-world feeling expressed through leather pieces, a monochromatic palette, architectural silhouettes, distressed textures, and exaggerated proportions.

Sharply tailored pieces and cocoon-like volumes coexisted with sweatpants, body-hugging garments, balloon-like inflated forms, capes and cage-like pants. This amalgam of styles created a scenario of experimentation and a showcase of the designer’s creative vision, while still considering functionality.

Long coats that extend below the knee introduced a sense of fluid movement throughout the silhouette. They create dramatic proportions while elongating the figure, adding a refined elegance to otherwise utilitarian ensembles.

Sharp shoulders, narrow waists, extended lengths, deep lapels, precise tailoring, and deconstructed garments defined the silhouettes, while cut-out pieces created a sense of chaos and disorder. Low-waist pants emphasised elongated, clean silhouettes, and when paired with the brand’s signature towering boots, created column-like figures. The designer also debuted its new collaboration with Adidas, featuring a slouched boot-sneaker, marking one of the brand’s first high-performance running-inspired pieces.


Words by Carolina Benjumea

AMI SS27

Amid the Parisian heatwave, AMI introduced its Spring/Summer ‘27 collection, in which smart dressing was styled with relaxed codes to create the quintessential wardrobe of modern Parisian style. Honouring its beginnings, which date back 15 years, the collection centred around the white shirt, the canvas from which the label was born and the foundation of the aesthetic that became its signature.

A juxtaposition between urban wear and corporate wear, formal and informal, was present throughout the show. Some outfits felt corporate, while others evoked a Friday-night mood and relaxed Sunday vibes.

Bermudas were mixed with workwear pieces. Slip dresses were styled with shirts, ties, and trousers. Oversized, laid-back fits ran throughout the collection. Windbreakers were styled with sequin skirts. Some looks were playful and broke the commercial nature of the collection, such as skirts resembling buttoned-up shirts tied around the hips. Low-rise pants appeared in both menswear and womenswear looks, creating a youthful and sensual aesthetic, strongly coded with Y2K influences. Mini and pencil skirts were central, reinforcing a feminine aesthetic.

Signature to the brand, the coats were tailored, structured, and long, crafted in lightweight fabrics and leather. The colour palette ranged from earthy tones to vibrant yellows and blues, with red accents throughout. Breaking with the natural harmony of the body, some looks played with proportions, creating an aura full of personality and strength.


Words by Carolina Benjumea

DIOR MEN SS27

The invite for Dior's Spring/Summer 2027 menswear show was a black disco ball. But down the stairs at the Musée Nissim de Camondo wasn’t partywear, more so the day after. This season, Jonathan Anderson conducts a character study of party attendees as they leave the next morning. To this effect, crisp white shirts are paired with colourful overnight knit bags, and silver bow ties are slightly askew on denim shirts.

The opening looks – a trio of suits with dropped lapels was translucent, revealing the white, barely messy white shirts underneath. The light suiting felt novel, different for the legacy Anderson has been building at Dior for officially a year now. His vision, which ranges over the entirety of the maison, is built on a reconsideration of his predecessors’ work through the lens of the founder. Hedi Slimane's circulation-defying jeans, for instance, are softened by Anderson's romanticism, rendered in pale butter yellow and paired with a blue coat trimmed in white.

On the subject of trousers, Anderson seems intent on resetting proportions. Skinny silhouettes remain, but they are no longer the aggressive, rockstar uniform they once were; they’re offset by elongated coats and generous shirting. They’re not totally docile, though. Iterations in silver and gold punctuated the collection, giving the otherwise dandy looks a rakish charm. Glittered versions of the same trousers were paired with relaxed pastel shirts, worn untucked. 

That ease was omnipresent. Ties were loosened, collars left open, jackets shrugged on rather than buttoned. House's codes, like the bar jacket, became completely unravelled, fraying at the edges as if disintegrating.

There is an emerging consistency to Anderson's Dior. Rather than imposing an entirely new vocabulary, he continues to excavate the house's archive, filtering familiar archetypes through his own sensibility. One year in, Anderson's party is only just getting started.


Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

KENZO SS27

For its Spring/Summer ’27 collection, Kenzo presented a wardrobe where sportswear, bohemian influences, and aristocratic elegance unite through a mix-and-match of styles and patterns.

Oversized coats, long cardigans, knitwear, wide-leg trousers, and fluid dresses create an ease and laid-back aesthetic, while structured tailoring and military-inspired jackets give the collection a sense of structure and high-end design.

Layering is key in constructing an aesthetic that is creative and playful, but not overtly dramatic. The accents are on ruffled skirts and prints, while classic silhouettes help tone down the collection, giving it a more commercial and refined aesthetic.

Colour helps create an ethereal feel. Bold stripes appear throughout, while vibrant combinations of yellow, navy, green, red, burgundy, and cream bring energy to the looks. Neutral tones such as camel, beige, grey, black, and ivory ground the offering.

The collection balances romantic femininity with nonchalant masculinity through a series of fluid maxi dresses, lace-trimmed pieces, striped gowns, minis, and soft tailoring, which are styled with knee-high boots, oversized outerwear, and sporty accessories. This juxtaposition creates a femininity that feels modern and fluid rather than restrictive.

In the same way, traditional menswear codes are softened through hues, embroidery, and playful styling choices. Tailored jackets are paired with loose trousers, layered shirts, cardigans, and casual knitwear.


Words by Carolina Benjumea

LOUIS VUITTON SS27

An extreme heatwave hit Paris during this menswear fashion week, making Pharrell Williams’ beach-themed show space for his Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2027 collection a timely match. With sandy floors and an impressive replica of breaking waves serving as a magic sea portal, models emerged onto the catwalk, capturing Williams’ mood for the season: surfwear at its finest, but still essentially Vuitton.

A more literal approach to the theme was shown through actual surfboards and wetsuits, both crafted in monogrammed and logoed versions. Pocket chains, keyrings, sea-themed bag charms, beaded necklaces, and a palm tree print, spotted on summer shirts, slouchier trousers, knits, and short shorts, all added to the vision.

Besides paying homage to surf culture, sports and streetwear influences equally merged with Williams’ modern-day LV dandyism. Skateboarding-style trainers were styled with suits and tailored trousers, and all sorts of baseball caps and hoodies were seen on most looks. Wearing a brown Vuitton wetsuit, one of the models walked the runway carrying a matching bike, also Louis Vuitton-themed.

Pharrell’s effortlessly upbeat, joyful ethos wasn’t left out of the show, now highlighted by his choice of colour and use of animal prints and textures, especially electric-hued crocodile and snake and classic leopard, the latter featured on a few trainers. Handbags in mini and maxi proportions naturally stood out, ranging from bubble-gum and hot pink to black-and-white chequered styles, the pattern also used on a knitted long cardigan.

Zooming in, micro-sequins promoted a glistening effect on wool vests, while patches were placed on jackets, nodding to skateboarding signifiers. Denim was doubled, embroidered, slightly faded and ripped on the hemline.

The Louis Vuitton leather trunks, a historical maison element and one of Williams’ revived signature pieces since the beginning of his tenure as menswear creative director back in 2023, appeared six times during the show. In different iterations, they were all carried by models wearing an ecru Louis Vuitton 'Équipe' uniform-style buttoned jacket, with one of the trunks featuring an underwater landscape. Diving into Vuitton’s spectacle is always a refreshing way to escape the heat.


Words by Ketlyn Araujo

SAINT LAURENT SS27

Anthony Vaccarello seduces easily. That much is expected. What remains interesting is how the designer continues to find new objects of desire. For Spring/Summer 2027, it wasn't spectacle or provocation that carried the collection forward, but the subtle interjection of masculinity.

The designer’s engagement with queerness has long been central to his work at the maison, especially as it pertains to menswear. In previous seasons, Vaccarello has referenced icons like Robert Mapplethorpe or even Yves Saint Laurent himself. This season, however, queerness surfaced less through explicit references than through the archive and the subtle reference of womenswear codes.

Classic tailoring provided the foundation. Gold buttons on sharply cut jackets were opulent, certainly, but they also carried a distinctly feminine charge. Elsewhere, jewelled embellishments twinkled across slim two and three button jackets, introducing softness into otherwise traditional silhouettes. At first glance, the pieces appeared conventionally masculine, but from a far, the little twinkling buttons relieved that pressure. The idea was reinterpreted in a tailored jacket adorned with a gilded button shaped like a spiky flower.

The push and pull of classic and playful is at the centre of Vaccarello’s work. Like womenswear before, sportswear becomes a means to that end. Pastel nylon parkas were tucked neatly into tailored trousers, reconsidering notions of informality. Granted, these were given the Saint Laurent treatment, with padded, rounded shoulders. Backstage, Vaccarello described sportswear as a new frontier.

Apropos of the heatwave that has come to define this season’s shows, the collection featured knitted and leather briefs. Perhaps not so appropriate for the heat, but equally as interesting, were the see-through derbies seen on multiple models. On the topic of footwear, elongated toeboxes and reptilian quarters were undeniably strong.

The show concluded with a trio of golden looks. A rounded-shouldered coat, a gleaming suit and a belted trench coat capped off the hottest show of the season – literally.


Words by Pedro Vasconcelos